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Diffence in shoulder length?

timberelk

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 26, 2017
Messages
336
While using a Hornady shoulder measuring tool and testing 7 once fired brass (tested each piece several times) that came from my chamber they ranged from .626-.629". If I'm only suppose to bump the should back .002-.003, what measurement should I use?

I also measured one new Hornady brass and it was at .625"
 
After firing the brass springs back from the chamber walls and softer brass springs back less.
I would bump the shoulder back to between .628 to .627 and see how the case feels when chambered. You can use a black felt tip marker and color the base and shoulder and check for rub marks.
 
After firing the brass springs back from the chamber walls and softer brass springs back less.
I would bump the shoulder back to between .628 to .627 and see how the case feels when chambered. You can use a black felt tip marker and color the base and shoulder and check for rub marks.

You're saying to use a sharpie and color the shoulder edge and chamber once fired brass (don't size it through a die) and see what brass contacts the chamber and removes the sharpie? My guess would be the .629" ones will and the shorter ones won't?
 
Stop guessing.
Take your cases to fully fire formed(a new 'longest'), as indicated by resistive bolt turn(w/firing pin spring removed). Then set your die to bump(actual) a thou at a time until shoulders clear. Log your measure of it for future repeating.
Don't ever trust a die to hit that measure, always verify it, as cases change over cycles in their accepting of bumping.
 
Last edited:
Stop guessing.
Take your cases to fully fire formed(a new 'longest'), as indicated by resistive bolt turn(w/firing pin spring removed). Then set your die to bump(actual) a thou at a time until shoulders clear. Log your measure of it for future repeating.
Don't ever trust a die to hit that measure, always verify it, as cases change over cycles in their accepting of bumping.

Thank you for the recommendation. I did a similar thing (removed the firing pin) but the ejector/extractor still applies pressure to the case and gives me a false reading of pressure. I took once fired brass and it gave me a restrictive bolt **** and it is because the little plunger on the bolt is pushing it in the chamber

I've asked on here for advice to removed the extractor/ejector and have searched for hours on the internet and can't seem to find how to remove the ejector/extractor. It is a howa 1500 bolt/action
 
Take a small punch and tap the ejector retaining pin out. No need to mess with the extractor.
Howa.jpg
 
I believe I found a YouTube video! It is for a savage but I believe it is very similar to the howa 1500 ejector

 
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