Optic recommendation

That scope you sold me when I was up there with you, I just swapped it out for a Zeiss Conquest V4 6-24X50.
It is SFP (second focal plane) and a duplex crosshair, which I am more use to. The glass is better than my eyes deserve. I am giving the old scope to a friend to use on his Savage 338 Lapua. He is better with FFP than I am.
Makes good sense! It's what I use on my
.338 too.
 
I like others stating above am not a NF fan. I have a couple. The NX8 in my opinion are laid out terrible. First the tube is very short on the objective side--really only fit on rifles that have a full length rail. This is part and parcel to the tight eyebox. I wanted to like the 2x20--but with all the knocks against it once I shot behind it and looked at it--I have left that series of scopes alone.

I am a fan of any of these--I will state there are premium scopes that will out perform but all of these work for me in my setups

1. Maven RS.1.2--good scope, mounts well, decent eyebox, passable glass. But no illumination
https://mavenbuilt.com/collections/riflescopes/products/rs1-2-2-5-15x44-ffp
2. Tract toric 2x15-- good scope, I like the reticle, affordable price, my. Dislike is the turret is somewhat tall and bulky--but you get a lot of scope for your $$
https://tractoptics.com/toric-uhd-3...mrad-eagleman-long-range-hunting-rifle-scope/
3. Bushnell LRHS2. This is a value proposition here. Glass is ok, mounts wonderful, I learned to shoot long distances on this reticle so I like it. It's under 1k and I would trust it.

https://www.gaprecision.net/shop/ga...ell-lrhs-2-4-5-18-x-44-g2h-reticle-lrhs2.html
I will also say--I'm a hunter not much of a shooter--I prefer smaller objectives and like to mount lower to the rifle. I also like scopes sub 30oz. You try to build a rifle as trim as you can and then stick a porker of a scope on it--kind of ruins its appeal for me.

Good luck in your search
Thanks for the detailed response, very helpful.
 
I like others stating above am not a NF fan. I have a couple. The NX8 in my opinion are laid out terrible. First the tube is very short on the objective side--really only fit on rifles that have a full length rail. This is part and parcel to the tight eyebox. I wanted to like the 2x20--but with all the knocks against it once I shot behind it and looked at it--I have left that series of scopes alone.

I've never understood the appeal of ultra short scopes. There's simply better ways to cut weight than by making the scope shorter, and in my experience it doesn't affect the "handiness" of the gun but forces you to add weight elsewhere (full length rail) and the compromises made for that scope to exist are just too much. Love the ATACR Nightforces, I loved the NXS when they came out but they need a glass update to compete these days. And with that HUGE magnification range, with an emphasis on usability on the high end rather than the low end, the scope is completely unusable for me under 4-5x as the reticle is too thin and just disappears.

What I personally think would be the perfect do it all Nightforce scope (as the speciality ones are already covered)

ATACR glass, 3-15x42, ≈3mm larger ocular than current models, 4.5-4" eye relief (the larger ocular helps with visibility and FOV when going for longer eye relief), windage hashes only going to 6 or 8 mils on each side to have the big bars come closer to the reticle for finding your crosshair on minimum magnification, .5 MOA floating dot crosshair, overall length around 13" with several inches between the turret and the front bell to be able to mount on ANTI X style rails on magnum length actions with proper eye relief, and ability to move it forward or back to fit you.

Longer scopes always have better eye boxes because the angle the light comes out of the ocular is less extreme, so the human eye can focus it from closer and further distances more easily.

Longer eye relief also helps with this, keeping the light more in line with the scope. Longer eye relief also limits the potential for field of view, but at the combination of 3x and a slightly larger ocular you can make up a fair amount of both of those things, the only downside is potential bolt clearance and about 1-2 ounces. Generally not an issue except for on really low mounts and 90° bolt throw.

Also a larger magnifier (6x, 8x, 10x) has to start with a smaller image and blow it up more, so a 3-15 with the same glass have better clarity at 15x than a 1.5-15 will have at 15x. Stretching the limits of the optics is when you get more chromatic aberration, fuzzier images, and less color saturation and contrast. That's why the 4-16 ATACR is considered one of if not the highest quality Nightforce scope. With only a 4x multiplier and starting at 4x, it's not working the glass nearly as hard.

Sorry for the rant, but might be helpful for any other readers who don't know a lot about the physics of optics and why nothing you can do outside of glass grinding and coatings is ever "improving" an image, but rather prioritizing something else for a compromise. More durability is more weight, bigger zoom ratio means lower quality image and greater change in reticle thickness from min to max, shorter scopes are lighter but have tighter eye boxes, bigger objective bells have bigger eyeboxes but add both weight and necessary height to the rings, sacrificing cheek weld, larger tubes work the optics slightly less but at the cost of significant weight, etc etc.
 
