Do you put anything between your rings and scope tube?

Thanks for the input. Getting a new - bargain priced scope - Vortex Diamondback - 3x9 40 - and it is supposed to include a set of Vortex rings. Will the be alright on a 6.5 Creedmoor - Tikka T3x lite
 
This is how I normally mount my scopes. I've won many F class and PRS events with this exact set up.

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I have seen this before. A priest that had serve in Alaska in the 50s brought back a 30.06 that was very similar to the picture you posted. I took it to a gunsmith and had him fix it!
 
I dust superfine resin powder on my rings, designed for scopes/rings
Yes been doing that for years especially on hard kicking rifles.
Also on hard kickers use wide rings.
The dusting of resin applied in the ring will show miss alignment if the scope is placed in the rings and moved around.
 
Not a gun smith but nothing between the rings and scope but a couple of air molecules. All my rifles have rails. I set eye relief and level reticle then "snug" down rear ring to prevent any movement ,relax front base and ease it to the front of the slot in the rail. Tighten base to rail the use feeler gauges to set gap on rings even side to side. Once the front ring screws are torqued to spec rear base is slightly relaxed so it can be eased to the rear of the slot in the rail the tightened and same feeler gauge process used to torque rear ring screws down after base has been torqued.

Now real gun smiths tell me if I am wasting time or otherwise doing this wrong.

You would be better off pressing both rings forward in their slots. The recoil energy drives the scope rings forward so you're better off aligning them both against the front of the slots to begin with.

Bob
 
I have seen this before. A priest that had serve in Alaska in the 50s brought back a 30.06 that was very similar to the picture you posted. I took it to a gunsmith and had him fix it!

I saw it for real once on a Texas deer hunt. Very similar to the pic of the mini 14. A guy had a 6.5 Swede surplus rifle and he mounted a scope by welding it two steel plates to the receiver, and then welding a scope base on top of his new mounts.

OP, just buy quality rings and a quality rail and you'll be good to go. I'm pretty sure you'll need a rail for tikka receivers anyway. Go with nightforce or seekins. Torque your rings to spec. Enjoy Shooting!
 
I started using Spuhr mounts about 5 years ago and converted all my rifles over to Spuhr mounts. No need to lap, no need for anything other than, drop in scope, level and torque down to specs and you are done! Buy once, cry once!

This. Spuhr rings are 100% Quality. Running 95% Spuhr rings and Spuhr says a dusting of Rosin is optional if you'd like. I do it just as a practice but I doubt it's needed except maybe for the larger calibers.

I did buy a set of Leupold rings for a VX5HD I bought - just felt like matching that day. They were awful compared to the Spuhrs and while listed as black, they were a rusty gray at best. They were so bad I called Leupold just to make sure they were real and not some Chinese knockoff counterfeits. They said they were real and as expected so I sent them back to the vendor and bought a set of Spuhr hunting rings.
 
I Just read a tip a few days ago that recommended a small dab of rubber cement on the rings when mounting a scope. Do you use anything between the rings and tube when final mounting a scope? If so, what and how do you do it?
When I was younger I HAVE taken (cheap) scopes apart that had something like friction tape in there.
 
I Just read a tip a few days ago that recommended a small dab of rubber cement on the rings when mounting a scope. Do you use anything between the rings and tube when final mounting a scope? If so, what and how do you do it?
Benchrest shooter showed me this tip over 20 yrs ago. Been doing it ever since, without a single scope ring mark and seals rings from external debris and aligns scopes without truing them. Scope comes right out when ready to change.
 
Years ago when most people were using Weaver rings I found they would stretch over time and it was hard to keep the scope from slipping. A thin layer of tape inside the rings usually solved the problem. Even today if a set of rings seems to be bottoming out before the right torque is reached I will do the same.
 
NOOOOOOOO! And buy quality rings that don't need to be lapped. Lapping allows for a loose tolerance if not done perfectly. A good set of rings such as Nightforce, Seekens, Spuhr, etc. are machined far more precisely than you can ever lap by hand.
 
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