Which muzzle brake??

[Veteran]

I'm pondering the idea of "braking" one of my rifles, and what I'm wanting is one that threads on and is similar diameter as the barrel. Other then those two "wants" what else should I look for in a quality and effective brake and who makes/sells them? Yes, I did google it first just didn't find a whole lot of info.

Weight of brake is not much a factor.

Thanks

You really need to go to Muzzle Brakes and More and View all of their Testing Videos using the "test sled".

To me this is the definitive way to test the recoil reduction you get from any given muzzle brake, how effective it is. I like that Nathan tests all the popular brands against his. The only one that comes close in previous films I have watched is the Terminator from New Zealand. Given that he makes his here in the U.S. and supports this forum at LRH, I have 3 of his brakes, 2 5 port beasts, for large magnums and a 4 port titanium for large rifle. They work great as opposed to being beaten to a pulp by recoil.
If you have not watched the tests, you cannot make an informed decision.

You can go on popularity and marketing, but there is nothing like TESTING.

Muzzle Brakes and More

muzzlebrakesandmore.com

 

[huntercole]

First choice would be one that's quiet but has that $200 stamp to go with it. Then I'd look at salmon river solutions. They have several options including light weight titanium ones.

 

[azarcher10x]

Check out Lrcustomsinc.com
Their brakes are bigger, but very efficient.

 

[FEENIX]

Thanks everyone for the wisdom and Definitely more options than I thought Lol

Talking with the smith 5/8 x24 threads and a OD .750 brake and taper it to the barrel is what he was going to do,so feenix's brake I'll have him cerakote matte black and should work great.

Thanks again feenix

It's heading your way.

 

[KNOTFERSAIL]

It's heading your way.

Again, thank you

 

[Dean2]

I have posted this a few times before. Makes it pretty clear, the quieter the brake the less recoil reduction you get. This chart allows a guy to balance noise vs recoil reduction. The higher the loudness rating the quieter the brake is, the higher the recoil reduction number the more it reduces recoil.

Muzzle Brake: Summary of Field Test Results

This post summarizes the eye-opening results for the massive muzzle brake field test I’ve worked on ...

precisionrifleblog.com

 

[FEENIX]

Again, thank you

It's all good, Brother Kelly. I hope it works out for your 7MM STW or other rifles. Cheers!

Ed

 

[436]

Lot of good brakes out there, but... today I'd say my favorite would be the Untradyne Apollo muzzel brake. Just my pick, you do you... as they say. Cheers

 

[tdryden01]

Area 419 or Fat Bastard

+1 for Area 419. Really nice to use muzzle brake if necessary but put on suppressor to same base device. The muzzle brake twists off to do this.

 

[FEENIX]

Major word of (caution) here! I have many guns with brakes, all side ports that work great....until this past month...I tried 2 different Extremely good brakes from Top manufacturers on my new Elite Precision 338 Lapua 30" inch tube. Neither worked....changed the harmonics Drastically, first time experience for me. Both shoot climbing strings, not something this 50 year reloader can fix. So if you experience a major shift in POI.....remove the Brake before thinking your scope just broke!

A shift in POI does not necessarily mean it is a bad MB unless one sight-in with it on and hunts with it off. In short, sight-in with your hunting configuration. Barrel harmonics in 30" esp. a in big boomer like the .338 LM is magnified. I had a similar experience with the .270 AI with a 30" barrel but I keep the MB on while hunting.



POI was ~8" high and to the right without the MB. Similarly, the 6.5 CM is 18" to the right from my suppressor to an MB.

 

[Dean2]

A shift in POI does not necessarily mean it is a bad MB unless one sight-in with it on and hunts with it off. In short, sight-in with your hunting configuration. Barrel harmonics in 30" esp. a in big boomer like the .338 LM is magnified. I had a similar experience with the .270 AI with a 30" barrel but I keep the MB on while hunting. POI was ~8" high and to the right without the MB. Similarly, the 6.5 CM is 18" to the right from my suppressor to an MB.

His concern is not the POI change, which happens with most brakes or suppressors. His issue is now the gun shoots poorly. The brake causes his groups to climb and move with both brakes, so he isn't really getting a group any more.

 

[FEENIX]

His concern is not the POI change, which happens with most brakes or suppressors. His issue is now the gun shoots poorly. The brake causes his groups to climb and move with both brakes, so he isn't really getting a group any more.

Are you saying the MBs ruined his rifle and no longer shoot even without it? That's new to me. @skipglo, clarification, please. I do not want to hijack @KNOTFERSAIL's thread; a separate thread might be better served for an open discussion and add to the knowledge base esp, for those new to muzzle devices.

 

[tim_w]

Adding a brake after load development is like cranking on a tuner equipped barrel. It changes the harmonics relative to bullet exit. Tuners only move a relatively small distance. Adding a 3" brake to a bare barrel is a huge change. Just like with suppressors tune your load with them installed. It may only take tweaking seating depth. Not only that but cutting threads especially with thin barrel walls and factory barrels can change bore/crown dimensions. As can how hard you tq the brake on.

 

[Pointman]

2 of my long-range rifles came with brakes. I'm not sure if the 6.5 CM needed one, but it's there so I don't fret about it. The other is my 338 Lapua. This one definitely needs one. I tell the person when I check in that I'm shooting this one and request a position as far away from others as possible. Still, shooting the "beast" from a bench is interesting, to say the least. I've never seen impact unless another wanted to try it out, too much muzzle flip. It does move a lot of real estate.