Pillar bedding tubberware stock

[Buttermilk]

I attempted to do some improvements to a Rem SPS Varmint stock. I did it for two reasons. One was to use the stock to learn; the other was to buy some time until I could replace the stock.

I stiffened the stock forend using two broken carbon arrow shafts cut to proper length. I then dremeled out some grooves in the forend to accept the carbon shafts. I also attempted to provide some slots cut strategically in the forend for mechanical lock. Using JB Weld Plastic Bonder, I bedded these arrows into the forend. Pot life of this epoxy is only 15 minutes or so. Gotta work fast. The next day I cleaned up the epoxy. Looked okay and seemed to be holding to the plastic stock.

I then started prepping the stock for bedding to the action. Prepped the area around the recoil lug and made some slots for mechanical lock.

The area that supports the action was prepped by drilling some small holes for epoxy to fill and hopefully provide some mechanical lock.

I wanted to use some pillars, but this SPS stock doesn't have much area around the action screws due to the honeycomb structure for pillar diameter that is very large and would result in pillar walls that would be thinner than I'd prefer. So, no pillars.

After prepping the barreled action and cleaning the stock real well with soap and water chased by isopropyl alcohol, I used Kiwi brand neutral shoe polish for a release agent and put copious amounts of it on the action using a small paint brush and Qtips followed by a soft cloth polishing. Action screws also received a good coat of the polish.

Action holes were filled with clay prior to the Kiwi neutral shoe polish.

I bedded the stock using the same JB Weld Plastic Bonder. Had to work really fast! Very short pot life for this.

After allowing ample time for the epoxy to dry, the action was popped out of the stock.

Looked ok. However, there was on place where the epoxy did not want to stick to the stock. That area is a thin spot near the ejection port. Not much surface area there, and combined with the plastic stock's poor adhesion quality, it didn't stick good at that one location.

Would I do it again? Probably not. At least if I ruined this stock it wasn't a great loss, so I did it. Painted it afterwards so I could at least see something other than black plastic.

 

[Namibguy]

I attempted to do some improvements to a Rem SPS Varmint stock. I did it for two reasons. One was to use the stock to learn; the other was to buy some time until I could replace the stock.

I stiffened the stock forend using two broken carbon arrow shafts cut to proper length. I then dremeled out some grooves in the forend to accept the carbon shafts. I also attempted to provide some slots cut strategically in the forend for mechanical lock. Using JB Weld Plastic Bonder, I bedded these arrows into the forend. Pot life of this epoxy is only 15 minutes or so. Gotta work fast. The next day I cleaned up the epoxy. Looked okay and seemed to be holding to the plastic stock.

I then started prepping the stock for bedding to the action. Prepped the area around the recoil lug and made some slots for mechanical lock.

The area that supports the action was prepped by drilling some small holes for epoxy to fill and hopefully provide some mechanical lock.

I wanted to use some pillars, but this SPS stock doesn't have much area around the action screws due to the honeycomb structure for pillar diameter that is very large and would result in pillar walls that would be thinner than I'd prefer. So, no pillars.

After prepping the barreled action and cleaning the stock real well with soap and water chased by isopropyl alcohol, I used Kiwi brand neutral shoe polish for a release agent and put copious amounts of it on the action using a small paint brush and Qtips followed by a soft cloth polishing. Action screws also received a good coat of the polish.

Action holes were filled with clay prior to the Kiwi neutral shoe polish.

I bedded the stock using the same JB Weld Plastic Bonder. Had to work really fast! Very short pot life for this.

After allowing ample time for the epoxy to dry, the action was popped out of the stock.

Looked ok. However, there was on place where the epoxy did not want to stick to the stock. That area is a thin spot near the ejection port. Not much surface area there, and combined with the plastic stock's poor adhesion quality, it didn't stick good at that one location.

Would I do it again? Probably not. At least if I ruined this stock it wasn't a great loss, so I did it. Painted it afterwards so I could at least see something other than black plastic.
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Nice looks like a interesting experience

 

[6MM06AI]

I bought a cheap remmy 700 from wal-mart turned it into a 280 AI, and I thought I would experiment with that cheap plastic stock. I drilled out the screw holes, filled the holes with bedding compund bedded the recoil lug area. The rifle will make one big hole at a 100 yards. So sometimes that cheap remmy stock that weighs a pound can be made to shoot really good. It's now my favorite light weight hunting rifle.

 

[Stryker56]

I have a couple of the 700s with plastic stock. Two things I did with them; 1. remove the recoil pad and get some clear SILICONE caulk (silicone stays rubbery and doesn't harden). Fill the butt stock with the silicone gel. It deadens that hollow sound, and it really does knock down recoil. 2. I tried pillar bedding one stock. I got 1/2" washers, and drilled into the plastic far enough to get 5 washers stacked in. The washers stood a hair above the plastic. The barrel remained free floated, and it seemed to secure the action really well. The rifle shot great afterward. An experiment that seemed to work, although most likely unnecessary.

 

[Namibguy]

I bought a cheap remmy 700 from wal-mart turned it into a 280 AI, and I thought I would experiment with that cheap plastic stock. I drilled out the screw holes, filled the holes with bedding compund bedded the recoil lug area. The rifle will make one big hole at a 100 yards. So sometimes that cheap remmy stock that weighs a pound can be made to shoot really good. It's now my favorite light weight hunting rifle.

