Do you put anything between your rings and scope tube?

No, absolutely not.

I don't why anyone would :oops:

The only thing I do is align & lap the rings.

Not even any Loctite is required on the screws.

Just make sure you have a torque wrench & toque to the specs of what your using.

Whatever source you read that from I would not read anything from ever again!
Rubbish!
Utter rubbish!!
Absolutely not ever
 
This is how I normally mount my scopes. I've won many F class and PRS events with this exact set up.

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The idea that rubber cement of all things would help in any way is laughable. If you've worked with rubber cement before, you know that when it is 'set' it still has movement and elasticity. There are plenty of applications where this is desirable, but scope mounting isn't one of them!
 
There is a force called hydraulicing, I beg forgiveness for poor spelling. When a fluid is compressed there is little to no expansion of the fluid. The fluid will cause your rings to expand or your scope to compress damaging internal components and give you forever drifting POI. I ruined one scope many ages ago by following advice without thinking it through. Gun store advice is not always good.
A good torque wrench is not expensive and worth its weight in gold. I use 242 Loktite, (blue), on mounting and ring tightening screws. This Loktite will not loosen but the fastener can be removed with same force it was tightened. I began that practice when I was using quality rings and my scope would keep drifting. This was on my 338 LM, a violent rifle, and the habit just ended up being on all my scope mountings.
 
I dust superfine resin powder on my rings, designed for scopes/rings
One time I was in a pinch with a sliding scope and no time to wait for the replacement rings.. So I dusted some (sports type) rosin powder on the rings like this. That was years ago, worked perfect so I just left it alone. Added benifit: I had an extra set of good rings for the next build when they arrived.
 
Era tac recomomended cut thin latex glove to match rings and put that betwen scope and rings.

For many different problem(like not good algnment) my solution is monoblock montage.

A have month ago a problem with Vortex scope on 375hh (slipping when shoot) and it is torq to the spec.
Vortex said I can put more torque.
But I will put a little two component glue with 90min delayed (similar like bedding but You can easily remove that glue).

I have no problem after that.
 
Going back quite a few years, I can remember some ring sets would come with a type of grip tape either in the box or already attached to the ring. I like the Burris signature zee rings with the Delron inserts. 300Whisper's setup is uhh.....unorthodox....but effective?
 
I don not add anything between the scope and rings. HOWEVER. I have noticed almost all modern low and mid range rings have some tape or something in the ring from the factory. Even leupold.This is because most lower end rings are not machined and made separately. Most high end precision rings are machined and do not need shims.
 
Beginning to wonder from some of the comments if anyone has soldered or welded them to the rings.....

I Lap, tighten screws in circular pattern, slowly torqueing a little more each time until I get to final recommended torque. So far that is all I have needed - and I use six screw rings.
 
I know some who put a dab of superglue or nail polish on the scope/ring junction after scope is mounted. This way, they can detect movemen, but never on the ring mounting surface. Nothing should go between ring and scope. Buy good quality rings and let friction do the rest. More importantly, tighten your screws to the proper, recommended value. Personally I've never had a ring scope issue from 22lr to 50 bmg .
 
back in the 6o's if i remember, linseed oil was applied to rings, when it dried it left a tacky residue.
today, i use Nightforce , Seekins or Talley rings. i do clean them with ballistol before mounting
 
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