Bedding Compound - yes I've searched

Just askin...it seems like no body uses Acra glass. Is this not a good pruduct? I did my Ruger 77 tang with it, and it seemed ok, but is there a reason to use something else ? Problems down the road, maybe ? I'm getting ready to do a Savage, and I only want to do it once, so your experience could save me (and others ) alot of grief. Thanks
 
Just askin...it seems like no body uses Acra glass. Is this not a good pruduct? I did my Ruger 77 tang with it, and it seemed ok, but is there a reason to use something else ? Problems down the road, maybe ? I'm getting ready to do a Savage, and I only want to do it once, so your experience could save me (and others ) alot of grief. Thanks

I worked in a gun store in the early 90s during the summers. There were 7 gunsmiths full time on location. I had my Ruger MKII 77 done in Acra glass as well. It seemed to be fairly popular at the time but since then there are better bedding materials that apparently work better. McMillan rifle co uses marine tex grey and it is reported to be the hardest compound for bedding, so I was told. I have talked with many builders and acra glass is honestly never mentioned among bedding compounds anymore. In fact, this thread is the most recent I've seen that it is still used.

The various Devcons, Marine Tex Grey, and ProBed 2000 are the top compounds I have heard of.
 
I worked in a gun store in the early 90s during the summers. There were 7 gunsmiths full time on location. I had my Ruger MKII 77 done in Acra glass as well. It seemed to be fairly popular at the time but since then there are better bedding materials that apparently work better. McMillan rifle co uses marine tex grey and it is reported to be the hardest compound for bedding, so I was told. I have talked with many builders and acra glass is honestly never mentioned among bedding compounds anymore. In fact, this thread is the most recent I've seen that it is still used.

The various Devcons, Marine Tex Grey, and ProBed 2000 are the top compounds I have heard of.


+1

I started using the Acra-Glass after dealing with Bisonite and some other stuff. the acra Glass was better but it ran and made a mess. (It often had bubbles in the finished product). then I went to
acra glass jell and it was better .

Then came a few bedding compounds that were designed for bedding and they were a big improvement.

After trying all of these I settled on the Steel bed from Brownell's because It was the easiest and
most forgiving of all that I tried.

There are several other brands mentioned that work well and have good strength and work time like the Steel Bed and I will not hesitate to use them if I cant get the Steel bed.

My recommendation would be, No matter what brand you decide on, Get a product that was designed specifically for bedding rifles. is thick enough not to run, has some sort of metal shorts in it
(For strength) and has about a 2 hour work time.

J E CUSTOM
 
You can buy kits from Brownell's, MidwayUSA, Hardware Store, Auto Finish Store, and Boat Repair store. There are several options, Fiberglass resin with hydrogen peroxide hardener, color pigment, and filler, (polyester, glass, or metal). You can use am epoxy 50/50 mix with hardener, color pigment, and fillers (polyester, glass, or metal). One uses a wax as release agent on either. There are plusses and minuses of each combination.

Using the right combination for the specific stock material being bedded is important.

I buy both my fiberglass resin and epoxy based bedding compounds from West Marine. I buy my spackling compound from auto finish stores. Synthetic stocks should be finished with sealing finishes, wood stocks should be sealed with a breathing finish.
Good luck
Nat Lambeth
 
Just askin...it seems like no body uses Acra glass. Is this not a good pruduct? I did my Ruger 77 tang with it, and it seemed ok, but is there a reason to use something else ? Problems down the road, maybe ? I'm getting ready to do a Savage, and I only want to do it once, so your experience could save me (and others ) alot of grief. Thanks

Brown Precision, they are said to have invented the fiberglass gunstock, recommends Acraglas for bedding their stocks.
 
Devcon 10110. Mixed to putty consistency, bonds where it is supposed to, does not where I polish with Johnson Paste Wax, sets up smooth like glass and does not move.

Larry
Tinkerer
+1 on Devcon 10110

I did the same web searching the original poster did, but came up with Devcon 10110 as most frequently recommended by the highly experienced. Got some and used it on four rifles so far. It works great.
Wallypedal

BTW - I never saw the importance of using neutral Kiwi. It all has to come off anyway, I had some brown and it worked well. I'll bet Imperial case sizing wax would work well too.
 
Last edited:
Well the time has come. I have the rifle set up in my vice inside the house to get to temp for bedding the action tomorrow after work. On lunch I just have to get some bolts on lunch and cut the heads off to use as guides.

I have the Kiwi, I couldn't get the Devcon local and for some reason it's getting hard to order it. I blame it on the parts houses around here for having to hire ******* at 7 buck an hour instead of someone half way competent. For that reason, I'm just using the JB Weld. I've been half way harassed on other forums for questioning the use of it. I have it, a ton of it that I use on other projects, so it's getting the nod.

I can honestly say I'm half way nervous about this, even with watching a ton of videos on it........

Wish me luck!
 
I've gone back to JB Weld and I'm happier with the result than with Devcon, it mixes easier and the bubbles work out of it good for a better finish, you do need to let the JB set up longer, I usually give it two days in the warm house before popping it out!
 
I leave the polished out Kiwi on unless it's being prepped for Cerakote. That's why I use the neutral. It's a great metal protector.

These things work too. Vice grip door handles, coat hanger antenna's, visqueen windows, duct tape seat covers and now JB Weld for bedding.
 
Well the stock is scuffed and prepped. These savages don't have a lot of bedding surface on the rear mount on the factory stocks, however, I'm sure after this it will still be better.

Where the front screw is there are lots of cavities that I will fill with epoxy as well to help stiffen it up. I put a thin layer of Kiwi on everything I could think of, even the taped off and areas I put play doh.

I'll quadruple check everything tomorrow when I get home from work, while it's quiet before the wife and 5 year old get home, and it's getting set in the stock.

I think I will lightly wrap tape around the action/stock just to hold it all in place.

My dies should be here this week so I can start on the hand loads for this rifle. It will be interesting to see the transformation of inexpensive .308win Savage Model 11 hunting rifle with Core lokt ammo to a bedded stock and hand loaded ammo.

Thank you all for the information. This sight is geat!
 
On a Savage, most the bedding is for the front behind the recoil lug to the front of the mag well. There is a littler surface for the action itself along side the mag well. There is no surface at the rear pillar unless your installing pillars, and than about all your doing is bedding the pillar itself. Remember, a little tape under the rear tang to float it and the barrel, too.

CAUTION. I have learned to remove the action from the bedding at about 4 hours to make sure there is no interference and than reassemble and wait the rest of the 24 hours. JUST IN CASE.

Yes, a wrap or two of tape is sufficient to hold it during bedding.

Larry
Tinkerer
 
Well all I can do now is wait. :) I have tape holding the action, used kiwi on the longer bolts I ground the heads off of like guide pins, and she's setting up as of four hours ago. We shall see what tomorrow brings.
 
Warning! This thread is more than 11 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.
Top