How big did you drill the screw holes before and after pouring in the bedding compound

I have a couple of the 700s with plastic stock. Two things I did with them; 1. remove the recoil pad and get some clear SILICONE caulk (silicone stays rubbery and doesn't harden). Fill the butt stock with the silicone gel. It deadens that hollow sound, and it really does knock down recoil. 2. I tried pillar bedding one stock. I got 1/2" washers, and drilled into the plastic far enough to get 5 washers stacked in. The washers stood a hair above the plastic. The barrel remained free floated, and it seemed to secure the action really well. The rifle shot great afterward. An experiment that seemed to work, although most likely unnecessary.

I might try the silicone thing

 

[DSheetz]

Namibguy , living in Namibia you are definitely at a disadvantage when it comes to getting parts for a fire arm . The import tax's and laws that regulate the shipping of , and importing of , firearms and parts as well as the shipping costs are defiantly high . We in the United States and other parts of the world are very fortunate to have the availability and lower costs of firearms and parts. I would shoot it first to see how well it preforms . Take into consideration that the stock that it came with , will bend and shift with any pressure on the fore arm of it . With these stocks you don't need to worry about them drying out or absorbing moisture with the changing weather . I don't know what ammo you have available to use but am thinking that it is most likely Nato surplus given the part of the world that you live in so if you get 1 moa for now that's not a bad start . What type of sighting system do you have for it ? At this time I think for me that would be more important then pillar bedding the stock and action . Tightening the action screws to the correct tightness for that type of stock is important also . Take your time and learn your firearm as it is for now you may be pleasantly surprised with it's performance as it is .

 

[Namibguy]

Namibguy , living in Namibia you are definitely at a disadvantage when it comes to getting parts for a fire arm . The import tax's and laws that regulate the shipping of , and importing of , firearms and parts as well as the shipping costs are defiantly high . We in the United States and other parts of the world are very fortunate to have the availability and lower costs of firearms and parts. I would shoot it first to see how well it preforms . Take into consideration that the stock that it came with , will bend and shift with any pressure on the fore arm of it . With these stocks you don't need to worry about them drying out or absorbing moisture with the changing weather . I don't know what ammo you have available to use but am thinking that it is most likely Nato surplus given the part of the world that you live in so if you get 1 moa for now that's not a bad start . What type of sighting system do you have for it ? At this time I think for me that would be more important then pillar bedding the stock and action . Tightening the action screws to the correct tightness for that type of stock is important also . Take your time and learn your firearm as it is for now you may be pleasantly surprised with it's performance as it is .

Thanks i appreciate your comment, we have most mainstream brands of ammo ill be reloading at a buddy of mine as they have all the equipment i just bought dies. By sighting system do you mean scope or something else? I have not bought scope i have save up some more im just to impatient to wait for the license to be processed before i asked questions. I want to pillar it because i was concerned that the stock squishing with make it difficult to torque the screws the correct amount.

 

[Rich Coyle]

Not the same brand but I had a Savage .223 with plastic stock that was a guaranteed 1/2" rifle for ten shots with nothing but a lightened trigger. Shoot it first.

 

[DSheetz]

Yes the sighting system is a scope or iron sights . The owners manual that comes with it should tell you what the proper torque is and with the factory torque it shouldn't squish the stock if it becomes a problem then you can take out a small amount of stock material and use a small flat washer under the screw area in the stock with a small amount of epoxy under them . It is good that you can reload and get good ammo you should be able to get your rifle to shoot under 1 moa with it as it is out of the box . Things have changed in your part of the world since I was there 50 years ago .

 

[tomsd]

As suggested several times - shoot it first. It might just be fine.

 

[jdyoung]

I don't think he can afford them. He's in Namibia.

Is Score High even allowed to ship outside the country ?

 

[6MM06AI]

How big did you drill the screw holes before and after pouring in the bedding compound
I might try the silicone thing

I drilled out the stock where action screws go through, filled the hole the bedding compund, waxed the screws and action really good and just pushed the screws through the compund and tightened them into the action. Make sure you put a release agent inside the action where the lugs of the bolt go into the action, because the screw will push the bedding compund into to the lug area. Good luck with your project.

 

[gohring3006]

Is there other rifle choices!
Savage?
Even the savage axis comes pillar bedded and is quite accurate out of the box. Most Remington I've had are hit and miss, most have been misses.

 

[bdyal1972]

Im buying my first rifle a 223 rem 700 and i do not have the funds to buy a new stock and probably wont for quite a while. I don't live in the US so even boyds stocks can get quite expensive. I was just wanted to know what you guyd would think about the idea of drilling a hole through a threaded rod and then heating it up(assuming i can keep it hot for long enough) and threading into the polymer stock to make the pillars since epoxy doesn't like sticking to those stocks. I just wanted to ask before potentially ruining a stock cant really replace at the moment.

When I got started in 93 with a browning a bolt II in 338 win mag with a flimsy crap Tupperware stock.

It shot moa or less if you didnt sling up, shoot from bipod on uneven ground or uneven stumps...

Otherwise hit or miss up to 5 moa off at 500 yards.

NOT KNOWING ANY BETTER!!! I took a piece of steel 5/8" wide x 1/8" thick and ran it from the front action bolt to the front sling stud. I took another piece FROM THE REAR ACTION BOLT AND CUT INTO THE PISTOL GRIP INSIDE THE PLASTIC TO KEEP IT LEVEL...

I used acraglass steel epoxy and bedded the ENTIRE LENGTH OF THE STOCK....

YES it was homely looking and totally shop made...

BUT IT WORKED..

I have since done this on Remington savage and winchester stocks...

It works great and allows bipod to be used in the field expeditiously if you tie he steel together with the sling stud threaded into it...

Make sure to use the strongest epoxy bedding you can find... I even used fiberglass steel body filler at a friends house...

Good luck!!!