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Lube in necks

Buffalobwana

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 11, 2022
Messages
584
Location
Texas
Another thread got me thinking about this. Been reloading 30 years but still learning from the vast expanse of knowledge from guys who also load a lot.

I started cleaning the lube out of the necks after an incident with my 470 NE double when the bullet in the second barrel had moved forward from the recoil of two shots from the first barrel (shoot, reload first barrel, shoot again) It was jammed into the lands. Since I was hunting, this could have been a real problem if I needed the second barrel.

My 375 H&H round has a cannelure, so I suppose I could leave the lube in. But I have had other rounds without a cannelure pushed back in the case from recoil after topping off the mag and shooting a few times.

At what point on the "recoil scale" is lube in the necks a bad idea? 300 win mag and up? 7 mag? A light 30-06?

Curious now what others do.
 
On my 308 Win I've left One Shot in the case necks. Now I went back to Imperial Sizing Wax so I tumble in cob media for a half hour to clean out the necks. I imagine a soap based sloution in a ultrasonic cleaner would clean them out just fine. One note I went away from cleaning cases with solution because I got pressures early one time. I wondered if the decrease in "lubricity" happened. I never figured it out so I'll probably try the ultrasonic brass cleaning again in the future.
 
I never heard of bullets slipping into the case from recoil. The law of physics/inertia would make this impossible. Coming out of the case yes. The only way I can see this happening is that the magazine doesn't hold the cartridges tight enough and upon recoil they stay in "place" as the rifle drives back and the front of the magazine hits the nose of the bullet. I've been using Hornady One Shot since it came out and spray my cases at a 45* angle so as to get it into the neck. First one side then rotate the tray and do the other side.
The only thing I would suggest is a slight roll crimp to help hold the bullet(s). The heaviest round I shoot is a stout 45-70 in my 1895 Guide Gun with 405 gr bullets and I roll crimp and don't have an issue even with this being a tube fed rifle. A roll crimp should hold the bullet as it would bite into the bullet as it tried to go deeper in the case.
 
I never heard of bullets slipping into the case from recoil. The law of physics/inertia would make this impossible. Coming out of the case yes. The only way I can see this happening is that the magazine doesn't hold the cartridges tight enough and upon recoil they stay in "place" as the rifle drives back and the front of the magazine hits the nose of the bullet. I've been using Hornady One Shot since it came out and spray my cases at a 45* angle so as to get it into the neck. First one side then rotate the tray and do the other side.
The only thing I would suggest is a slight roll crimp to help hold the bullet(s). The heaviest round I shoot is a stout 45-70 in my 1895 Guide Gun with 405 gr bullets and I roll crimp and don't have an issue even with this being a tube fed rifle. A roll crimp should hold the bullet as it would bite into the bullet as it tried to go deeper in the case.
Yeah the cannelure, and/or a crimp should prevent bullet "migration", which is why you would always want to crimp a 30-30 or 45-70 as a tube fed gun would be most prone to it.

I have had bullets get pushed into the case from repeated recoil of a heavy recoiling gun. If you top off your mag after every round or two, it can happen to some of the rounds below it.

Thus, the question, does anyone clean the lube out of the neck?
 
I guess if I were shooting a double rifle with multiple "single shots", I would just try to remember to rotate the round from the unfired barrel into the other during a reload. As a guy who carries a defensive pistol, and also practices with it frequently(loading and unloading the premium carry ammo), I am cognizant of the movement of the "hot round" that gets slammed into the chamber by closing the slide. This is far more important in a pistol as a few thousandths in seating depth can have huge impacts on pressures.
 
Done a lot of experimenting on lube in neck. my sequence is Hornady 1 shot while resizing for easy resizing of brass and when I reload I use imperial wax on inside the case neck. If its really hard to resize the brass I use the imperoal resizing wax. Little goes along ways.
i use .003th bullet pinch on the bullet.
with that, the largest caliber I reload for is 300 win mag or PRC with 215 Berger's.
never had a bullet move with that amount of bullet pinch.
 
Well, now I am curious how lube effects accuracy, muzzle velocity, SD. So, I loaded 10 Accubonds with One Shot inside the neck. I want to chrono them against 10 w/o Lube in the neck.

I must be a bit starved for excitement if this "does it" for me.

Hey, it's hot, nothing to hunt … don't judge me.
 
Well, now I am curious how lube effects accuracy, muzzle velocity, SD. So, I loaded 10 Accubonds with One Shot inside the neck. I want to chrono them against 10 w/o Lube in the neck.

I must be a bit starved for excitement if this "does it" for me.

Hey, it's hot, nothing to hunt … don't judge me.
I like the way you think
Tagging along
 
So, I loaded 12 rounds of 6.5 Creedmoor 140 gr Accubond after spraying a good amount of Lube in the neck. The results were very good, to say the least. Four 3 shot groups. Smallest was .325" largest was .475". This load, previously, wasn't a consistent winner either. It is now.

The 10 rounds of 300 win mag were just ok. No improvement, but I think I have to find the right load and/or seating depth. Still working on this one, but I'm sold on lubing the necks.
 
On heavy recoilers without a crimp, I do not leave lube in the necks, and most of the time, I use mica and a brush to dry lube before sizing. I do have a cannelure tool, so most of the time and if I can, I place one on the bullets to aid crimping.

On cartridges of lower recoil and with the various drying spray lubes, I do not bother to remove the lube. The exceptions would be my BR loads, and here, I tend to use mica or graphite to aid in consistent tension/release.
 
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