Clean Loaded Brass?

[nicholasjohn]

I was wondering when someone would mention Krazy Cloth. It's cheap, it works, lasts for hundreds of rounds. I've been loading since 1968 and I have tried and own everything there is to clean a case. Because of my age, I shoot more paper and steel in competition than hunt, which means 2k to 3.5k rounds per year. After firing a round I aneal for consistency. Wipe with that Krazy Cloth and paper towel, then size with RCBS lube, because it's waterbased and wipes of squeaky clean when I spin it in a drill and wipe with a wet cloth. If I'm doing a lot of cases I might wet tumble instead and clean up the chamfer that the steel pins nicked all up. Of course, I clean the primer pocket and brush out necks if I don't wet tumble, but after completing the loading process I have brass that will stick to any chamber it's fired in and that is a very important part of the "send it" process.

I often load only ten or twenty rounds at a time, and it just doesn't seem like it's worth the effort to get involved in the process I'd use for cleaning couple hundred rounds. I do wonder, though, what the krazy cloth taking out of the surface layer of the brass, because it changes the color to a more pale shade that is a bit silvery looking. It may be that the initial stages of the tarnishing process is what makes them look more of a golden color when they are new in the box. Anybody care to comment on that ?

 

[Blkrflguy]

I tumble my brass after shooting. Then I do all my bass prep, then tumble again. Then I load and shoot. Anything more is OCD and time wasted IMO.

 

[HaroldNRAEndowment]

I would not wipe the loaded cartridge down with a solvent for a very specific reason. It has been known for 30 years that one should not store aerosol cans in the same enclosed compartment with ammunition. The reason is if it had a slow leak in it, The vapor Might migrate through the Primer end and deadened the primer. The one safe way to get rid of primers is to drop them into oil. Acetone is a hydrocarbon and very volatile. Yes the primer is a press fit, and probably it will be tight enough to not allow vapor to migrate in through the primer. But Murphy's law says anything that can happen will happen. I would not take the risk. Again, there is a low probability, but why take the chance. The subject of storing aerosols in with ammunition would have never come up, unless it was proven that it actually happened at some point in time.
Further more, if the brass is clean while loading, and the ammunition is being loaded in reasonable conditions, other than down in the dirt, a soft dry cloth is all that is needed, and to be that particular, one should wipe the brass off out in the field while loading out in the field. If I drop a cartridge on the ground, in the field, I just wipe it off on my clothes.

 

[Philward]

I think the thin layer of acetone that would be on the brass would evap pretty quick and not have a chance to seep anywhere.

 

[slickyboyboo]

I would not wipe the loaded cartridge down with a solvent for a very specific reason. It has been known for 30 years that one should not store aerosol cans in the same enclosed compartment with ammunition. The reason is if it had a slow leak in it, The vapor Might migrate through the Primer end and deadened the primer. The one safe way to get rid of primers is to drop them into oil. Acetone is a hydrocarbon and very volatile. Yes the primer is a press fit, and probably it will be tight enough to not allow vapor to migrate in through the primer. But Murphy's law says anything that can happen will happen. I would not take the risk. Again, there is a low probability, but why take the chance. The subject of storing aerosols in with ammunition would have never come up, unless it was proven that it actually happened at some point in time.
Further more, if the brass is clean while loading, and the ammunition is being loaded in reasonable conditions, other than down in the dirt, a soft dry cloth is all that is needed, and to be that particular, one should wipe the brass off out in the field while loading out in the field. If I drop a cartridge on the ground, in the field, I just wipe it off on my clothes.

Oil will not easily deaden a primer. It can take months or even years to take effect. The easiest and best way to deaden a primer is with warm 5% vinegar. The weak acid will break the components down quickly.

 

[HaroldNRAEndowment]

Oil will not easily deaden a primer. It can take months or even years to take effect. The easiest and best way to deaden a primer is with warm 5% vinegar. The weak acid will break the components down quickly.

I do appreciate the information. The information, using motor oil, came out of the Speer Reloading #9 or #10 manual. I left out motor oil and used just oil above. I do not know if that makes a difference. There was also information in those reloading books, to never handle primers with ones hands, for any natural oil on the hands that is wiped onto the primers can also neutralize the primers. Seeing how those are old books, have the primer chemicals been changed, or was that miss-information. I am only quoting information out of reloading manuals.

 

[slickyboyboo]

I do appreciate the information. The information, using motor oil, came out of the Speer Reloading #9 or #10 manual. I left out motor oil and used just oil above. I do not know if that makes a difference. There was also information in those reloading books, to never handle primers with ones hands, for any natural oil on the hands that is wiped onto the primers can also neutralize the primers. Seeing how those are old books, have the primer chemicals been changed, or was that miss-information. I am only quoting information out of reloading manuals.

Here is some good info I came across when researching deadening primers.

 

[MagnumManiac]

I think the fear of tumbling loaded rounds is "over blown." But I'll let others describe the experience.

