Just bought 4 Rem 783's for $199 each!

The barrel I'm looking at is exactly 1 inch at the muzzle.




Man... I've flip flopped on the caliber choices too many times. I had an easier time picking out the names for my kids. I do think at least one of them will end up a 6.5-284.

I actually have sold 2 of these rifles (for a healthy profit). So I have 2 to modify and play with. I'm still quite happy with these rifles for an inexpensive firearm to play with and modify. Only sold 2 of them because I knew 2 guys that really wanted to buy them from me. So I'll just put that money towards the other 2 I still have.




Thanks. :)
Personally I would not want a barrel that heavy if it's a rifle you plan to carry. You're probably looking at well over 10lbs even without a scope and mounts. My Sendero's and VSSFII are right around 14, 14, and 12lbs if I remember right and my heavy 1999 with the long Med Palma barrel I think is right around 16lbs.

If that barrel is stright (no taper) and basically 1" down it's full length it's probably going to come in somewhere between 12-14lbs but that's just a guess and of course that's figuring on 28" length.

You can look at different barrel manufacturers spec sheets and they'll tell you the approximate weight per inch or finished lengths.

For a rig you plan to carry, particularly in any kind of rough/steep terrain or for long pack in's I'd look at something no heavier than a standard bull magnum contour which finishes at about .75" at the muzzle. The sendero is about .825 and in equal length barrels the weight difference is noticeable.
 
I'm getting ready to order a barrel for one of these from Northland. I do have some questions I'm hoping you guys can help with.

I'm going to order a bull barrel (this rifle will not be a hunting rifle). Right now I'm thinking 28 inches. Would a 28 inch bull barrel put too much stress on the receiver from the added weight? Are there any special precautions guys take when using heavy barrels like that?

I've read that if you order a 28 inch barrel it will actually come somewhat shorter once it's finished. Is that always the case? How about with the Criterion Pre-Fit barrels?

Thanks!

I got a Criterion from Northland for the 783 at 25" in a Lite Varmint contour. It's a good fit for the Boyds stock you have. I suspect a Bull Barrel will require hogging out the barrel channel to much. The Lite Varmint is pretty meaty and I personally wouldn't want to carry anything heavier for any type of field use. Sorry... I haven't shot it yet. Just a note, the barrel tenon threads on the Remington action are a little rough and you get the impression there could be some binding so use some anti-seize when screwing things together.
 
Personally I would not want a barrel that heavy if it's a rifle you plan to carry. You're probably looking at well over 10lbs even without a scope and mounts. My Sendero's and VSSFII are right around 14, 14, and 12lbs if I remember right and my heavy 1999 with the long Med Palma barrel I think is right around 16lbs.

If that barrel is stright (no taper) and basically 1" down it's full length it's probably going to come in somewhere between 12-14lbs but that's just a guess and of course that's figuring on 28" length.

You can look at different barrel manufacturers spec sheets and they'll tell you the approximate weight per inch or finished lengths.

For a rig you plan to carry, particularly in any kind of rough/steep terrain or for long pack in's I'd look at something no heavier than a standard bull magnum contour which finishes at about .75" at the muzzle. The sendero is about .825 and in equal length barrels the weight difference is noticeable.

I got a Criterion from Northland for the 783 at 25" in a Lite Varmint contour. It's a good fit for the Boyds stock you have. I suspect a Bull Barrel will require hogging out the barrel channel to much. The Lite Varmint is pretty meaty and I personally wouldn't want to carry anything heavier for any type of field use. Sorry... I haven't shot it yet. Just a note, the barrel tenon threads on the Remington action are a little rough and you get the impression there could be some binding so use some anti-seize when screwing things together.


Thanks. You guys have given me more to think about. 1 of the rifles I am for sure not planning on carrying. It will just be a range toy and I will most likely stick with the no taper bull contour. Currently I'm planning for this being a 6.5-284.

The other rifle I'm leaning towards building a 300 Win Mag. I have stayed away from belted Magnums. But I've done enough research on reloading for them now, I'm not as concerned about it any longer. There are many nice 30 caliber magnums available. My main reason for picking the 300 Win Mag is do to it's supported the best. Reloading dies, brass, etc... And Nothland Shooters Supply already has the reamer for it.

