First Post/Question: 300 RUM

ProfessorM

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Dec 11, 2009
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Arkansas
I have a Model 700 300 RUM. I bought the gun new in 1999 and put a 4.5-14-50mm Leopold on it. It has a stainless barrel/synthetic stock. It is not the heavy barrel. I do not reload, I shoot the factory 150 grain Scirroco bullets from Remington. On a good day, I can get a group around 1.5 inches at 100 yards. I have probably shot around 400 rounds through it. Here is my question/scenario: I can kill a deer consistently to 350 yards(if he will stand still!) I want to have confidence out to 600yds and possibly beyond. What would you do? Thanks for your help. (I needed this website before I was married, when I had money!)
 

Moman

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Feb 7, 2008
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Sonoma County, CA
Not an expert on the 300 RUM but one suggestion would be to take some of the recoil out of it with a muzzle brake. Another is to try different types of ammo. With the brake you could increase bullet size to a 180 or 200.
 

MontanaRifleman

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May 21, 2008
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First step would be to start hand loading. You might be able to get your groups down to 3/4" or less with a lod that your rifle likes. Next step would be replace the stock with a good pillar bedded stock. B&C makes some good ones for a reasonable price. Another thing would be to replace the trigger. Doing these things should help a lot and you can proceed one step at a time to see where each step gets you.

Welcome to LRH and good shooting,

Mark
 

Chas1

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Feb 15, 2009
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+1 on the muzzlebrake. there's also other things you could do, bedding, trueing the action and barrel change.
 
Last edited:

trebark

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Jan 16, 2008
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Falls Church, VA
1. Your action needs a good home to live in. If the stock you have is one of the cheap factory tupperware stocks, replace it with a quality stock like an HS Precision or Bell & Carlson. If the stock you choose does not have an aluminum bedding block, then have the stock pillar bedded and have it skim coated.

2. Recrown your barrel. This is one of the most overlooked accuracy enhancing tasks. The tip of many factory barrels are not square to the bore - resulting in poor accuracy.

3. Have your trigger tuned to 2.5 or 3lbs. In the alternative, consider replacing the trigger with a good aftermarket trigger.

4. Lap the lugs of your bolt. This will ensure 100% contact between your bolt lugs and the chamber.

I've written these in the order in which I would do the work if I were to do each job individually. Although many gunsmiths will do all of this at one time. A good stock will cost you 200 to 300 dollars. The gunsmith work can be done for 250 to 275 depending on your smith.

I talk the talk and walk the walk.... http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f53/my-308-1k-rifle-evolution-continues-43510/
 

Long Time Long Ranger

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Lots of good advice there. Before you spend a lot of money on it bed the action and freefloat the barrel making sure there is no contact with the stock. I bought a used rifle just like yours this year in 338 ultramag. That is all I did and good handloads shot 4' groups at 750 yards. If that doesn't work you have great advice above.
 

RockyMtnMT

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Mar 25, 2007
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I think that getting hand loads for the rifle will give the biggest jump in accuracy. Everything else should come after that. JMHO. Where are you? Do you have a friend that can help you get started? For what it is worth, I have two buddies that have the same rifle as you, and they hold under moa without any mods to the rifle. Only good quality hand loads.

Steve
 

lamiglas

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Mar 20, 2008
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702
+1 on handloading, and + 1 on the muzzle brake. All advice given is excellent, but i would start with the handloading first as you may not need to do anything else. plus, before long, you will be saving money. we recently bought my nephew the same gun you mentioned, and they threw in a box of 150 grain level one loads. the gun shot between 1.5-2" groups. We then tried a group with each of our handloads and found one that shoots just under an inch.
we have two of these guns with brakes on them and two that do not. the defensive edge brakes are incredible! the other two will have brakes, its just a matter of time. without the brake i have to have a slight to moderate hold on the front of the gun, with the brake i can squeeze the rear bag and shoot. We have done nothing else (except trigger jobs, they are a must in my opinion) to these 4 guns and they will all shoot an inch or better after finding the right loads. the ones with brakes are alot easier to consistently shoot under an inch. not sure it makes the gun shoot better, but it helps me to shoot the gun better. good luck.
 

kcebcj

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Jan 28, 2008
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Location
West Central Idaho
I have a Model 700 300 RUM. I bought the gun new in 1999 and put a 4.5-14-50mm Leopold on it. It has a stainless barrel/synthetic stock. It is not the heavy barrel. I do not reload, I shoot the factory 150 grain Scirroco bullets from Remington. On a good day, I can get a group around 1.5 inches at 100 yards. I have probably shot around 400 rounds through it. Here is my question/scenario: I can kill a deer consistently to 350 yards(if he will stand still!) I want to have confidence out to 600yds and possibly beyond. What would you do? Thanks for your help. (I needed this website before I was married, when I had money!)


I feel like being a smart *** tonight and will say this. You shoot a 1 ½ inch group at a 100 yards which is probably better than the average hunter and you can consistently dump bucks at 350 yards if they are standing still. That tells me that the rifle and you shoot pretty good so why don’t you practice to the point where you can take a moving buck at 350 yards then the 600 yards with a standing animal will be a walk in the park. The rifle will get tuned in the process I guarantee you.
 

Long Time Long Ranger

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Mar 12, 2002
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Wyoming
Way to go kcebcj, All us old farts like me and you got to keep these younguns in line. Just kidding. We need to go a huntin some time. I understand what your saying there but some may not understand. I don't think you are being a smarty.
 

ProfessorM

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Dec 11, 2009
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56
Location
Arkansas
Thanks for all the info. I was away from my computer all weekend. Sounds like I have the "right" gun for what I want. My dad used to load all of our shotgun shells but I have never been around rifle handloading. I really wouldn't know where to start or what I would need or how much $$$. I am in Arkansas, anyone know a good gunsmith that could install a muzzlebrake and get me headed in the right direction? (and no offense taken kebcj, I agree with you, just gets expensive shooting $70 boxes of shells)
 

roninflag

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Feb 27, 2006
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3,245
Location
az
i would not shoot a 300 until it had a break and the trigger adjusted. adjusting the trigger is easy and you can find it one line.
 

Chas1

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Feb 15, 2009
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3,557
I would not reccommend adjusting your trigger unless you know what your doing...could be unsafe. As far as reloading-get yourself a reloading book that takes you through the basics such as Lyman's 49th Edition Reloading Handbook or similar. Cost $500-1,000 depending on how serious you want to get. Here's a Link where you can browse and get an idea of some reloading tools...there are many such other places to shop.

Specializing in Reloading Supplies and Equipment for Firearms - Sinclair International
 

Chopaka81

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Oct 9, 2007
Messages
352

This is my Rummy. I am using a M700LH LSS stock, and the rifle has a 30" Benchmark Barrel.
I had my rifle pillar bedded and the barrel channel free-floated.
I am shooting 102.5 grs of US869 with a Hornady 208gr AMAX. I am just shy of 3170 fps with this load. I could go much hotter if I choose to do so. It is minute of mule deer accurate (5 shots 1/2 moa no sweat).
I have a Seekins 20moa site rail, seekins rings, a defensive edge level with a angle cosine indicator, and a Nikon MonarchX 30mm tube 4-16x50mm MD Scope.
I would like to ditto the comments regarding handloading for your rifle.
 

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