Introductory posts and a build log...

As I await the arrival of parts I ponder the following...

If a barrel has been lapped (I paid the $65 to have PBB lap my barrel's), does it still need a full break in procedure?

I'm assuming SOME will be required. I did figure that the added price was cheaper than the extra ammo possibly required during break in of a non-lapped barrel. I assume that the barrel will tell me what it needs/wants...

Thoughts?

To be honest its all mental masturbation as I await the arrival of all my bits 'n' bobs...
 
Barrels arriving today...
Happy Pumped Up GIF by Universal Pictures Home Entertainment
 
As items start to arrive, I'm excited to build this bad boy out...and I can't wait to get in to all the little challenges of the build process.

Out of curiosity, do any of you want to see anything specific. I feel like most of you have been through this process a few times, so watching me struggle through it would be boring or frustrating.

Does anyone want any videos or other documentation along the way?

As a potential or past builder, what would you want to see. Please note, I am not an authority by any means...I barely remember to wipe...so bear that in mind.
 
Torqued the whole bad boy together. Checked headspace and headed to the range. Began barrel break in. Saw minimal copper fouling after about 20 rounds and now its on. Full report soon. Suffice to say I'm super excited, learning a ton!
 
Phew! What a weekend! Here's a picture...not the greatest I know. More details coming soon...

You'll notice that's not an ag composites stock per my build sheet. Bur upon receiving the barrels, I found out agc is delayed...so impatience got the better of me, and I ordered a Magpul 700l and their proprietary bottom metal and magazine. Not a huge fan. Didn't figure I would be, but I shot 80 rounds of 26 nosler this weekend, and so it's served it's purpose so far.


I've never had a new rifle, but "break in" seemed short. I don't know how to guage this, other than copper fouling seemed minimal and cleaned up quickly. I shot 2 rounds and cleaned, 2 rounds and cleaned then a ladder of 21 rounds and cleaned. I'm sure this is a contentious subject and not one I care to dwell on too long other than I felt it was time to shoot and stop cleaning.

Velocities are hard to guage at this point as things seem to be speeding up but I'm narrowing the SD/ES to acceptable ranges. I've narrowed in on a load of US 869 that seems fairly consistent across a number of projectiles in the 120 to 125 grn range.

Groups are not what I'd hoped for. I'm talking 2 MOA at best so far. On some I'll get 2 holes touching and a flier. Sometimes I'll put 5 into a 2MOA group and sometimes I'll struggle to get 3 into 3 inches. Now, I did find that the scope mount screws had loosened up at one point. Once fixed though, I didn't see a huge difference. I do think that the cooper rounds I'm testing like speed and a long jump. So I do feel I'm making progress. But groups seem erratic. I feel like the stock may have some roll to play in the fliers, and I do feel like I'm not seating rounds with enough jump. And obviously I'm limited in bullets selection.

This brings me to what another member alluded to during my build process and it essentially boils down to the limitations of a SAAMI chamber and the boundaries of seating depth on one end and the lands on the other. The fact that this rifle is intended to shoot monolithic bullets compounds this issue. Solid copper bullets gain length as they try to approach traditional bullets weights. If I seat for more jump I'm too far into the case, and if I get proper seating depth I'm too close to the lands. Again, a member here was leading me to water on this subject but I wasn't thirsty. Freebore baby, I THINK I'm talking about freebore. BUT, I do think this barrel is a shooter and I think there is a load out there for me. If there is, I'll find it...

Is freebore something that can be extended at this stage? How does one derive that number?

...anyway...

I'm looking for some excel spreadsheet templates to plot the weekend's data on, open to suggestions, otherwise I'll build something simple this week and share that. In the mean time I'm going to twist on the 28 nosler barrel and try to get that "break in" process started.

Any advice appreciated, "I told you so's" accepted. Comforting words needed...*sniff* I realize now that building custom rifles can cure self esteem.
 

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That is about a 3lb barrel at 8 lbs. it won't balance like you want, most likely.

The heavy barrels you speak of are closer to 5lbs.

That is a big range. Probably should go with a shim adjustable butt pad.



I would consider the 6.5 PRC. Very high performance in a reasonable size. The 26 Nosler seems like a ton of powder for minimal speed gain.


How will you chamber it? Who will throat it to meet your demands?…or design a reamer for a single cut….or who already has a reamer close to your desired chamber? A gunsmith can be invaluable for chambering.
As well as this one.
 
Don't get me wrong. I still have a fair amount of room to work with the intended projectiles.

But a 140 in this rifle seems unattainable, and thus my twist rate choices were...to be frank... uninformed.
 

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Preferred Barrel Blanks 26 nosler is 1:7 and 28 nosler is 1:8. All in all I don't think its a killer, especially since projectiles are copper. But I'm essentially not using the extra twist. I assume I could have a throat reamer made with some added freebore and have the barrels reamed. But I think as long as I can get the original intended projectiles to work fine I'll be happy. For reference here's what I was after originally...It's the last sentence in the quote below that I doubt I'll be able to explore without some gunsmithing.

" 2. I've heard there is magic in a 6.5 caliber bullet in the 140grn weight. That said I'll shoot non-lead. So, I'd like to target 125ish grn for the 26 nosler for everything but elk. If I can get consistent accuracy at 3200 - 3300 fps I'll be happy.

For the 28 I'd be looking at the 150grn mark at 3000-3200 fps to start. My nosler m48 liberty plays well in that range
And I have plenty of components. BUT a 160 to 168 grn pill would be great to explore."
 
Preferred Barrel Blanks 26 nosler is 1:7 and 28 nosler is 1:8. All in all I don't think its a killer, especially since projectiles are copper. But I'm essentially not using the extra twist. I assume I could have a throat reamer made with some added freebore and have the barrels reamed. But I think as long as I can get the original intended projectiles to work fine I'll be happy. For reference here's what I was after originally...It's the last sentence in the quote below that I doubt I'll be able to explore without some gunsmithing.

" 2. I've heard there is magic in a 6.5 caliber bullet in the 140grn weight. That said I'll shoot non-lead. So, I'd like to target 125ish grn for the 26 nosler for everything but elk. If I can get consistent accuracy at 3200 - 3300 fps I'll be happy.

For the 28 I'd be looking at the 150grn mark at 3000-3200 fps to start. My nosler m48 liberty plays well in that range
And I have plenty of components. BUT a 160 to 168 grn pill would be great to explore."
Specifically on the 26N, you should be able to shoot any bullet available in .264 diameter with that twist.

I'm not familiar with preferred; is this a prefit barrel or is it threaded and fit to the receiver by your gunsmith?

How are you determining seating depth?

There's no reason a custom rifle should be printing groups like what you posted. I would work on getting the rifle to group before I made any changes to the chamber.
 
Good story. I understand the DIY thing I would have done the same when I was younger. Not so much anymore. When I invest money into something like this I want someone with the reputation and experience to do the work. Especially since there are custom builders around that would have built the rifle and supplied the parts for equal to or less than you have into doing it yourself. Hats off to you for doing it yourself. At this point I would send it to a gunsmith to do a once over for you. You could have a couple issues that would cost you more in time and components than the price of a gunsmith checking your work and your barrel. I also believe you should be able to exceed your velocity expectations in both calibers fairly easily with the bullet weights you are choosing in a SAAMI chamber. My $.02. Good luck.
 
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