7mm STW Brotherhood - For those who shoot the 7mm Shooting Times Westerner

I also have a Ruger #1, and my rifle really likes 150 gr bullets. Mine is just under 1" at 100 yards. The Ruger has a bit of a slower twist rate than others, 1 in 9.5". Most others are 1 in 9.25" or 9". You might want to try another bullet, unless you are really set on the Bergers.

If you have the factory rings, watch them. I had mine move and twist on me. I ended up putting Millet rings on.

I have a hicks, but I have not installed it. I just have been lazy.
 
I have found that my No. 1s give best accuracy with the forearm not touching the bbl. or the front of the receiver. I bed the forearm to the hanger and relieve the wood, if necessary, to give about 1/16 in. between the bbl. and the wood, and about 1/32 in. between the wood and the front of the receiver.

There needs to be enough clearance between metal and wood so that the forearm can't touch bbl. or receiver when rested on a bag or whatever. Never seen the need for the O rings or the Hicks device or the set screw that some use. These items may be needed on some No. 1s, but I haven't needed them, yet :)

My .270 Win., .300 Win Mag and 45-70 are all sub-moa as is my unmolested 1V .22-250.

Devcon plastic steel epoxy or Brownell's Steelbed have worked for me.
 
i do not believe trigger pull affects me as i shoot my 7600 into dime size groups at 100 yards and it is as it came out of the box no work. pretty good for a pump. also my brouwning abolt does not have any work done to it and it shoot sub moa at 200 with me behind it. the only gun that i did trrigger work to is my savage accutrigger adjusted it down in wieght and polished sear engagment. again sub moa at 200.
as far as sanding and re inleting how much material can u remove i alreaded sanded it once but it still touches bad at the tip what i can tell is that it touchs the barrel the whole way. scope is a burris which i am not thrilled about and want to change but im not gonna spend a grand on a scope if this gun wont shoot to my standards
changing bullets may happen on my mind is lrx 145 and ct. i use ct in my pump and every deer ive shot is drt from 35 to 270 yards. i need something for deer shots ranging 25 to 450 im open to any ideas as i reload and am a 7mm nut four out of my eight rifles are 7mm
 
what a sad event that happened my wife and i have a little girl thats only a few years off from school and we pray nothing like that happens in our area or anywhere

i recently bought a ruger no1 stw. it doesnt shoot good at all in my opinion. 2 inch at 100 yard been loading 168g berger with rl22 just about tried every load for this combo and best was half grain over max with just over moa. at 100 ive read rl22 is better for 140 grain bullets. anyway i plan to switch to rl25 or magnum but at 336 to 350 yards it barely hits paper and i belive it is stringing. last load 168g rl22 70g coal 3.74 shot around 4 inchs at 350 yards. wonding it the hicks accurizer might be worth the investment. all groups look like a diamond at 100 yards. i hate to burn powder if its the gun \

ps load for my 7600 pump produces dime size at 100 and my loads for 7mm mag abolt and savage produce sub moa at 225 so i am capable for loads and shoot moa thanks for ur help i love this caliber

I've got a #1 in 338.. It is picky as hell about where you put the sandbags and hold it. If you rest it directly over the screw every time your grouping will improve a lot. You need to hold it there in the field too. It'll pitch cloverleafs if you do it right; 2" groups of you don't.
 
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what a sad event that happened my wife and i have a little girl thats only a few years off from school and we pray nothing like that happens in our area or anywhere

i recently bought a ruger no1 stw. it doesnt shoot good at all in my opinion. 2 inch at 100 yard been loading 168g berger with rl22 just about tried every load for this combo and best was half grain over max with just over moa. at 100 ive read rl22 is better for 140 grain bullets. anyway i plan to switch to rl25 or magnum but at 336 to 350 yards it barely hits paper and i belive it is stringing. last load 168g rl22 70g coal 3.74 shot around 4 inchs at 350 yards. wonding it the hicks accurizer might be worth the investment. all groups look like a diamond at 100 yards. i hate to burn powder if its the gun \

ps load for my 7600 pump produces dime size at 100 and my loads for 7mm mag abolt and savage produce sub moa at 225 so i am capable for loads and shoot moa thanks for ur help i love this caliber

Kakorb, a number of years ago, a friend of mine bought a #1 , in 25-06. On a good day, it wouldn't shoot 2 MOA. He was just about to dump it, and was told about a guy who knew about the bedding issues that number ones have. First, he fully floated it, and it was better, then he fully bedded it, and it turned into a REAL tack driver. That all made perfect sense, as that rifle had a beautiful barrel. Smooth from breech to muzzle. And the wood was gorgeous. Well, you couldn't pry that thing from his hands for nothing in the world. He still owns it, and will till the day he dies.
So, I wholeheartedly believe what " Dano" said is true. Don't give up on it. Once you get it to shoot, I'm sure no one will pry it from your hands either. Welcome to the Brotherhood!!
 
