Anti-Cant: Help Needed

[NWmissouriman]

I'm looking for some help with choosing an anti-cant device for my rifle. Here's a little background information. A few years ago I built a custom 7mm Rem Mag on a trued model 700 action with a McMillan M40A1 stock and a Shilen match grade select 27" barrel. It started with a Leupold VX-3L 6.5-20x56, then moved to a Vortex Viper PST FFP 6-24x50, and now a NF ATACR with MOAR reticle. I use the gun primarily for whitetail hunting, long range plinking, and any type of medium sized game I'm fortunate enough to get to hunt. Most of my hunting shots are under 400 yards, but I long for that shot on a nice buck at 700-1,000 yards. I also have plenty of places to practice to distances over 1,000 yards, but I have little intentions of shooting over 1,000. With the scope, gun, and distance taken into consideration, what type of anti-cant device would anyone suggest? Let's assume that price doesn't matter at this point since it seems as if that ship sailed with the new scope. I was strongly considering the bubble ring for my NF rings, but I once read something about the bubble being canted itself if you don't have the rings tightened with the same amount of space on each side. Thoughts anyone? All help is appreciated and I thank you for your input. *Note* I shoot left-handed

 

[WyoElk2Hunt]

If your scope bases are level with the action and your scope is level with the bases then your cant level is set to your scope. I use the level, level, level system with three levels all set up at same time.
Wheeler Level‑Level‑Level
$19.99
Cabela's

 

[justgoto]

I'm looking for some help with choosing an anti-cant device for my rifle. Here's a little background information. A few years ago I built a custom 7mm Rem Mag on a trued model 700 action with a McMillan M40A1 stock and a Shilen match grade select 27" barrel. It started with a Leupold VX-3L 6.5-20x56, then moved to a Vortex Viper PST FFP 6-24x50, and now a NF ATACR with MOAR reticle. I use the gun primarily for whitetail hunting, long range plinking, and any type of medium sized game I'm fortunate enough to get to hunt. Most of my hunting shots are under 400 yards, but I long for that shot on a nice buck at 700-1,000 yards. I also have plenty of places to practice to distances over 1,000 yards, but I have little intentions of shooting over 1,000. With the scope, gun, and distance taken into consideration, what type of anti-cant device would anyone suggest? Let's assume that price doesn't matter at this point since it seems as if that ship sailed with the new scope. I was strongly considering the bubble ring for my NF rings, but I once read something about the bubble being canted itself if you don't have the rings tightened with the same amount of space on each side. Thoughts anyone? All help is appreciated and I thank you for your input. *Note* I shoot left-handed

I was going to get this one.
Vortex Bubble Level Anti-Cant Device Matte

I had a hard time today figuring out that my cheap scope needed to be canted.
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TI1LSENUuCc]Canted Scope Keeps Windage Consistent - YouTube[/ame]
So I decided to look for an anti-cant devise while I was at it.

 

[NWmissouriman]

If your scope bases are level with the action and your scope is level with the bases then your cant level is set to your scope. I use the level, level, level system with three levels all set up at same time.
Wheeler Level‑Level‑Level
$19.99
Cabela's

That's a good tool to use to get the scope level to the gun, but I'm wanting to know the best choice to use during shooting, specifically at distances beyond 500 yards. Thank you for the tip though.

 

[WyoElk2Hunt]

I have the Nightforce bubble level mounted to the top ring on my scope next to the eyepiece and look at it right before i shoot to make sure it is in the center. It can be purchased from Nightforce.NightForce 30mm Top Half Ring w/Level Bubble QUICK VIEW
NightForce 30mm Top Half Ring w/Level Bubble
$75.00

 

[NWmissouriman]

I have the Nightforce bubble level mounted to the top ring on my scope next to the eyepiece and look at it right before i shoot to make sure it is in the center. It can be purchased from Nightforce.NightForce 30mm Top Half Ring w/Level Bubble QUICK VIEW
NightForce 30mm Top Half Ring w/Level Bubble
$75.00

I was considering that, but I have had trouble finding it in stock for the 34mm tube. Also, I've read about the bubble getting canted if you don't have the scope ring tightened evenly. However, unless someone gives me a better idea, that is probably the route I will take. Does it block much of your view of the elevation turret?

 

[WyoElk2Hunt]

I leave the Wheeler level level level on and tighten the top ring down on each side the same until it is tight and level. Try Extreemeouterlimits.com on line store for a 34 mm bubble.
NightForce 34mm Top Half Ring w/Level Bubble, 4 Screw
$80.00gun)
It doesn't block my view of turrets when shooting.

 

[NW Hunter]

Darrel Holland makes a nice 34mm scope level for $55. It attaches to the scope offset so you can still see your elevation turret. I like mine.

 

[bruce_ventura]

I recommend getting the style that attaches directly to the scope tube, and sticks out high and to the side. That way you can watch the bubble with your right eye while you maintain a cheek weld and watch the target with your left eye. I much prefer the Holland anti-cant indicator over the Vortex (I have both). The Holland indicator is brighter and has smoother edges. It's worth every penny.

http://www.highpoweroptics.com/hollands-scope-level-p-19830.html

 

[NWmissouriman]

Thank you guys and thanks for the link, Bruce. Are there any opinions either way about the devices that attach directly to the rail vs. the ones that attach directly to the tube? Sorry I know you guys have already answered my question, I'm just trying to get some ideas of which ones are Ok, which ones will work, and which ones to stay away from. The Holland one seems like a good idea, and will work with me shooting left handed. The price isn't bad either. Once again, thanks to everyone for their help, I appreciate it!

 

[HARPERC]

Just following along. It sounds like we are on the same track, ATACR new, rings shipped.

I decided on the US Optics swivel that mounts to the rail. I can't say that's a good, bad or idifferent choice (undelivered), but I fully understand the decision process, you're going through.

 

[NWmissouriman]

Just following along. It sounds like we are on the same track, ATACR new, rings shipped.

I decided on the US Optics swivel that mounts to the rail. I can't say that's a good, bad or idifferent choice (undelivered), but I fully understand the decision process, you're going through.

That's actually the one I was referring to. Hopefully you get yours in soon and you can tell me if you like it or not. I just want to make the best choice and have it right the first time.

 

[Outlaw6.0]

I shoot lefty too

I started with ACD's such as the Vortex, they're alright but i've found that i've given most of them away. Focusing back & forth from the scope to the level is a PITA for me. I have started using FlatLine OPS & have never looked back. The Holland is a good item however, except being fixed & always sticking out from the tube.... The Flatline can be used like the Vortex mounted above the tube or like the Holland by simply flipping the level out. Len sells them here in the LRH store, check them out. I am VERY happy with the overall quality, adjustability & function of the American Made Flatline.

Scope Level By Flatline Ops


t

 

[Dosh]

NW, lefty here also. Installed a Holland on my .257 Wby and to my amazement groups went from .730 to .422 MOA indicating I wasn't holding level. I used to just keep the horizontal crosshair aligned with the horizontal line on the target. Ordered two more Hollands for two other rifles. I also like the smooth rounded edges of the Holland , but would be nice if the torx screws both entered from the top which could reduce mounting time by 90%. Good luck