I'm way new at this and Mistakes are not cheap .help

[Maina]

29" including DE brake. 1:10

Lol yes

 

[Maina]

My deer rifle for the last 25 years Weatherby 7 mm Remington Magnum scope 4-12 50 mm . Tack driver 1/2 group 100 yards every shot ! I can hit a softball at 500 yards . And that's with gun as is some hold over .

 

[geo4061]

Do not sell the 7mm. That kind of accuracy is not easy to find. The 300 with the brake will kick like a 243. Much less than his 308 or your 7. You both will really enjoy shooting it especially at longer ranges. Go make some memories. That is what it is all about.

 

[Maina]

Ok I want to by my reloading stuff in the next few days . And I really want to do this one time . I would say most shots will not be over 700 yards on deer maybe 800-900 but I don't think so , but it could happen . I will be on gas lines , power lines , RxR tracks clear cuts . Again deer only. And overall pretty flat ground . And deer don't move a lot in high wind out in the open . I will be in a heated blind. I will plink out to 1000 yards also for fun maybe more . It will be cold out maybe snow also . Most spots will be pre ranged . Some guys are saying 210 208 grains lead some are saying 165 180 ? I really don't know what to do ?

 

[Maina]

From what I see guys saying what a bullet does at 100-200 yards and what it does at 700-800 on deer size game is Way different? Like you can't have it both ways? I run 170 in my 7mm mag and under 100 yards I just do high neck shots never the shoulder , it just tears up to much . But I have never lost a deer with that gun . Hits like a hammer .

 

[WildRose]

Hi Maina. The 300rum is a great round. I shoot the Lazzeroni Warbird which is very similar in performance to the 300rum. One thing I haven't heard mentioned is what grain bullet your barrel will stabilize. Rate of twist among other factors will determine that. Mine gun loves 150 grain ttsx. It also shoots 168's very well. Every time I try to go 180 and above my groups suffer. Only thing I can figure is my twist rate, velocity, barrel length, and bullet length are not happy. I push 180's at 3575 but can't keep my 300 yard groups under 2-3 inches. Not to mention recoil is almost unbearable with heavier rounds. A lot of people subscribe to the idea that heavier bullets kill animals better. I prefer energy, bullet design, and precise shot placement and to date my 150-168 grain pills going 3700+ have never let me down. Another benefit is how flat shooting it is. A 300 yard zero gives me -7 at 400 and -17 at 500.
At $140 a box reloading is a must for me and will save you money in the long run. Plus it will be a lot of fun for you and your son to master reloading together as well as shooting.
I guess my point is not all guns will shoot heavy bullets well and at the velocity your 300rum will push 168 will take down anything short of an elephant so don't discount some of the lighter bullets in your testing.

"Energy" is the product of mass and velocity.

Here is a web based energy calculator.
http://www.tresterscustomguns.com/calcnrg.html

You can achieve the same energy with a lighter bullet and faster velocity or with a heavier bullet and less velocity.

The amount of, and effect of that energy on the target depends on the type of bullet used.

If a bullet explodes when it hits the skin you get very little penetration and only a surface wound because not much of the energy went into the animal.

Maximum transfer of energy occurs when the bullet gets into the body cavity and fragments to such an extent that there is no exit.

Minimum transfer of energy occurs when you get a complete pass through with no expansion or when the highly frangible bullet fails to penetrate.

 

[Maina]

180 nosler Accubonds they are saying flys great won't tear up the game at close range and kills out. 1000 yards and flat/ fast shooting
210 Berger vld ,some are saying they don't fly well in the 300 rum
215 highbred Berger ,they are saying fly great and expand well on game over 500 yards . Now what

 

[Maina]

Oh yea and the VLD and Accubonds might have to he Jumped .060 or. . 050 dear god. ! Lol . Could my gun Smith be able to tell me how my Gun looks and if it needs to be jumped?

 

[WildRose]

Oh yea and the VLD and Accubonds might have to he Jumped .060 or. . 050 dear god. ! Lol . Could my gun Smith be able to tell me how my Gun looks and if it needs to be jumped?

Just tell him you plan on shooting heavy for caliber high BC hunting bullets and VLD's and if he knows what he's doing he can cut the chamber accordingly.

 

[Maina]

Ok so I should give him a bullet that I will shoot to go by ?

 

[Maina]

I went to the Berger web site I'm going to get a bullet depth calibrator to jump it with there method

 

[stonehands1]

"Energy" is the product of mass and velocity.

Here is a web based energy calculator.
Bullet Kinetic Energy Calculator

You can achieve the same energy with a lighter bullet and faster velocity or with a heavier bullet and less velocity.

The amount of, and effect of that energy on the target depends on the type of bullet used.

If a bullet explodes when it hits the skin you get very little penetration and only a surface wound because not much of the energy went into the animal.