I don't believe it is at all.
If you have a slightly compressed powder charge….and everything as is works fine, there is a possibility that the vibration settles the powder and changes the way it behaves.
I used to load my test batches in the house, walk outside where my bench was and test, then load however many, normally around 200 rounds for a match, and verify right there and then.
When Retumbo was first released, I did the very same thing as usual and I knew that when dumping the powder from the measure that the cases were very full, well into the neck. Verifying that load at home proves all was well.
The following morning, I loaded my gear and headed to the venue for that weekends match, it was a 4 hour drive….after setting up and having everything ready to commence I proceeded to fire my sighters. First shot was excessive recoil, mush louder and when I went to open the bolt, it was locked solid, beating it with a rubber mallet did nothing. I tried to pull the barrel, as this rifle is a switch barrel, and that even wouldn't come off. Normally I would have just used my sister rifle, but I didn't take it on this trip…silly me.
It was a head scratcher. I soon realised after pulling several bullets that the powder had settled A LOT! So I started experimenting with how the powder was dumped from the measure and after several attempts found that pouring the powder into a funnel at an angle would cause the powder to 'swirl' into the case allowing it to pack down better. With a reduced load from that initial load, I was able to cause a stiff bolt just by the way the powder was put into the case.
This is why I tell everyone that packing scheme of the powder is just as important as the powder you use itself.
This also why changing the compression of certain bulky powders and leaving an air gap is a bad idea.

Cheers.

 

[nicholasjohn]

I don't believe it is at all.
If you have a slightly compressed powder charge….and everything as is works fine, there is a possibility that the vibration settles the powder and changes the way it behaves.
I used to load my test batches in the house, walk outside where my bench was and test, then load however many, normally around 200 rounds for a match, and verify right there and then.
When Retumbo was first released, I did the very same thing as usual and I knew that when dumping the powder from the measure that the cases were very full, well into the neck. Verifying that load at home proves all was well.
The following morning, I loaded my gear and headed to the venue for that weekends match, it was a 4 hour drive….after setting up and having everything ready to commence I proceeded to fire my sighters. First shot was excessive recoil, mush louder and when I went to open the bolt, it was locked solid, beating it with a rubber mallet did nothing. I tried to pull the barrel, as this rifle is a switch barrel, and that even wouldn't come off. Normally I would have just used my sister rifle, but I didn't take it on this trip…silly me.
It was a head scratcher. I soon realised after pulling several bullets that the powder had settled A LOT! So I started experimenting with how the powder was dumped from the measure and after several attempts found that pouring the powder into a funnel at an angle would cause the powder to 'swirl' into the case allowing it to pack down better. With a reduced load from that initial load, I was able to cause a stiff bolt just by the way the powder was put into the case.
This is why I tell everyone that packing scheme of the powder is just as important as the powder you use itself.
This also why changing the compression of certain bulk powders and leaving an air gap is a bad idea.

Cheers.

I have a manual that was written by Mic McPherson, and he recommends the swirling of powder into the cartridge case. He also uses the term "packing scheme" as you called it. He stresses the importance of having the powder kernels arranged inside the cartridge case in a uniform manner, as it improves the uniformity of the loads from shot to shot.

I have also read about guys using an electric toothbrush to vibrate the powder into the case, when using a very slow-burning bulky powder that completely fills the case. I would think that if a guy does this, it would stay packed in the same manner pretty well, even when in the bed of the pick-up on bumpy roads. Do you think this would help with the situation you're bringing up here ?

 

[MagnumManiac]

I have a manual that was written by Mic McPherson, and he recommends the swirling of powder into the cartridge case. He also uses the term "packing scheme" as you called it. He stresses the importance of having the powder kernels arranged inside the cartridge case in a uniform manner, as it improves the uniformity of the loads from shot to shot.

I have also read about guys using an electric toothbrush to vibrate the powder into the case, when using a very slow-burning bulky powder that completely fills the case. I would think that if a guy does this, it would stay packed in the same manner pretty well, even when in the bed of the pick-up on bumpy roads. Do you think this would help with the situation you're bringing up here ?

Yes it does, have tested it numerous times.

Cheers.

 

[Muskrat Outdoors]

I wipe my cases after sizing to remove the sizing wax….that's it, no chemicals, no tumbling. I just prime them, bag them or load them, depending on what I am doing at the time.
I have never heard of anyone doing this.
I once caught my buddy tumbling LOADED ROUNDS in his case tumbler. His excuse was that he forgot to wipe off the case lube and that was the easiest way to clean 100 rounds….I just shook my head and said YEP, WHATEVER!

Cheers.
P. S. I guess I'm not THAT strange after all!

Tumbling loaded rounds seems like a terrible idea to me too, but a friend works for Buffalo Bore Ammo, and I worked for a smaller ammo factory.........both places tumble their loaded ammo as standard practice. Both are commercial ammo factories and consider it safe.

 

[MagnumManiac]

Tumbling loaded rounds seems like a terrible idea to me too, but a friend works for Buffalo Bore Ammo, and I worked for a smaller ammo factory.........both places tumble their loaded ammo as standard practice. Both are commercial ammo factories and consider it safe.

They don't use compressed loads, so they don't need to concern themselves with the issues I pointed out.

Cheers.

 

[dgkypke]

I have asked that question about the vibrating dry tumbler with loaded rounds on this forum a few months ago, and it was an overwhelming "YES" statement by several members.

 

[chariotdriver]

I've thrown loaded brass in a vibratory tumbler if it get tarnished in the field.

Other than that nothing after cleaning in the SS pin tumbler.

Have heard this