I've never understood the appeal of ultra short scopes. There's simply better ways to cut weight than by making the scope shorter, and in my experience it doesn't affect the "handiness" of the gun but forces you to add weight elsewhere (full length rail) and the compromises made for that scope to exist are just too much. Love the ATACR Nightforces, I loved the NXS when they came out but they need a glass update to compete these days. And with that HUGE magnification range, with an emphasis on usability on the high end rather than the low end, the scope is completely unusable for me under 4-5x as the reticle is too thin and just disappears.

What I personally think would be the perfect do it all Nightforce scope (as the speciality ones are already covered)

ATACR glass, 3-15x42, ≈3mm larger ocular than current models, 4.5-4" eye relief (the larger ocular helps with visibility and FOV when going for longer eye relief), windage hashes only going to 6 or 8 mils on each side to have the big bars come closer to the reticle for finding your crosshair on minimum magnification, .5 MOA floating dot crosshair, overall length around 13" with several inches between the turret and the front bell to be able to mount on ANTI X style rails on magnum length actions with proper eye relief, and ability to move it forward or back to fit you.

Longer scopes always have better eye boxes because the angle the light comes out of the ocular is less extreme, so the human eye can focus it from closer and further distances more easily.

Longer eye relief also helps with this, keeping the light more in line with the scope. Longer eye relief also limits the potential for field of view, but at the combination of 3x and a slightly larger ocular you can make up a fair amount of both of those things, the only downside is potential bolt clearance and about 1-2 ounces. Generally not an issue except for on really low mounts and 90° bolt throw.

Also a larger magnifier (6x, 8x, 10x) has to start with a smaller image and blow it up more, so a 3-15 with the same glass have better clarity at 15x than a 1.5-15 will have at 15x. Stretching the limits of the optics is when you get more chromatic aberration, fuzzier images, and less color saturation and contrast. That's why the 4-16 ATACR is considered one of if not the highest quality Nightforce scope. With only a 4x multiplier and starting at 4x, it's not working the glass nearly as hard.

Sorry for the rant, but might be helpful for any other readers who don't know a lot about the physics of optics and why nothing you can do outside of glass grinding and coatings is ever "improving" an image, but rather prioritizing something else for a compromise. More durability is more weight, bigger zoom ratio means lower quality image and greater change in reticle thickness from min to max, shorter scopes are lighter but have tighter eye boxes, bigger objective bells have bigger eyeboxes but add both weight and necessary height to the rings, sacrificing cheek weld, larger tubes work the optics slightly less but at the cost of significant weight, etc etc.
Thank you, that is great information.
 
I've never understood the appeal of ultra short scopes. There's simply better ways to cut weight than by making the scope shorter, and in my experience it doesn't affect the "handiness" of the gun but forces you to add weight elsewhere (full length rail) and the compromises made for that scope to exist are just too much. Love the ATACR Nightforces, I loved the NXS when they came out but they need a glass update to compete these days. And with that HUGE magnification range, with an emphasis on usability on the high end rather than the low end, the scope is completely unusable for me under 4-5x as the reticle is too thin and just disappears.

What I personally think would be the perfect do it all Nightforce scope (as the speciality ones are already covered)

ATACR glass, 3-15x42, ≈3mm larger ocular than current models, 4.5-4" eye relief (the larger ocular helps with visibility and FOV when going for longer eye relief), windage hashes only going to 6 or 8 mils on each side to have the big bars come closer to the reticle for finding your crosshair on minimum magnification, .5 MOA floating dot crosshair, overall length around 13" with several inches between the turret and the front bell to be able to mount on ANTI X style rails on magnum length actions with proper eye relief, and ability to move it forward or back to fit you.

Longer scopes always have better eye boxes because the angle the light comes out of the ocular is less extreme, so the human eye can focus it from closer and further distances more easily.

Longer eye relief also helps with this, keeping the light more in line with the scope. Longer eye relief also limits the potential for field of view, but at the combination of 3x and a slightly larger ocular you can make up a fair amount of both of those things, the only downside is potential bolt clearance and about 1-2 ounces. Generally not an issue except for on really low mounts and 90° bolt throw.

Also a larger magnifier (6x, 8x, 10x) has to start with a smaller image and blow it up more, so a 3-15 with the same glass have better clarity at 15x than a 1.5-15 will have at 15x. Stretching the limits of the optics is when you get more chromatic aberration, fuzzier images, and less color saturation and contrast. That's why the 4-16 ATACR is considered one of if not the highest quality Nightforce scope. With only a 4x multiplier and starting at 4x, it's not working the glass nearly as hard.

Sorry for the rant, but might be helpful for any other readers who don't know a lot about the physics of optics and why nothing you can do outside of glass grinding and coatings is ever "improving" an image, but rather prioritizing something else for a compromise. More durability is more weight, bigger zoom ratio means lower quality image and greater change in reticle thickness from min to max, shorter scopes are lighter but have tighter eye boxes, bigger objective bells have bigger eyeboxes but add both weight and necessary height to the rings, sacrificing cheek weld, larger tubes work the optics slightly less but at the cost of significant weight, etc etc.
The 4-16 42 or 50 mm objective?
 
