Lube in necks

On my 308 Win I've left One Shot in the case necks. Now I went back to Imperial Sizing Wax so I tumble in cob media for a half hour to clean out the necks. I imagine a soap based sloution in a ultrasonic cleaner would clean them out just fine. One note I went away from cleaning cases with solution because I got pressures early one time. I wondered if the decrease in "lubricity" happened. I never figured it out so I'll probably try the ultrasonic brass cleaning again in the future.
Come on now.....that's " SLIPICITY" not Lubricity....say it right! 🤣😉
 
I have yet to lube any part of the case when reloading even on 300bo or 357sig. Those 2 are neck and shoulder sensitive! I've been reloading since '84.
 
Another thread got me thinking about this. Been reloading 30 years but still learning from the vast expanse of knowledge from guys who also load a lot.

I started cleaning the lube out of the necks after an incident with my 470 NE double when the bullet in the second barrel had moved forward from the recoil of two shots from the first barrel (shoot, reload first barrel, shoot again) It was jammed into the lands. Since I was hunting, this could have been a real problem if I needed the second barrel.

My 375 H&H round has a cannelure, so I suppose I could leave the lube in. But I have had other rounds without a cannelure pushed back in the case from recoil after topping off the mag and shooting a few times.

At what point on the "recoil scale" is lube in the necks a bad idea? 300 win mag and up? 7 mag? A light 30-06?

Curious now what others do.
Crimp
 
I would have asked this very question, but my quota of dumb questions was met a while ago. (It's actually a really good question).

My reasoning is that powder sticks to the inside of the lubed necks. A lubed bullet wouldn't have that problem.
Hornady one shot down on a 45° angle from both sides does lube the neck it will dry in just a minute or two ,says right on the Can will not contaminate powder.
 
For my hunting rounds in lower recoil calibres I always lightly crimp with a Lee collet factory crimp die in the belief (possibly misguided) that it contributes to :
  • a more consistent release pressure from the case
  • a more consistent, more "centered" loaded round (due to the technique used)
For the larger calibres I crimp more firmly to achieve the same as above plus to make it resistant to movement due to recoil and or magazine bump. The Lee die can even create a cannelure in the projectile where there was not one.

Very interested to hear if anyone has evidence to show me that I am deluding myself and wasting my time.
 
For my hunting rounds in lower recoil calibres I always lightly crimp with a Lee collet factory crimp die in the belief (possibly misguided) that it contributes to :
  • a more consistent release pressure from the case
  • a more consistent, more "centered" loaded round (due to the technique used)
For the larger calibres I crimp more firmly to achieve the same as above plus to make it resistant to movement due to recoil and or magazine bump. The Lee die can even create a cannelure in the projectile where there was not one.

Very interested to hear if anyone has evidence to show me that I am deluding myself and wasting my time.
I think any attempt to be consistent in loading and shooting leads to consistent results. However, we all know some variables lead to bad groups and only you can tell us about the results of crimp vs no crimp in your gun.
 
I think any attempt to be consistent in loading and shooting leads to consistent results. However, we all know some variables lead to bad groups and only you can tell us about the results of crimp vs no crimp in your gun.
I don't lube necks anymore because I use bushing dies without the expander and then crimp after seating . I leave the residue from the fired round inside the neck so it acts as a natural lube with one pass through the neck with a neck brush before seating . With a bushing die you can set for more neck tension and then crimp . On one of my A.R.s the bullet will move forward .010 when it chambers from inertia if I don't crimp . I would not leave case lube in the neck for any reason due too possible primer contamination.
 
Well, I loaded up my 10 rounds lubed with graphite and have my non-lubed rounds ready to roll

One interesting thing to note is that on graphite lubed necks, the bullet seated 2.795. Non-lubed seated at 2.805. .01 difference. That could actually be significant enough to effect accuracy.

Well, bullets are expensive, so I'm just going to run the test as is.
 
I size with die wax on a bushing die w/o expander button then use graphite lube on an expander mandrel to open necks to .002 bullet pull. Then I trim, chamfer, debur. I worry that the brass chips will stick to the lube so I scrub the necks inside with a nylon brush followed by 10 minutes in my Hornady Hot Tub ultrasonic with hornady brass cleaner juice. I towel dry followed by an hour In a cheap jerky machine at 95-degrees before reloading.
 
Well, I loaded up my 10 rounds lubed with graphite and have my non-lubed rounds ready to roll

One interesting thing to note is that on graphite lubed necks, the bullet seated 2.795. Non-lubed seated at 2.805. .01 difference. That could actually be significant enough to effect accuracy.

Well, bullets are expensive, so I'm just going to run the test as is.
That shows you how much easier the bullet went in, You should have also felt the expander pull out of the case neck much easier.
 
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