anyone know the formula to fireform brass with cream of wheat?

30-06 boy

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a few years ago i fireformed some 300 weatherby brass to fit my chamber with unique pistol powder(only about 10 grains)then some toilet paper to seperate the powder and cream of wheat cereal then toilet paper to keep cream of wheat in the case.anyone out there know the amount of gun powder to case capacity ratio to use as not to blow myself up?or know another way to fireform brass without "wasting"bullets and 60 grains of powder just to get tight fitting cases?by the way i'm forming 30-06 winchester cases.
 
Been using HP38/Win231 for the last many years. For '06, I would use 12gr of powder, lit by any stand LR primer.

I just dump in some powder, throw the COW on top and stuff some TP into the neck to hold it all in place.

Fire and you are good to go.

Jerry
 
jerry are you saying 12 grains of unique orwin231 or??????dont want to remove my fingers or eyeballs. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gifwould prefer to use unique as thats what i have on hand. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif thanks
 
30-06,
Melt some candles onto a flat tray, let it set, turn the tray upside down and push your case neck into the wax for an excellent plug.

Ian.

"I meant to shoot the pike but the duck got in the way"
 
Start with 10% of case capacity (70gr of unique =7grs to form)then you might have to work up from there a little at a time.
unique,COW to bottom of neck then roll TP and insert in mouth pack down to hold the fire
 
I have used corn meal much the same as cream of wheat and a soft plug by sticking the neck into a soft bar of soap.

Forget all that stuff. Use Unique or any other fast pistol powder that you have on hand in ratios mentioned. But forget about the filler, it just makes a mess and is completely unnecessary if you keep the rifle pointed straight up and use a wad of rolled up newsprint pushed into the neck, flush. (about a 1-1¼" square). This gives just as well formed shoulders as with the filler.

Of course, you can (also) shoot loaded ammunition, since you are dealing with a 30'06 and are not particularly concerned with barrel life. Actually, I can't figure out why you want the trouble to form 30'06 cases, this technique is usually done with "Improved" cartridges.

Good hunting. LB
 
Just a question what are you really fire forming? Are you making 25-06 or 270 into 30-06 or something?

I've only had to make two types 223-7mm for my TC pistol and 270 AI. The 223. I just bought a 12 pack of beer and box of 500 223's. It was really hard to hit anything with a .223 bouncing down a 7mm barrel. So the beer didn't hurt my aim point. 270 to 270 AI I just use full blown 270 win loads. They shoot nice and could even make some some nice patterns on a bench rest shoot.
 
That would be Win231 or HP 38. Those are the only powders I have used. Of course, start low and work up. don't use any instant powdered stuff and be careful if the 'loads' are left in wet or humid climates/conditions. You don't want the filler to harden.

I make up my loads a day before shooting.

Jerry
 
This is probably a really stupid question but here goes...

How do you know when you have used enough powder to form the case?

The cases I am thinking about are virgin 7mm Remington Magnum Cases run through a full length sizing die for a .257 Weatherby that is adjusted so the bolt gives slight resistance when closing.
 
I may not understand the question, but to attempt this: [ QUOTE ]
the bolt gives slight resistance when closing.

[/ QUOTE ] as a function of fireforming is not quite the purpose, unless you are shooting full charge ammo with a bullet, and then bumping the shoulder?

The only thing gained by fireforming is the expansion of case dimensions. Resizing, on the other hand contracts the outer dimensions. It would be very difficult to accomplish both, by a fireforming operation. Additionally, you still need to fire an assembled cartridge in your modified chamber before you have aquired a case that actually "fits" your chamber, and has achieved proper case capacity, to the point where it would benefit by "bumping" the shoulder.

You know when you have used enough powder when the case "looks" similiar to the chamber dimensions, althugh the angles may not be quite as sharp and distinct as if you had used a full power cartridge, in the case (situation) of an Improved cartridge, like an Ackley. It almost always requires a second firing to get the sharp corners....without a bullet.

Now, if this (information) doesn't further confuse you, I'd be surprised. It would be better to take a couple baby steps than try to grasp the whole enchillada.

Another question that comes to mind is why screw with 7Mag cases, when you can buy 257 Weatherby, and omit some tedious procedures?

Good hunting. LB

edit: another thing I would like to comment on. I have used the filler "cream of wheat" several times and it seems that we are overlooking the fact that it is completely unnecessary, and causes more problems than it is worth. You don't need it; and if you use it, you will probably get it in the action and inside the chamber area where it will produce dents when you fire the next shot.

Use a fast pistol powder and rolled up newsprint and point the barrel straight up in the air and if you need more powder, add more powder. On the other hand, metering cream of wheat or weighing it and cleaning it out of your action and chamber is a real (and unnecessary) mess. I have been there and done that and the inert media is a bad idea, regardless of where or how many times you have seen it described in various places. Some information is better than other information. LB
 
LB

That actually helps me out a bunch...and I understand it better than I did /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif

The reason I went with the 7mm Remington Cases vs. just buying .257 Weatherby was this - $0.34/case vs. $1.00/case.

Second, I guess the Cream of Wheat thing is not applicable here because after I run the 7mm brass through the FL sizer for the .257 Weatherby, things look pretty much like they ought to. They are just not formed to the chamber, but if what you say is true, cream of wheat won't get me there anyway. I will just assemble some light loads and shoot them to get some brass that fits my chamber and then start load work up from there.

Any flaws in my thinking?

Thanks.
 
So you´d just use some fast pistol powder and paper... what do you mean by rolled up?

do you think shotgun powder would work too for fireforming??Should do since in some cases is similar to pistol powder.
 
[ QUOTE ]

The reason I went with the 7mm Remington Cases vs. just buying .257 Weatherby was this - $0.34/case vs. $1.00/case.
.......after I run the 7mm brass through the FL sizer for the .257 Weatherby, things look pretty much like they ought to............ I will just assemble some light loads and shoot them to get some brass that fits my chamber and then start load work up from there.

Any flaws in my thinking?

Thanks.

[/ QUOTE ]

Light loads are not needed. I fireform with my full house Ackley loads on my 25-06AI. Accuracy is good and I have never lost a case or wasted any powder because I'm having a good time shooting stuff with it. I would use 5 for load developement and then just load up 100 real ones for practice.

I have 2-257Wby a 2-7mm Rem mags. I prefer my brass have the right head stamps though I never look at them. Each rifle has it's own box of 100 brass that stays with it. As long as they last the .95 each for Wby brass is not that bad.
 
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