Do you put anything between your rings and scope tube?

Burris signature rings use a plastic sleeve that holds scope from moving and never marks the scope tube. Used em for years on hard kickers, they also offer the same sleeves in off-sets if your scope needs moving to center adjustments. Never used the off-sets but have an assortment if I ever hit a problem. The sleeves that come in a set of rings have no off-set just protection for the scope tube and super grip that eliminates slippage.
 
I've never lapped a set of rings yet that were 100% true. I dont even bother lapping anymore I just bed.
You can actually bed m.o.a into rings if you want. Theres to many variables in misalignment in actions, especially factory one rails and rings.
To me it's just easier to bed and forget about the rest.
 
@Jon Bischof


Here's a great read (and how to) from an article on this forum regarding scope ring bedding. Check it out!
 
Anyone use strain gages or similar to show that there is even a difference in stress? Honestly sounds like some snake oil.
Dont knock it untill you try it. Pretty simple really and doesnt take much more time to bed than lap.
Honestly if you dont want to spend the money on NF or Spuhr it's the only way to go even though I still bedded my last 3 sets of NF
 
Not a gun smith but nothing between the rings and scope but a couple of air molecules. All my rifles have rails. I set eye relief and level reticle then "snug" down rear ring to prevent any movement ,relax front base and ease it to the front of the slot in the rail. Tighten base to rail the use feeler gauges to set gap on rings even side to side. Once the front ring screws are torqued to spec rear base is slightly relaxed so it can be eased to the rear of the slot in the rail the tightened and same feeler gauge process used to torque rear ring screws down after base has been torqued.

Now real gun smiths tell me if I am wasting time or otherwise doing this wrong.
 
Not a gun smith but nothing between the rings and scope but a couple of air molecules. All my rifles have rails. I set eye relief and level reticle then "snug" down rear ring to prevent any movement ,relax front base and ease it to the front of the slot in the rail. Tighten base to rail the use feeler gauges to set gap on rings even side to side. Once the front ring screws are torqued to spec rear base is slightly relaxed so it can be eased to the rear of the slot in the rail the tightened and same feeler gauge process used to torque rear ring screws down after base has been torqued.

Now real gun smiths tell me if I am wasting time or otherwise doing this wrong.
I have always heard to keep both rings pushed forward so they are both braced against a rail slot for recoil.
 
I use a dot of blue lock tite on top and bottom rings and tube on hard kickers like 338 lapua, wether it needs it or not.
By doing this, I've never had one slip, ever. Easy clean up on the tube and rings with alcohol, if I ever decide to take it off.
 
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