Getting rid of the belt

[thatguyshm]

So I have been planning a Stevens 200 build for quite some time now. I have a brand new 300 win mag all ready to donate its action for this build, just finishing up a few other tasks before I get to it. I'm going with 300 win mag, already have a few boxes of Berger 215's, some H1000 and Retumbo, and once fired WW brass.

My question is, if I take the belt off the 300wm, leaving it to headspace off the shoulder, would I be making more of a hassel for myself, or would it be useless since neck sizing will essentially do the same thing without having to turn off the belts? It wouldn't be difficult, my father is a machinist, so he would just sit it up in his lathe.

I'm just wondering if its worth it to even try.. Any thoughts?

-shm

 

[Wapiti1]

After the first firing, you are headspacing on the shoulder, and that is what it sounds like you after. Just neck size. Removing the belt won't improve brass life over just neck sizing and annealing. It also won't have an effect on accuracy.

I would actually think that it could create safety issues since now that section of the case is unsupported. That section may not need support, but variation in brass manufacturing is enough to make me wonder if it is a good idea. The more support for the case the better from a safety standpoint. IMHO.

Jeremy

 

[FEENIX]

So I have been planning a Stevens 200 build for quite some time now. I have a brand new 300 win mag all ready to donate its action for this build, just finishing up a few other tasks before I get to it. I'm going with 300 win mag, already have a few boxes of Berger 215's, some H1000 and Retumbo, and once fired WW brass.

My question is, if I take the belt off the 300wm, leaving it to headspace off the shoulder, would I be making more of a hassel for myself, or would it be useless since neck sizing will essentially do the same thing without having to turn off the belts? It wouldn't be difficult, my father is a machinist, so he would just sit it up in his lathe.

I'm just wondering if its worth it to even try.. Any thoughts?

-shm

Too much unnecessary work not worth the efforts IMHHO.

Checkout >>> http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f17/belted-vs-non-belted-accuracy-45232/

 

[FEENIX]

After the first firing, you are headspacing on the shoulder, and that is what it sounds like you after. Just neck size. Removing the belt won't improve brass life over just neck sizing and annealing. It also won't have an effect on accuracy.

I would actually think that it could create safety issues since now that section of the case is unsupported. That section may not need support, but variation in brass manufacturing is enough to make me wonder if it is a good idea. The more support for the case the better from a safety standpoint. IMHO.

Jeremy

+1! There's no substitute for safety; Murphy does not discriminate! lightbulb

 

[thatguyshm]

Hey, thats why you ask. Thanks guys.

 

[J E Custom]

So I have been planning a Stevens 200 build for quite some time now. I have a brand new 300 win mag all ready to donate its action for this build, just finishing up a few other tasks before I get to it. I'm going with 300 win mag, already have a few boxes of Berger 215's, some H1000 and Retumbo, and once fired WW brass.

My question is, if I take the belt off the 300wm, leaving it to headspace off the shoulder, would I be making more of a hassel for myself, or would it be useless since neck sizing will essentially do the same thing without having to turn off the belts? It wouldn't be difficult, my father is a machinist, so he would just sit it up in his lathe.

I'm just wondering if its worth it to even try.. Any thoughts?

-shm

Most people that want to do away with the belt just re chamber to a non-belted case.

There is nothing wrong with a belted case, In fact there are some advantages if hunting dangerous game (The reason it was developed in the first place) because it will chamber more reliably. Also if correctly head spaced and sized it can be very accurate.

And as stated, once you fire it in your chamber, it will head space on the shoulder unless you full
length size it.

It would be a lot of trouble to remove the belt and no appreciable improvement would be gained.

J E CUSTOM

 

[AZShooter]

A friend of mine who is a 1000 BR shooter with several records to his name asked me to turn the belts off of 50 cases. He had a 300 win mag match chamber made without the belt!

I used a collet chuck and discovered that machining off every belt was a real PITA. I also noticed that some belts were not that concentric and a tiny bit was often left on one area with the rest being flush. Some minor sanding/polishing fixed them.

He later got a different reamer and included the belt. He admitted he gained nothing in removing the belt.

The only advantage in removing the belt might the brass stacking better in the magazine.

There is an advantage to having a belt. The belt helps to hold the cartridge in place for the first fireforming shot. No false neck or bullet engagement of the rifling is necessary even if the shoulder is far forward of the virgin case.

 

[Deleted member 46119]

Proven, there is no difference in inherent accuracy between belted and non-belted.

I prefer non-belted but now have belted case rifles that I really like.

The WSM is proven the equal of the WM (argue about this somewhere else please).

IMHO: Having a reamer made for the 300WM without the belt and turning off the belt is far more work than needed for no gain. I believe there could be a safety issue.

If it were me and I wanted an new high performance 30 cal (magnum) I would go:

1. 308/26 Nosler (well I already have most of the others)
2. 300 WSM
3. 300 RUM
4. 300 Wby (what can I say, the new rifle is working)
5. 300 WM

But if factory ammo availability were important, there are only 2:

1. 300WM
2. 300WSM

What little RUM factory I've tried didn't work for me and 300 Wby factory is very spendy.

 

[BountyHunter]

IF you shoot a magnum in particular, you are going to FL size or throw cases away every 4 shots. If you NS only you will get stiff bolt lift (clicks) or lock up otherwise.

Simple matter to tell the smith you are going to headspace off the shoulder and not the belt and have him set it up that way. Plus adjust your dies for that and good to go.

Forget cutting the belts off, just go for it.