So let me ask you guys this. Keeping in mind I have other lightweight hunting rifles (308, 30-06, 270, and more), how would you build a 300 Win Mag that will be used for target and hunting? I plan to hopefully use the heavier bullets available in 30 caliber; 220-240 grains. Since this will be target/hunting, I will be using a muzzle brake.
Barrel length - since I'm using a brake I think 26 inches? Maybe 28 inches?
Barrel contour - from your opinions I'm now thinking Light Varmint (0.700 at muzzle) or Varmint (0.815 at muzzle).
Barrel Twist - the standard is 1:10 but would a 1:9 be better for the heavy bullets? I've read opinions on both sides for the barrel twist.

I plan to use a Walnut stock for the 300 Mag. Many think that laminate or synthetic is better for accuracy because of less flex. Will I regret using real wood?

I can hunt everything in my state with the rifles I already own. A hunting trip out west will be unlikely for a few years (at least) because I have a couple little kids running around at home. But if the chance comes, it will be nice to be practiced up with a magnum cartridge that I can use the heavy bullets with better than my 30-06's.

Thanks!
 
Thanks. You guys have given me more to think about. 1 of the rifles I am for sure not planning on carrying. It will just be a range toy and I will most likely stick with the no taper bull contour. Currently I'm planning for this being a 6.5-284.

The other rifle I'm leaning towards building a 300 Win Mag. I have stayed away from belted Magnums. But I've done enough research on reloading for them now, I'm not as concerned about it any longer. There are many nice 30 caliber magnums available. My main reason for picking the 300 Win Mag is do to it's supported the best. Reloading dies, brass, etc... And Nothland Shooters Supply already has the reamer for it.

So let me ask you guys this. Keeping in mind I have other lightweight hunting rifles (308, 30-06, 270, and more), how would you build a 300 Win Mag that will be used for target and hunting? I plan to hopefully use the heavier bullets available in 30 caliber; 220-240 grains. Since this will be target/hunting, I will be using a muzzle brake.
Barrel length - since I'm using a brake I think 26 inches? Maybe 28 inches?
Barrel contour - from your opinions I'm now thinking Light Varmint (0.700 at muzzle) or Varmint (0.815 at muzzle).
Barrel Twist - the standard is 1:10 but would a 1:9 be better for the heavy bullets? I've read opinions on both sides for the barrel twist.

I plan to use a Walnut stock for the 300 Mag. Many think that laminate or synthetic is better for accuracy because of less flex. Will I regret using real wood?

I can hunt everything in my state with the rifles I already own. A hunting trip out west will be unlikely for a few years (at least) because I have a couple little kids running around at home. But if the chance comes, it will be nice to be practiced up with a magnum cartridge that I can use the heavy bullets with better than my 30-06's.

Thanks!

I noticed you mention you already have several .30 cals, a .270, and other numerous calibers.... Why not build a 7mm RemMag with a 28" 1:8 twist Sendero contour barrel to shoot the new Berger 195's to round-out your collection, since you are also planning on building a 6.5 caliber? It should be very similar in performance to the .300WM with the heavy bullets, and components and dies are just as easy to find...

Just a thought.
 
I noticed you mention you already have several .30 cals, a .270, and other numerous calibers.... Why not build a 7mm RemMag with a 28" 1:8 twist Sendero contour barrel to shoot the new Berger 195's to round-out your collection, since you are also planning on building a 6.5 caliber? It should be very similar in performance to the .300WM with the heavy bullets, and components and dies are just as easy to find...

Just a thought.

Funny you mention it... that was my other option I was definitley considering. Only reason for leaning towards the 300 Mag is because I tend to like big holes when shooting animals. But I could probably be talked into a 7mm.
 
I might need some help with some info I haven't been able to find online.

It sounds to me like the Rem 783's are based on the Marlin XL7 rifles. And I read in another forum that you can use stocks inlet'ed for Post 64 Winchester long actions for the Marlin XL7's.

