Bolt handle will not close with reloaded cases

[The Duke007]

I have a 270 Weatherby Mag that I reload for, when using new brass the rifle will cycle no problem. When using reloaded brass the bolt handle doesn't want to close, I looked for any any obstructions in the barrel and action area with camera can't seem to find anything. I tried adjusting the die more but all it was doing was denting the brass. I just had the gun rebarreled and just got it back about a week ago. Anyone come across this let me know.

 

[440coronet]

I have a 270 WEathery Mag that I reload for, when using new brass the rifle will cycle no problem. When using reloaded brass the bolt handle doesn't want to close, I looked for any any obstructions in the barrel and action area with camera can't seem to find anything. I tried adjusting the die more but all it was doing was denting the brass. I just had the gun rebarreled and just got it back about a week ago. Anyone come across this let me know.

i had this happen once. Resizing die had gone out of adjustment. Make sure you have it adjusted to cam-over just a bit when setting it. Also overall case length maybe an issue if new barrel has a shorter chamber. Lastly have you used this die set before?

good luck!

 

[bob4]

I think what I might try first off is fire one that chambers fine. Then extract it and rechamber it. If it goes in fine then run it through the die if it doesn't chamber after resizing I think you could rule out the barrel and focus on your die.

 

[MagnumManiac]

This is a common problem, most screw the die in until it touches the shell holder and tighten the lock ring. This may be good 90% of the time, then you come across a short chamber and a long die.
To overcome this, using a feeler gauge under the case head with the recapping rod RAISED so it won't touch the feeler gauge. Start at .003", size, chamber and continue in .002" increments until the bolt just closes with some resistance, add another .002" gauge and you're done.
If you're using Weatherby/Norma brass, measure just in front of the belt, it should NOT measure MORE than .513", if it does, your chamber is too sloppy.

Hope this helps.

Cheers.

 

[bob4]

Naturally I would measure cases before and after resizing.

 

[Mike 338]

I once had a problem chambering a very compressed load but the less compressed loads did. I just stuffed to much powder in the case and it bulged.

 

[Rich Coyle]

I would start by checking the headspace on one of the factory fired rounds. Then that I would size that brass and check the headspace on it. Adjust the dye 1/20 of a turn until the measurements match.

Like one of the other posters suggested measure above the belt.

Also make sure your rounds are not so long the bullet is hitting the rifling.

 

[The Oregonian]

I have a 270 Weatherby Mag that I reload for, when using new brass the rifle will cycle no problem. When using reloaded brass the bolt handle doesn't want to close, I looked for any any obstructions in the barrel and action area with camera can't seem to find anything. I tried adjusting the die more but all it was doing was denting the brass. I just had the gun rebarreled and just got it back about a week ago. Anyone come across this let me know.

Make sure the exterior case mouth is chamfered. I have had issues where there was a slight lip on fired cases, usually after two firings. Just brass would chamber, which I was doing to check shoulder bump. But then loaded ammo would not bc of the little lip. So now I chamfer when I can feel a little lip on the very end of the neck...easy to feel with your finger nail. It seemed to be maybe .003 or so.

It felt different than not enough bump bc the round would stop well short of going into the chamber and was a hard stop and couldn't get any kind of crush fit.

 

[AZShooter]

If you continue to have issues bring the rifle back to gunsmith. He created that chamber, which may be on the short side, he can help solve it.

 

[pwee223]

2 nd's on cam over. we all learn the hard way. Good luck.

 

[codyadams]

This is a common problem, most screw the die in until it touches the shell holder and tighten the lock ring. This may be good 90% of the time, then you come across a short chamber and a long die.
To overcome this, using a feeler gauge under the case head with the recapping rod RAISED so it won't touch the feeler gauge. Start at .003", size, chamber and continue in .002" increments until the bolt just closes with some resistance, add another .002" gauge and you're done.
If you're using Weatherby/Norma brass, measure just in front of the belt, it should NOT measure MORE than .513", if it does, your chamber is too sloppy.

Hope this helps.

Cheers.

This is a good way to figure out how much it needs, then a good fix is to take off that amount from the face of the shell holder, so if you need .005", then use emory cloth and take away .005-.008 from the face of the shelholder that contacts the die, and keep that shellholder with that die set. Then you can just set your die to cam over and size your brass like normal.

 

[gohring3006]

Measure set back, I'll bet you are stretching your cases. If your not screwing your die down enough to make shoulder contact, you will stretch it.

 

[LoneTraveler]

Some good suggestions on resizing die problems.
If its loaded ammo, You did not say what dies you are using. If your seating die has a crimp in it and it is screwed in the press to far. Could be making a hump at the shoulder case body junction. Just something else to check.

 

[Laelkhunter]

You say that the rifle cycles with new brass, but the bolt won't close on a reloaded case. The reloaded brass is probably from the old barrel, and it could be the new barrel's chamber is a little tighter than your original Weatherby barrel. Same thing happened to me when I had my .340 Weatherby rebarreled with a Lilja barrel. I ended up buying a Larry Willis collet die. It resizes the case ahead of the belt. Innovative Technologies [email protected] or 407-695-2685. Now I can reload the brass that was fired in the old Weatherby barrel whereas I couldn't get them to chamber before. The die is well worth the price considering the cost of brass for a Weatherby.

Also, don't forget to trim the cases to the recommended "trim to" length, and chamfer the mouth of the case.