I'm way new at this and Mistakes are not cheap .help

[Maina]

This gun has the bull barrel. Also I new about the burning out of the barrels that's why I wanted to go with the 200 grain to drop down the speed to 3100 fps wouldn't that slow The wear down?

 

[Maina]

So everyone thinks I should skip the spotting scope for now and put that money into reloading equipment ?

 

[BountyHunter]

I will throw something else in the mix.
If you are not going to reload right off do not go the the RUM instead go to the 300 win mag. Look here and on sniper's Hide for a good used one/sendaro that someone else has already spent the money on. That will save you the coat of a muzzle brake also.

Good quality reloads and factory ammo is available for half the cost of the RUM. Plus being new you are not going to master shooting the RUM as easily as the win mag
.
Go withe EGW 20 moa base and rings. Absolutely no need to spend $300 on big name base and rings. Others work just as well.

You can use the ballistics calculator here and just run multiple parameters that will cover 95% of you shots for your area.

 

[just browsing]

This gun has the bull barrel. Also I new about the burning out of the barrels that's why I wanted to go with the 200 grain to drop down the speed to 3100 fps wouldn't that slow The wear down?

Bull barrel will help to dissipate heat better but the outside diameter will have a negligible effect on barrel life. A 300 RUM is a 300 RUM regardless of what weight bullet you use - the difference in muzzle velocity is going to be minimal at best and you'll end up shooting the throat out just as fast using a 200gr vs. a 180gr bullet.

So everyone thinks I should skip the spotting scope for now and put that money into reloading equipment ?

Yes. The spotting scope is never going to hurt, but reloading equipment is going to save you a lot of money in the long run.

 

[Maina]

Yea I already spent the money on the rum so that can't change for now . Ok back to reloading . What is the very Basic equipment that I need with no frills ?

 

[Engineering101]

FearNoWind

I disagree with your disagreement (just kidding). The Magnetospeeds are great and superior in every way except for two things which for me are a deal breaker.

One - hanging a Magnetospeed on your barrel will shift point of impact and...

Two - you have to attach it to the rifle. Many times I'll be at the range rotating through 4 or 5 rifles shooting one and letting the others cool. In the worst case, I'd have to move the Magnetospeed with every shot.

For those who aren't concerned about these things it is a great choice since it can't be misaligned. A chrono that is misaligned by 5 degrees in both pitch and yaw will read a 3,000 fps bullet as ~ 2,900 fps so the auto alignment is a big deal. I use a laser to align my chrono so don't have an issue with misalignment but if you don't want to mess with that it is a good way to go.

 

[Engineering101]

Maina

I agree you should reload but there is quit a bit to it. I recommend that you buy the book "Modern Reloading" 2nd Edition by Richard Lee. Read that and you will understand what is involved. Then if you still want to roll your own, meet someone at the local range who is willing to show you the ropes.

 

[Maina]

I have a friend who is my master electrician/perfectionist lol that is on top of reloading and he said he would show me how to do it

 

[Engineering101]

Maina

If you have someone to show you the ropes definitely take advantage and learn to reload. For the 300 RUM I'll give you your first reloading recipe - 210 Berger HVLD, 97.0 grains Reloader 33, Fed 215 primers, seat 0.005" off the lands. I get 3,020 fps with these out of a 26" tube and they shoot around an inch at 200 yards and 3 inches at 600 yards.

 

[FearNoWind]

FearNoWind

I disagree with your disagreement (just kidding). The Magnetospeeds are great and superior in every way except for two things which for me are a deal breaker.

One - hanging a Magnetospeed on your barrel will shift point of impact and...

Two - you have to attach it to the rifle. Many times I'll be at the range rotating through 4 or 5 rifles shooting one and letting the others cool. In the worst case, I'd have to move the Magnetospeed with every shot.

Just to offer another perspective on your two points (both of which have merit IMO)

One - hanging anything on the barrel will shift the point of impact. But shifting the point of impact isn't an issue when we're applying the device to its intended purpose of measuring muzzle velocity. The Magnetospeed should be used to gather muzzle velocity data and THEN be removed for analysis of grouping on target.
Frankly, even though my groups do shift (about an inch high at 100 yards) with the Magnetospeed in place, I have found that the "footprint" of the groups on target remain consistent; just higher than usual.

Two - There is, IMO, no reasonable counter argument to that one. But removing the bayonet and putting it on another rifle is fairly easy and not a deal breaker chore for me.

 

[R.Morehouse]

When I am doing load development or practicing/training the chrono is up and on and definitely not hanging off the end of my barrel. Data collection is accurate for every shot for placement , speed, ES & average ect. over usually 5 shot groups. Doing things this way just makes the whole experience a lot more fun and productive while maximizing data per shot........There are lots of ways to do things that work for many. The above works for me. gun)......................

 

[Maina]

Maina

If you have someone to show you the ropes definitely take advantage and learn to reload. For the 300 RUM I'll give you your first reloading recipe - 210 Berger HVLD, 97.0 grains Reloader 33, Fed 215 primers, seat 0.005" off the lands. I get 3,020 fps with these out of a 26" tube and they shoot around an inch at 200 yards and 3 inches at 600 yards.

Awesome thank you! How far out have you taken that round?

 

[Engineering101]

Maina

600 yards is as far as I've shot it. I intend to stretch that out when the snow gets out of the mountains - which isn't going to be very long since this Winter wasn't much around here.

 

[WildRose]

I'm trying to set up a long range gun for me and my son to hunt with and target shoot also. . I'm learning that this is not a cheap hobby but this is something my son realy wants to do with me and it does sound fun. I have a remington 700 300 ultra mag LR and a scope, sightron SIIISS624X50 MOA .I found a good gunsmith and he will be doing the muzzle break on the gun for me , I will be going with side porting . I'm looking at a range finder now the Leica Rangemaster CRF 1600‑B and the custom turret wrap . I really don't want to start reloading till next year . I would like to run a 200 grain threw this gun . Unless someone on here thinks different. this gun will be shooting mostly white tails and in Maine they can run large. Shots may run 300-800 yards, plinking up to 1000 yards . I'm starting to look at spotting scopes . Just for target shooting . I'm trying to keep things at around $3000 but that may not happen lol. Gun on sale $700.00 scope $820.00 laser range finder $800.00 gun smithing $300.00 spotting scope $400.00 with you guys helping me I really don want to spend the money find out crap bad Choice ! Thank you !

Something ain't quite right here. It should not cost over 100-125.00 at most for the installation of a muzzle brake.

The North West Precision Muzzle brake which I have on 7 different rifles (the slotted version) is fantastic and they can be bought for 56.00 including shipping.

Muzzle Brake Rifle of Pistol Muzzle Break | eBay

Granted there are some brakes on the market that are as much as a 150.00 higher but where is the 800.00 worth of gunsmithing coming from? Even with bedding and a trigger job along with the brake it would be a stretch to get to 400.00.

Can you break down for us what all he's including for the 800.00?