I took a Zeiss conquest off a friend's rifle yesterday. Every time he pulled the trigger the impact climbed 3/4-1" at 100yds. Took the rings loose off the Anti-X rails. Everything was tight.

For simplicity sake I put a very well worn 12-42NXS on it, in NF rings and shot a 3/4" triangle. Just sayin…
 
The 4-16 42 or 50 mm objective?
I prefer the low mounting potential of the 42. "Technically" the 50 will give you a bigger eyebox due to the slightly larger exit pupil, and less edge deformity when maxing out your dial up, but the 42 is literally so good, and the difference is so small; that behind the scope is bet you could not tell a difference during legal shooting hours.
 
I prefer the low mounting potential of the 42. "Technically" the 50 will give you a bigger eyebox due to the slightly larger exit pupil, and less edge deformity when maxing out your dial up, but the 42 is literally so good, and the difference is so small; that behind the scope is bet you could not tell a difference during legal shooting hours.
Just have to be careful with mounting some scopes as low as possible. With Zeiss especially, the fat magnification ring is too large to clear a 90* bolt throw on a lot of actions when mounting even a 50mm objective in low rings. There are a few others that do the same thing, so a 40-44mm objective gives no benefit for mounting it lower sometimes. You also have to make sure the magnification throw ring does not hit the rail.
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Nice and low w. .87" rings...bolt handle doesn't clear
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Go to .97" rings, and barely clears, but it clears
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Also, some scopes like Swarovski and SChmitt & Bender have a big turret bell and will not clear a full length Picatinny rail in low rings. So you end up having to either: 1. Mount it in taller rings, or 2. Mill down the Picatinny risers in the center section of the rail.
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I had the same issue with a rifle I built using a Kelbly Atlas Lite with low Long Range Hybrid rings, using an Arken EPL-4. Ended up sending back in exchange for the High rings, even then the 90 degree bolt barely missed the magnification ring.
 
Just have to be careful with mounting some scopes as low as possible. With Zeiss especially, the fat magnification ring is too large to clear a 90* bolt throw on a lot of actions when mounting even a 50mm objective in low rings. There are a few others that do the same thing, so a 40-44mm objective gives no benefit for mounting it lower sometimes. You also have to make sure the magnification throw ring does not hit the rail.
View attachment 711969
View attachment 711970
Nice and low w. .87" rings...bolt handle doesn't clear
View attachment 711971
View attachment 711972
Go to .97" rings, and barely clears, but it clears
View attachment 711973
View attachment 711974

Also, some scopes like Swarovski and SChmitt & Bender have a big turret bell and will not clear a full length Picatinny rail in low rings. So you end up having to either: 1. Mount it in taller rings, or 2. Mill down the Picatinny risers in the center section of the rail.
View attachment 711967
View attachment 711968

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Yep, the 50mm will be slightly heavier though even when mounted high, for those who care about weight.

Personally, I'm a fan of the negative comb and negative drop at heel stocks that let you mount the scope higher, and get the recoil more in line with the shoulder for less muzzle rise. But most people aren't using those yet.

There's also a slight benefit to depth of field (amount of distance at a time that can be in focus with reticle) with smaller objective lenses, although they make caps that effectively stop down larger objectives to have the same effect. I forget what they're called at the moment.
 
I have owned S&B PMII, Premier Reticle, Swarovski, Zeiss, Steiner, Vortex, Nightforce, and Tract. My favorite scopes for hunting rifles are NF ATACR 4-16x42 and Toric Tract 2.5-15x42. The NF is an amazing scope. The optical quality is quite good. There is a very nice snipers hide comparison between it, a Steiner 3-18x56, March 4.5-28x54, and a Schmidt and bender 3-20. Others have mentioned the toric. The ergonomics are great. Glass is not as nice as NF (not even close) however it is quite acceptable. If you have old eye like me you will especially like their turrets.
 
Just have to be careful with mounting some scopes as low as possible. With Zeiss especially, the fat magnification ring is too large to clear a 90* bolt throw on a lot of actions when mounting even a 50mm objective in low rings. There are a few others that do the same thing, so a 40-44mm objective gives no benefit for mounting it lower sometimes. You also have to make sure the magnification throw ring does not hit the rail.
View attachment 711969
View attachment 711970
Nice and low w. .87" rings...bolt handle doesn't clear
View attachment 711971
View attachment 711972
Go to .97" rings, and barely clears, but it clears
View attachment 711973
View attachment 711974

Also, some scopes like Swarovski and SChmitt & Bender have a big turret bell and will not clear a full length Picatinny rail in low rings. So you end up having to either: 1. Mount it in taller rings, or 2. Mill down the Picatinny risers in the center section of the rail.
View attachment 711967
View attachment 711968

View attachment 711980
View attachment 711981
Great tip, thank you. Something I would have never known to consider.
 
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