I think it would surely open up some more stock options for me if I could potentially use a Post 64 stock on one of my Rem 783's I am modifying.

I measured my action screws at 7 7/8's inches apart; center to center. My calipers only go to 6 inches so I had to use a measuring tape.

If anyone would be kind enough, I would definitely appreciate it if you could measure center to center on a post 64 Winchester long action for me and report back?

Thank you in advance!
 
Boyds makes stocks for the 783. I just got the black friday email and that was one of the deals they have going on. I'd call first thing Friday if I were you
 
Boyds makes stocks for the 783. I just got the black friday email and that was one of the deals they have going on. I'd call first thing Friday if I were you

Thanks. The Boyds stocks are good. I have some pictures of one of my 783's on page 10 in a Boyds stock.

I'm looking to go real wood with this next rifle. If I can figure out that the receiver bolts and inletting line up enough with the Post 64 Winchesters, I think that would open up a lot more options.

Thanks. :)
 
Thanks. You guys have given me more to think about. 1 of the rifles I am for sure not planning on carrying. It will just be a range toy and I will most likely stick with the no taper bull contour. Currently I'm planning for this being a 6.5-284.

The other rifle I'm leaning towards building a 300 Win Mag. I have stayed away from belted Magnums. But I've done enough research on reloading for them now, I'm not as concerned about it any longer. There are many nice 30 caliber magnums available. My main reason for picking the 300 Win Mag is do to it's supported the best. Reloading dies, brass, etc... And Nothland Shooters Supply already has the reamer for it.

So let me ask you guys this. Keeping in mind I have other lightweight hunting rifles (308, 30-06, 270, and more), how would you build a 300 Win Mag that will be used for target and hunting? I plan to hopefully use the heavier bullets available in 30 caliber; 220-240 grains. Since this will be target/hunting, I will be using a muzzle brake.
Barrel length - since I'm using a brake I think 26 inches? Maybe 28 inches?
Barrel contour - from your opinions I'm now thinking Light Varmint (0.700 at muzzle) or Varmint (0.815 at muzzle).
Barrel Twist - the standard is 1:10 but would a 1:9 be better for the heavy bullets? I've read opinions on both sides for the barrel twist.

I plan to use a Walnut stock for the 300 Mag. Many think that laminate or synthetic is better for accuracy because of less flex. Will I regret using real wood?

I can hunt everything in my state with the rifles I already own. A hunting trip out west will be unlikely for a few years (at least) because I have a couple little kids running around at home. But if the chance comes, it will be nice to be practiced up with a magnum cartridge that I can use the heavy bullets with better than my 30-06's.

Thanks!
To me the 300wm is the SUV of magnums, it just does so much so well.

Even though my first love is the 7mm STW I have 3 of the 300wm's and they have yet to let me down even in Africa.

To me, I like about a #3.5 contour which finishes at about .750, with a minimum 26" length, preferably 28" and yes, put a decent brake on it.

Stock wise I've tried a bunch of them and I really prefer the laminates for utility and value for the buck.

The McMilllian "McWoody" is another good choice if you want something indestructable and weather has no effect on.

Lot's of good barrel makers out there today but Benchmark will probably do my next one. Chris posts here occasionally and they do great work.

Just a thought but if I were building A new .30cal I'd give a lot of thought to a 30 Nosler.

Enjoy.
 
I have one apart now. I have the receiver at the gunsmith to be squared and drill a hole for the set screw on the the new recoil lug.

Hey Mike, did you just have the face of the receiver squared for the new barrel install? Or have the action trued?

Did your smith happen to tell you how out of square your receiver face was? I was reading on another forum and a person mentioned that he has trued many 700 actions and he was surprised to see when he did the 783 it was more square from the factory than any 700 he has done. I kind of have a hard time believing that. Although I did hear these are produced in a newer factory so possibly they are using newer machinery with better tolerances.

