Barreling my first action help needed

[Dave in WI]

So I'm finally barreling my first action and would like some support. I have the action (Rem 700) "blueprinted" via the Manson reamer/tap mandrels (std, not +.010). (please, not a discussion on pro/con of this method.) I am going to chamber in 223 Rem to keep it simple. I have to order the barrel and looking at balancing the purchase on getting a quality barrel vs not spending top dollar on a barrel I may ruin.
Will buy a standard .223 Rem reamer with floating pilot as I have the bushings. Don't plan on worrying about extra throat for really long VLD bullets, etc. So, probably 69gr or less loads.
I want to chamber, so not Remage as I need to build confidence in chambering.
What are your suggestions for a barrel and twist?
And what questions haven't I asked to steer me in the right direction?
TIA
Dave

 

[Rich Coyle]

This is only speculating but if you call Dan Lilja and tell him what you are doing I bet he would work with you on a good deal.

 

[TwoMore]

So I'm finally barreling my first action and would like some support. I have the action (Rem 700) "blueprinted" via the Manson reamer/tap mandrels (std, not +.010). (please, not a discussion on pro/con of this method.) I am going to chamber in 223 Rem to keep it simple. I have to order the barrel and looking at balancing the purchase on getting a quality barrel vs not spending top dollar on a barrel I may ruin.
Will buy a standard .223 Rem reamer with floating pilot as I have the bushings. Don't plan on worrying about extra throat for really long VLD bullets, etc. So, probably 69gr or less loads.
I want to chamber, so not Remage as I need to build confidence in chambering.
What are your suggestions for a barrel and twist?
And what questions haven't I asked to steer me in the right direction?
TIA
Dave

When I first started I used a bunch of green mountain blanks, very inexpensive and to tell you the truth they shot really well

 

[Jkling12]

My green mountain shoots sub 1/2'' all day long in 30-06. They can be had cheap and would be great to start with

 

[Dave in WI]

Thanks for the replies.
Should I be looking at 9 twist to shoot lightweights bullets on up to maybe 69 SMK?

 

[MudRunner2005]

Thanks for the replies.
Should I be looking at 9 twist to shoot lightweights bullets on up to maybe 69 SMK?

I would go 1:7, incase you ever decide to shoot heavier bullets.

 

[Jkling12]

I'd go faster in case you want the heavy bullets. Lots of factory ammo coming with 70+ grain bullets now

 

[Smokinghole]

I have a Green Mountain blank on my 6.5 Creedmoor that was done by Apache. It's accurate and I haven't even found the sweet load yet. Been busy with a new baby and the jeering looks from the wife each time I say "headed to the range". I'm sure it's at least a 3/4Moa barrel based in preliminary load development.

 

[375fan]

7 twist, the heavier bullets (70-80gr) really make the 223 shine, especially at distance.

 

[Alex Wheeler]

Buy a Krieger and dont screw it up, . You can always set it back if you have to. Xcaliber sells blanks pretty cheap if you really are concerned.

 

[Deleted member 46119]

What @Alex Wheeler said is true.

Another option is a Pac-Nor prefit. Very little if any work on bolt to breech clearance. Then finish the chamber and done.

It may be possible to get the same form Lilja, Krieger or Benchmark.

All it takes is a phone call.

BTW: I usually go Pack-Nor if I pre-fit. I have a 223 28" barrel that more than likely will become a 22-250AI instead. The fluting is done. The threading is done. All I have to do is finish ream.

 

[bigngreen]

Your first chamber job is only going to be as good as the barrel you use, don't sell yourself short over $100. The cheapest high quality blank is a Rock Creek.

 

[AZShooter]

If I read your post correctly you are going to do your own barrel installation chambering etc not have someone else do it.

I read all I could on line as to how others were chambering their barrels. Gordy Gritters has a good video series on the subject. He goes into some details I found a bit much for me to do but I gleaned plenty of information from those videos.

I have a 1950s Sheldon lathe and began getting ready to do my own chambering and barrel installations by making acquiring some tooling to help me make good chambers. Made a floating reamer holder. Purchased this adjustable micro stop reamer holder:
http://pacifictoolandgauge.com/ream...icro-adjustable-reamer-stop-kit-mars-kit.html
Made a headstock spider for supporting the opposite end of the barrel. Made some pieces of metal for the four jaw independent chuck so the barrel would be able to move when spider was adjusted.

Practiced making threads on old barrels till I could make the exact fit with a receiver.
Then rechambered a few take off barrels to get headspace practice. Also practiced doing crowns.

I used a Hawkeye bore scope to view the chamber work as well as the crowns.

Finally I began to chamber a few Bartlein and Lilja barrels.

Now if you have been a machinist for a long time and have all the equipment, I'd say get a new custom barrel and do it. But otherwise it may be smart to get some practice in before you attempt machining a $300-400 barrel.

 

[jrock]

When I first started I used a bunch of green mountain blanks, very inexpensive and to tell you the truth they shot really well

This is a good route. Get a 1.25" blank and keep chambering it and cutting it down until you get the level of "perfection" you want. Then get the real barrel.

Now if you have been a machinist for a long time and have all the equipment, I'd say get a new custom barrel and do it. But otherwise it may be smart to get some practice in before you attempt machining a $300-400 barrel.

Mega ditto on this one.

There are many different methods and tools to try for chambering. You may find that that the method you planned on using doesn't work as well for you as others. It's worth practicing in any case.