Load development for ruger American 22-250

[Koda_]

Another thing, run a cleaning rod down the barrel and double check you actually are getting the twist rate -exactly- as shown. Its worth double checking.

 

[thomasbangs]

All information previously mentioned has it's merits. I am sure that a shooter new to reloading is overwhelmed with all of this valid information. Here is a new twist to the equation that I found out when working up a load years ago for my 220 Swift which also had a slow twist (1 in 14). I was searching for that sub MOA group and was having a hard time finding it. The Speer 55 gr SP (# 1047) does not have as great a BC as some of the newer missile pointed bullets but I could get 3/4 inch 5 shot groups at 100 yards with it, it is shorter and a little bit stubby compared to bullets with a higher BC but the more bearing surface I believe adds to the accuracy in rifles with a slower twist rate. My Swift also shoots 1 inch 5 shot groups with the Hornady 55gr V - Max with a higher BC, the Speer is just a little bit better.

 

[PrecisionRx]

All very good comments, but one thing to consider in reloading is consistant shot-to-shot velocity. You might want to put getting a chronograph on your list as you start doing load development. Otherwise, changes you make in powder, bullets, primers, and cases becomes hit or miss. (bad pun).

 

[PApa Black]

The lead sled is worse than just scope failures. It also broke my recoil pad on a 458 Lott. It can break stocks, bedding, numerous issues. Not to mention it is horrible for developing good bench technique.

Most of this comes from a conservation of momentum, force application to a moveable object viewpoint. Basically, how much force can you apply to a Kia bumper before it moves vs an F350.

What happens is that recoil impulse gets split into force applied through the rifle and rifle movement. We want the gun to move, under recoil, when the gun fires similarly in the bags and in the field.

Now, you are talking 22-250. You probably won't break anything….but will your zero be different?…yep will your groups change, yep….at least in my experience. I'd much rather see you, or me, shooting off a rock solid leather, sand filled, dry, lubed FR & RR rest with a light contact to the shoulder.



Those too can be tricky as they are not well dampened, but if it fits and you like it, it should work.



According to Hodgdon, they recommend a range between 36 - 38.2gr(please check the data yourself) with IMR 4350, 70gr Speer SP @ 2.330". Did you try anything in this range? Your bullet is a tad longer, I would bet so you will likely see pressure over 37.7gr. At 0.02" off the lands, I would guess you might be long enough to not see that pressure point.

I guess I'm saying is there a higher node that is better?

10-4 on ["Basically, how much force can you apply to a Kia bumper before it moves vs an F350."]

 

[Wallie]

Can you elaborate I little more on the scope failures? Considering 22-250 recoil is virtually non existent. Not arguing with you at all. Genuinely interested.

The problem with a lead sled besides being very hard on the internals of scopes due to recoil inertia is harmonics.
If you picture your barrel as a tuning fork that vibrates when you smack it in the rear with a small controlled explosion, and the goal is for the muzzle to be pointing in exactly the same spot at the instant the bullet exits from shot to shot, fixing a 30 lb weight to a tuning fork is DRAMATICALLY going to change its vibrations. The chances of fixing the 30 lb weight to your rifle exactly the same way every time is low, so it will probably dramatically change your barrel harmonics differently from shot to shot.

Even if you do find a load that shoots well that way, when you take the rifle out of the lead sled you have a very different 30 lbs lighter rifle that almost certainly won't shoot that load the same.

Your best bet on this front is to develop your load in the same manner that you intend to use your rifle, like use a bipod if you plan on shooting prone, or set it on front and rear bags on a bench, but have the only thing holding the rifles rearward movement being your shoulder.

 

[cmysix]

go to the lands and come back five thou and then 2 thou at a time when working the seating depth

 

[hesse]

Mine is. 1 to 12 twist pac nor 26 inch barrel. I am using h380 powder (I don't give powder charge). I am using 55grain vmax

 

[Idaho Lefty]

Lead sled is a problem. They are notorious for causing scope failures. You need a front rest and sandbags.
You should be able to get the IMR 4350 to work but you need to experiment with the seating depths.

THIS,.. ^^^ Gary in Md.,.. "Knows his, Chit" ! I'd Ditch,.. the Sled,.. FAST !!!
Get an Adjustable Front Rest and, a Rabbit Ears,.. LEATHER rear, rest !
38 grains of, IMR 4350 shoots, 2 different, short length, 60 grain, Bullets just Fine ( Sub 1/2 MOA ), in My 1-14 Twist, .22-250 Rem.
STAY with 35.3 grains of 4350 and,..
Adjust Bullets,.. in ( Touching ) & out about, 015 to .020 per try, THEN "Fine Tune" .003 to .005,.. IF,.. Necessary.
An "Accuracy Load" CAN be Found Quickly, using this, Method.
Sierra MK's "Usually" like, a "Lite Jam" ( .015 long, Square Marks, on Bullet ),.. in my Short Free bore, Rifles.
Good Luck !