Maximum transfer of energy occurs when the bullet gets into the body cavity and fragments to such an extent that there is no exit.

Minimum transfer of energy occurs when you get a complete pass through with no expansion or when the highly frangible bullet fails to penetrate.

This is absolutely correct. My rifle like solid bullets like Barnes ttsx. My experience with solids is that they have (for lack of a better term) a wider range of velocity tolerance than any of the bonded lead cores I've tried.
At the higher velocities that my rifle shoots the lead cores really splash on impact at short range. I have not had that problem with the solids. Also I have never had a ttsx pass clean through at short range. My conclusion is that, with solids if the velocity is high enough ie.100-200 yards the velocity/energy is high enough to get the bullet to expand fast enough to not pass through.
Maina you said you plan on shooting mostly 700 and beyond. I think any bullet (solid or lead core) will perform well at that range. I wonder if a 210 grain solid will expand enough at 100-200 yards to not pass through.
Looking forward to your test results.

 

[Lefty7mmstw]

Maina

If you have someone to show you the ropes definitely take advantage and learn to reload. For the 300 RUM I'll give you your first reloading recipe - 210 Berger HVLD, 97.0 grains Reloader 33, Fed 215 primers, seat 0.005" off the lands. I get 3,020 fps with these out of a 26" tube and they shoot around an inch at 200 yards and 3 inches at 600 yards.

that's a tasty recipe.... my 300rum is eating a couple of grains less rl33 and the 225 hdy hpbt at mag length... same basic accuracy (.5 to .6 moa) and velocity. It barks good from a 9# rifle without a brake...

To the O.P. ...

with your 300 rum go with any bullet 180 grains or heavier that shoots well in your rifle... you aren't trying to stay supersonic at a mile so a good pointy mid weight to heavy weight bullet will do.

Keep it simply to start with; you can always break your wallet with extra toys in this game. I didn't even have a range finder until a couple of years ago; I do not have an anemometer or spotting scope. I have a set of binox and a wet finger if I lick it.

 

[WildRose]

This is absolutely correct. My rifle like solid bullets like Barnes ttsx. My experience with solids is that they have (for lack of a better term) a wider range of velocity tolerance than any of the bonded lead cores I've tried.
At the higher velocities that my rifle shoots the lead cores really splash on impact at short range. I have not had that problem with the solids. Also I have never had a ttsx pass clean through at short range. My conclusion is that, with solids if the velocity is high enough ie.100-200 yards the velocity/energy is high enough to get the bullet to expand fast enough to not pass through.
Maina you said you plan on shooting mostly 700 and beyond. I think any bullet (solid or lead core) will perform well at that range. I wonder if a 210 grain solid will expand enough at 100-200 yards to not pass through.
Looking forward to your test results.

Emphasis mine.

There's an awful lot of truth here.

What I've seen is that the cup and core bullets, especially the SST's and NBT's with high velocity impacts tend to pretty well turn inside out losing most of their lead core very quickly and when you do get a pass through usually what it appears to be is basically an empty jacket passing through. This causes massive damage on entry but I've had a lot of big hogs and even deer run a considerable distance before finally crashing and dying even when upon examination it appears that everything in the chest cavity was just turned to mush.

I haven't had that problem with the Accubonds, Interbonds, Accubond LR's or the Swift sirocco.

I shot a buck this year at about 380yds facing me almost perfectly straight on. I was shooting the 300wm with 180gr Sirocco. My POA and POI was half way between the pint of the shoulder and brisket and it passed through the entire length of his body where I found it just beneath the skin of his left hindquarter. Half an inch more and I'd have had a good pass through. It had stayed together very well. When I weighed it I had 164gr of bullet left! The funny thing was I thought for a second I'd missed because he just stood there with that "deer in the headlights look" looking around for probably 10-15 seconds and then just collapsed absolutely stone dead.

We came to the Barnes Bullets back in the seventies when my dad got one of the first .17 Rem's. Nothing we tried early on would stay together at all and his buddy that was reloading for him was a speed freak. He pushed them so fast that often the bullets burned up and came apart in the first hundred yards of flight.

When he tried the original Barnes X they held together no matter how fast he pushed them. We pulled quite a few of them out of coyotes and what we found was that the petals would usually tear away and the rest of the bullet would remain although sometimes pretty deformed.

I've shot some GMX's as well and found similar results.

One reason I like the Interlock so well is that it is both a bonded bullet and has a cannelure, essentially an internal crimp. They expand very well down to that point mushrooming sometimes to the size of a quarter but even at 100-300yds at 7mm STW and 300 Rum velocities I haven't seen any break up even when punching straight through the shoulders.

If a guy isn't shooting beyond 600-750 yds these are ideal bullets to use on everything I've shot them with.