Imperial Sizing Wax

And by the way that's the gas treatment MSDS , I haven't tried it but I'm gonna go out on limb and say that it won't work for case lube
 
I have been using Imperial sizing wax for several decades now, and see absolutely no reason to
change. I would not be letting STP come in contact with my skin, since it has some nasty components.
I did try some Hornady Unique sizing compound, and it is fairly good, but Imperial requires less
effort to size big, tough cases. Dave.
 
I have been using Imperial sizing wax for several decades now, and see absolutely no reason to
change. I would not be letting STP come in contact with my skin, since it has some nasty components.
I did try some Hornady Unique sizing compound, and it is fairly good, but Imperial requires less
effort to size big, tough cases. Dave.
I'm not asking anyone to change, I just suggested it as an alternative but I do think your making a big deal out of nothing
 
Here below, Erik Cortina mentions Ballistic Case Wax, that you might be able to source State side. Do a Google search.


I have annealed brass in several different stages or steps and used cheap brass and the most expensive brass. I use mostly bushing dies, but when determing an effective method of annealing I used sizing die with a sizing button. When brass is hard an has lost elasticity, or lost springyness, the button will squeak when the button is sizing the neck. I experimented with templaq and temp guns but neck still resisted the button. I talked to the engineer at a major brass manufacturer and was told to stand cases in water 60% up on case and concentrate the flame on the shoulder until the neck glows orange and then quench. After doing this the button pulls through neck easily and produces elasticity like new brass. I have never had trouble over annealing, but have trouble with under annealing. Had heard so many different opinions and methods of annealing, but the above method definitely produces accurate brass for me and Lapua brass shows the evidence of brass annealing when new
 
I have annealed brass in several different stages or steps and used cheap brass and the most expensive brass. I use mostly bushing dies, but when determing an effective method of annealing I used sizing die with a sizing button. When brass is hard an has lost elasticity, or lost springyness, the button will squeak when the button is sizing the neck. I experimented with templaq and temp guns but neck still resisted the button. I talked to the engineer at a major brass manufacturer and was told to stand cases in water 60% up on case and concentrate the flame on the shoulder until the neck glows orange and then quench. After doing this the button pulls through neck easily and produces elasticity like new brass. I have never had trouble over annealing, but have trouble with under annealing. Had heard so many different opinions and methods of annealing, but the above method definitely produces accurate brass for me and Lapua brass shows the evidence of brass annealing when new
What does this have to do with case lube ??????
 
I hate to say this in public, but I had a friend back about 40 years ago tell me all he ever uses is Vaseline. I thought he was nuts. Then one day I was out of lube so I thought about the Vaseline thing so I thought I would try it. I never bought case lube again. Never bought Vaseline again because I'm still on the original jar. A little goes a long way. Small batches wipe off with rag. Big batches tumble for half hour or so. Just get a trace on the fingertips and roll case between thumb and fingers.

There, I said it. Hope you don't think I'm to crazy. I'll continue to wittle away at my jar for another 40 years and you do what you got to do.
 
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