 

[436]

Hello guys, I'm a newbie to reloading and I'm trying to get some heavier bullets for my 22-250. All the factory ammo I can find is 55gr and with the 1:10 twist of the ruger American I'd like to shoot the 69gr sierra matchkings. Sierra says 1:10 or faster so I figured I was on the right track. I was able to find IMR 4350 on the shelves at most local stores so I'd really like to make that work.

I looked up sierras load data for 69gr mk's and it shows a range of 5 different powder charges, so I loaded 5 rnds of each charge and went shoot.

All once fired nosler brass fully prepped and sized, seated .020 off the lands. CCI large rifle BR primers.

So 35.3gr shot the best. 5rnds @ 100yds 1" group. I went up a grain and it looks like the group opened up. I went down a grain a still no improvement.

I've tried weighing the bullets for consistency, measuring all the brass for uniformity and still not getting better than a 1" group.

Is there something else I can do to improve my load or should I abandon the IMR 4350 and try another powder? Or a lighter bullet?

Lots of good info on the subject matter from others. From my end, I used an outstanding como in my Weatherby Varmintmaster 26" barrel in .22-250 for years, using the Sierra GK bullets, 65gr. spitzer BT manufacture #: 1395, with IMR4064, Federal 210 primers. The load is from the Sierra manual edition #: VI I using their load of (32.4grs) of IMR4064 in a 24" test barrel it shows 3200 fps but, in my 26" barrel I got 3370 respectively, the accuracy was amazing in a 1-12" twist. I also shot that bullet in the 1-9" & 1-7" twist rifles (.223 Rem) with great performance. Good luck... Cheers

 

[Calvin45]

All information previously mentioned has it's merits. I am sure that a shooter new to reloading is overwhelmed with all of this valid information. Here is a new twist to the equation that I found out when working up a load years ago for my 220 Swift which also had a slow twist (1 in 14). I was searching for that sub MOA group and was having a hard time finding it. The Speer 55 gr SP (# 1047) does not have as great a BC as some of the newer missile pointed bullets but I could get 3/4 inch 5 shot groups at 100 yards with it, it is shorter and a little bit stubby compared to bullets with a higher BC but the more bearing surface I believe adds to the accuracy in rifles with a slower twist rate. My Swift also shoots 1 inch 5 shot groups with the Hornady 55gr V - Max with a higher BC, the Speer is just a little bit better.

I played with a 220 swift 1:14 twist a while ago. Picky eater! It was incredibly accurate so long as you only fed it 55 grain flat base bullets propelled by 4064.

 

[Idaho Lefty]

YUP,. 1-14 Twists can be "Picky" but there ARE lots of Combo's that will,.. "Work".
Key Point is to, Keep, the Bullets,. UNDER,.. .800 Long !

 

[trapper1954]

All very good comments, but one thing to consider in reloading is consistant shot-to-shot velocity. You might want to put getting a chronograph on your list as you start doing load development. Otherwise, changes you make in powder, bullets, primers, and cases becomes hit or miss. (bad pun).

I think yall that maybe its time for a little talk about weighed vs thrown. I throw all my powder.

 

[YZ-80]

Good comments. Varget and 4064 were always my go to powders for my 700 VLS, my Wby. Varmint master (Japanese) and my old B-78 but I no longer own any of them. I can see where the Lead Sled might be hard on scopes, creating an unforgiving recoil impact. I guess its kind of like comparing the impact of a 22 oz. Framing hammer with that of a rubber mallet. Anyway I have been using this "Dog-Gone-Good" sand bag for about a decade now in conjunction with a rear sandbag and I really like it. It's a pain to lug to the range but very stable. I hope your .22-250 reloading oddesey goes well. It's a great cartridge.

 

[Songdoger]

I worked up a load for a friends Ruger American 22" bbl in 22-250 using 69 smk's that shot sub 1".640". 5 shot. 36g CFE223 with 2.360"OAL at 3237 fps. Went up to 37gr at 3325fps and still grouped well but not as good and seemed a bit hot on 75* day. With the IMR 4350 I would try 36.6-36.8 grs at 2.360 OAL. Accuracy seemed to be best for 22" barrel when 69 smks were running 3200-3250 fps. There is enough twist in 1-10 at 3100+ fps. It's more about RPMs to stabilize bullets. I stabilized 80 JLK's in a 1-9 22CHeetah at 3470fps out to 1000 yd. Your 22/250 will be spinning 69 smks at 232,200 RPMs at 3200 fps in 10 twist bbl. Formula is Velocity X12 divided by twist X 60