Im about to order a couple barrels from NSS. I talked with Jim yesterday (super nice guy). He is trying hard to talk me into a new recoil lug and barrel nut also. But for a couple budget built rifles, I'm just not sure if it will be worth it? Sounds like you got NSS's lug and nut. Do you mind if I ask the cost to have the receiver squared and drilled for the set screw? Thanks, I really appreciate any feedback.

One last question I have to ask... Did you get a scope on yours yet and shoot it? :D
 
Just catching up on this thread, the '783's at $199 each' caught my eye. Gander Mountain has a store near me with them on sale, that with the Rem. rebate puts them at $219. I'm in the market for a 30/06, and after reading all this, I HAVE to try one at this price! I have a 700 SS in .270 Win. that is a .75 MOA shooter box-stock with std. Rem. or Win. factory ammo. If the 783 will shoot 1 to 1.25 MOA I'll be a happy camper! Then, maybe I'll try a Boyd's stock, and bedding it like you did. This stuff could get addicting....( Sarcastic grin...) I learned a lot by reading your thread. I never looked close enough to see the 783 uses a Savage type barrel nut...!
Kudos on a great project so far! A Boyd's stock may be a soon addition on my 700 too!
One question, what scope bases and rings are you using? Does somebody make a Picatinny rail base for a 783? I love the idea of standardizing bases on multiple rifles to be able to swap scopes around easily. Interested to see how far you take this project though! Good luck! Looks great so far!
 
Just catching up on this thread, the '783's at $199 each' caught my eye. Gander Mountain has a store near me with them on sale, that with the Rem. rebate puts them at $219. I'm in the market for a 30/06, and after reading all this, I HAVE to try one at this price! I have a 700 SS in .270 Win. that is a .75 MOA shooter box-stock with std. Rem. or Win. factory ammo. If the 783 will shoot 1 to 1.25 MOA I'll be a happy camper! Then, maybe I'll try a Boyd's stock, and bedding it like you did. This stuff could get addicting....( Sarcastic grin...) I learned a lot by reading your thread. I never looked close enough to see the 783 uses a Savage type barrel nut...!
Kudos on a great project so far! A Boyd's stock may be a soon addition on my 700 too!
One question, what scope bases and rings are you using? Does somebody make a Picatinny rail base for a 783? I love the idea of standardizing bases on multiple rifles to be able to swap scopes around easily. Interested to see how far you take this project though! Good luck! Looks great so far!

Thanks! I certainly appreciate all of the nice compliments.

EGW makes picatinny rails. For the short action they have a 0 or a 20 MOA rail. But for the long action they only have a 0 MOA rail. I have emailed them about them offering a 20 MOA rail for the LA's but have not heard back yet.

I have used Prvi and Remington factory ammo and both shoot well under 1 inch for me. With my reloads I almost always have most holes touching now a days (unless it's a new load I'm trying to figure out). This is the first rifle that I started reloading for so I am by no means an expert. Although I now reload for 6 different rifles. I usually shoot from a bench using a bipod to get those results.

I've seen a guy at my range twice now that shoots a 783 in 243 Win. We've talked a bunch about these rifles. He always seems to use a lead sled, not sure why. His rifle is bone stock and he is shooting 1 hole groups every single time with his (at least it seems that way).

Hope this helps! :)
 
With the Burris signature rings you can get 20 with the different insert sizes. No ring marks and no lapping in the rings are very good things at a great price as well
 
Thanks for the shout back guys. I started looking around on other threads RE: Picatinny bases, mainly for a Weatherby Mark V ( .300 Wby.) I have, and found EGW had what I was looking for. When I get the 783 I'll get a base for each. I used Leupold std. rings on the Mk. V as it had Leupold bases from the previous owner. I mounted a Leupold VX-R 3-9x40 w/CDS turret on it, and found I had very little elevation adjustment left after zeroing. With a 200 yd. zero I only have about 3 MOA left to come up with. I haven't tried shimming anything, yet. The 20 MOA base would be preferable to me. Unless something goes weird with the scope mounting on the 783, a flat/ 0 MOA base should be fine. I plan to use the 783 as a backup/woods/hog hunting rifle, with no worries of getting it scratched or nasty in the swamp.
 
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