Kakorb, a number of years ago, a friend of mine bought a #1 , in 25-06. On a good day, it wouldn't shoot 2 MOA. He was just about to dump it, and was told about a guy who knew about the bedding issues that number ones have. First, he fully floated it, and it was better, then he fully bedded it, and it turned into a REAL tack driver. That all made perfect sense, as that rifle had a beautiful barrel. Smooth from breech to muzzle. And the wood was gorgeous. Well, you couldn't pry that thing from his hands for nothing in the world. He still owns it, and will till the day he dies.
So, I wholeheartedly believe what " Dano" said is true. Don't give up on it. Once you get it to shoot, I'm sure no one will pry it from your hands either. Welcome to the Brotherhood!!
Did I hear someone say 25-06:cool:
 
STW shooter here. Im new to this thread

Well sir, welcome aboard, and Welcome to the " Brotherhood ". We all seem to get along here, and once in a while we even learn a thing or to. WARNING, shooting this caliber has addicting affects, and could cause multiple gun syndrome. ( some of us already have it, and it is contagious ).
Feel free to ask questions, or share experiences. Enjoy the ride, and the rifle too!
Happy Holidays!!!!
 
Gamehawker, I have thought about it enough, that it has confused me enough to not not do it. I get confused on just getting the bushings dies that do not use a expander ball when resizing, but then, you need to turn the necks to get UNIFORM tension. I have not ran into case neck uniformity issues, as of yet. But usually when I run into neck tension issues, the cases have been fired enough that I discard them and start over with new brass. My brass life has been pretty good, except Federal brass. Three firings maybe, and that brass is usually toast.
If I were to use them, it would probably be for my .308, or 22-250, that I get a lot more brass life out of. And let's face it, that whole set up isn't cheap either. A lot of the bench guys do it, and I understand that, but at least for me, in THIS caliber, I don't feel the need. I understand it in principal, but as " Riverman " said, I'd probably wreck a bunch of good brass anyway.
P/S, Are you done hunting for the year? muzzleloading comes in for you next week dosen't it? Then you have a season in January for rifle season for three days too!
I might take a ride that weekend. Hehe!!!!

Hi Bob,

Thanks for the feedback about the Redding Dies. I think I'll stick with my Forster Ultra 2-Die for reloading my 7mm STWs.

Regrettably I am done deer hunting for the season. I wish you good luck in your future hunting this season.

I also wish you have a wonderful holiday season and an awesome 2013!
 
My chronagraph is done, have to get new one. What velocity would you expect with 180 Berger VLD with 73 grains of RL 25 from 28 inch barrel. I will have to guess until I get chrono. It shoots this load into basically one hole for 5 shots.
Thanks in advance
 
My chronagraph is done, have to get new one. What velocity would you expect with 180 Berger VLD with 73 grains of RL 25 from 28 inch barrel. I will have to guess until I get chrono. It shoots this load into basically one hole for 5 shots.
Thanks in advance

Around 3050fps to 3200 FPS. Depending on your bbl. Mine Shoots them right at 3000FPS with a 79g Load of Retumbo (26"bbl) which is slower than RL-25. They are seated really long and have to be shot single style.

Dan
 
I have found that my No. 1s give best accuracy with the forearm not touching the bbl. or the front of the receiver. I bed the forearm to the hanger and relieve the wood, if necessary, to give about 1/16 in. between the bbl. and the wood, and about 1/32 in. between the wood and the front of the receiver.

There needs to be enough clearance between metal and wood so that the forearm can't touch bbl. or receiver when rested on a bag or whatever. Never seen the need for the O rings or the Hicks device or the set screw that some use. These items may be needed on some No. 1s, but I haven't needed them, yet :)

My .270 Win., .300 Win Mag and 45-70 are all sub-moa as is my unmolested 1V .22-250.

Devcon plastic steel epoxy or Brownell's Steelbed have worked for me.

Jim is right on and this sounds exactly like the treatment I had to do to that one Ruger No1. to get it shooting.

They are a awesome rifle there is something special about that Fahquarson action that I am in total love with. My Father has two and I had one in 7mm Rem Mag and I wish I had it back But needed a down payment on my house really bad.

Try this stuff first.

Dan
 
My Ruger No. 1's shoot MOA with factory ammunition and if I could get a Jewel type trigger weight it would be easy to build a load to shoot less than 1/2 ". Does the trigger affect your accuracy? Triggers affect mine substantially. When my line is set and my breathing is just right, the trigger needs to go off. Any hesitation changes my POI...
Instead of holding your breath let half of it out normally and then just a very slow steady exhale. Many times if you hold your breath for very long it triggers a mile panic response which will make you twitchy and jittery.

I've seen the above be extremely helpful for lots of shooters.
 
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