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Magnification for 500yrd and less

arawls88

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 9, 2012
Messages
303
Location
Louisiana
While I would love to mount a big ol 5.5x20, is there really any need? Would say a 4x12 or something do the job just as well? I want to buy one scope, the right scope, the first time, as my budget allows one purchase of a quality scope.
 
Most people over-scope... mistakenly thinking that they'll shoot more accurately with more scope power. This is rarely the case...

You could quarter anything worth shooting at with a 9 power scope at 700 yards... all you have to be able to do is quarter the target, and you can make a good shot.

I actually bring out a 4 power scoped Savage .270 at our local 1000 yard matches, and at our long range school--just to show people that you can hit a 24" plate at 1000 yards with a lowly little old 4 power scope.

I'd much rather have better glass and lower magnification than to blow the budget on a big zoom scope that's low on clarity.

Dan
 
I wouldn't even go up to 4-12x.

Any of the selectables should work. 4x, 6x, 3-9x, 2-7x, etc.

You'll shoot better with a good scope with lower magnification than with a lower quality scope in high magnification.

Take the money you save and buy more pills and powder, and shoot and shoot and shoot. You can reach out further than 500 if you want to.
 
I shoot better "over scoped" FOR ME: that is a fact. May not apply to everyone but for me it is true even at close range. Started with 3-9 and got noticeably better with a 4-12 and holy cow I can drive tacks with a 6-24. That being said: Q: Necessary? A: NO, I can effectively engage a high contrast target 12" in diameter at 1200 meters with a 4x fixed 24mm objective scope. I would much rather do it with a 24x 50mm scope but it can be done. Now I can't even see bullet holes in white board at 100 with that 4x scope but I can aim well enough to shoot. If you want the smallest groups: the magnification can help, If you want to spot the hits in paper at 300 without a spotting scope: the magnification can help. If you want enough to get it done: It really does not take much. If your likely to be shooting at running animals at 50 yards 6-24 is not going to be your best option. Quality is going to be necessary in any scope in order to be trustworthy. Magnification is just a side note based on preference and intended purpose.
 
i can understand the last post, my groups got better with more scope power too.
iv got a 6-24x50. its great. i use all the power, especially shooting paper. i find my target then zoom right in. (thats paper and any long range shots)
in saying that, im sure you can get by without it, but i wont be going back. and situations like thick bush, or shooting any close game, id never use that much power.
 
Most people over-scope... mistakenly thinking that they'll shoot more accurately with more scope power. This is rarely the case...

You could quarter anything worth shooting at with a 9 power scope at 700 yards... all you have to be able to do is quarter the target, and you can make a good shot.

I actually bring out a 4 power scoped Savage .270 at our local 1000 yard matches, and at our long range school--just to show people that you can hit a 24" plate at 1000 yards with a lowly little old 4 power scope.

I'd much rather have better glass and lower magnification than to blow the budget on a big zoom scope that's low on clarity.

Dan
Dan, could you explain to me what you mean by "quartering the target".

To the OP, for me, doing load development at 100 yards with anything less than or equal to 9x is tough and unpleasant. I would much rather buy a 6.5x20, 5.5x22, or 6x24 scope just because load development is much easier and precise for me. I definatly shoot better with more mag. power. I think it would be a good idea to buy one high zoom scope for load development then put whichever scope and magnifacation range you desire, if you do load development for a lot of rifles like i do.

Riley
 
Quartering just means that you cut the target into quarters with the reticle's intersection.

If one has the cash for a high dollar scope which remains clear at high power, it can certainly be useful... even for assessing mirage for wind detection.

But when you're trying to keep the price down, lower magnification and better glass is best.

Dan
 
My take on a high power scope is, the higher the magnification, the more steady you have to be. No issue with a bi-pod or a rest but a big issue shooting off hand in the woods. I keep mine turned down for that reason. I have big magnification, I rarey use it. Besides, the higher power you run (ocular), the tighter the eye box becomes. I still like my 3-9's, it's just that the 25X or better top end maks a spotter less of a necessity (for me).

Like having a Cadillac with a corette engine (I have one btw). It does over 170 flat out but I'll never use it's full potential. It's just having it there, makes it worthwhile owning it. Same applies to a scope for me.....and the STSV looks the part too.:D

I geuss it all distills down to what a person can afford and what they want....

After all, you can always turn down the magnification on a scope but a low power scope, you can't turn up..................:)
 
A mile from the truck and spotting scope we spotted a nice buck way down in the bottom of a drainage and we hiked down steep terrain about 3/4 of a mile to get a better look at the buck bedded in the bottom. 8x binoculars, my 9x scope, partner's 10x scope=looked like a real nice buck. Got down there to shooting distance and it was a doe , We spent most of the day getting down and back up to get a better look at him........er.....Her. We decided we needed to start packing the spotter, I bought my first hi power rifle scope that winter. Turning up the magnification to see how shaky I really am and how to correct it, spotting mirage, spotting hits at the range, aiming more precisely, making sure that buck is worth going down there for. I will never go back.
 
Yes it does SHOW it more at high power but you can't fix a problem if you can't see or identify it as a problem. I know seeing it has made me a better and steadier shooter and as pointed out earlier just because you have a high end does not mean you always have to use it at max magnification.
 
i have a .450 marlin and 30-06 for brush guns that are very effective. this setup will never be used in anything under 200 yrds. we have several shooting lanes and log roads that are up to a mile long, not that i would take a shot that far. ive been looking at the huskemaw scopes and notice only $400 difference between the 3-12 and the 20x scope and it made me wonder if it was really necessary for the high mag. i believe ill go with the higher and keep it on reserve. thx
 
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