Brass annealer

As an option , there is a "DIY induction annealer" video on utube....it a handheld unit with a timer that goes to 1/10 of a second timing. It is semi labor intensive, but also not $1000.00 +. I had a flame annealer, and it worked decent, but this induction unit is amazing!!! And at around $300.00 with a custom cooling system for the coil, it was well within my budget. And the results are impressive. The anneal line is perfect on every case, and it "seems" to have improved the seating consistency of my rounds. I did alot of research on annealing before I built it, and honestly, there is ALOT more to it than just hitting the 750° temp and calling it good. But, as stated, I used flame annealing for a while, and it is 100% over no annealing.
 
Agree with others who say you should resize AFTER annealing.

As for trimming case length, I think this should occur early in the process -- before running the case into a sizing die. I say that because a long case neck would run THROUGH the sizing portion of the resizing die, which you don't want to do.

For trimming, I use the Lee trimmers with the case holder chucked in an electric drill. Quick and thoroughly acceptable process. I then debar and chamfer the case mouth after trimming the length, while the case is still in the electric drill.

For annealing, I use a hand-held induction heater. ~ $200 on eBay.
 
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The reason given for not tumbling loaded rounds is due to the vibration taking the coating off the powder kernels changing the burn rate. I personally never saw a difference but stopped doing it out of an abundance of caution. Just wipe off the lube.
I will definitely have to look into this. Thanks
 
Thanks that's one of the reasons for the post. To see what the best time to anneal is. Thanks

If you try resizing a couple of annealed cases and then resize a couple of cases that are "not" annealed you will find a noted difference in how easily the annealed cases go through the sizing die. Also I resize with the expander plug left out of the die and then use a Sinclair mandrel, again there's a bid difference between and annealed case and a case that is not annealed.
 
The seating difference between annealed and not on cases is incredible. Consistency is 97% (always one fly in the ointment).The accuracy improvement I saw honestly made the difference between middle of the pack and placing in matches....The details really bring winning into a high percentage... rsbhunter
 
In a time when components are difficult to source, I found the Annealez to be cost effective, provided more consistency in resizing and extended the brass life substantially. Should solve the issue you mentioned.
 
The reason given for not tumbling loaded rounds is due to the vibration taking the coating off the powder kernels changing the burn rate. I personally never saw a difference but stopped doing it out of an abundance of caution. Just wipe off the lube.
No offense intended but this is incorrect
 
Hey guys just wanted to see what your steps are in reloading process?
I started out reloading about 6-7 years ago with just the basics a rock chucker, balance beam basic reloading kit!!!
I got into reloading to save money. Haha I don't think that worked out. I have since bought a area 419 press, giraud case trimmer, and powder dispenser digital calipers and micrometer and eventually want to get into annealing.
I reload for .270 win/ 338 lapua/ 300 rum/ 300 win mag/ 6.5 creedmoor. I honestly don't shoot past 1000 yards but would like to start stretching out the lapua.
Honestly really want a amp annealer but don't think that's in the budget so leaning towards a bench source annealer. What's your thoughts on the bench source?
1. Deprime all brass on rock chucker
2. Tumble all brass (clean)
3. Lube and size brass
4. Anneal all brass (after I purchase)
5. Trim all brass
6. Wet tumble brass and dry
6. Prime brass
7. Weigh Powder
8. Seat bullets
9. Tumble ammo for 10/15 minutes to get lube off

Any advice appreciated!!! Thanks
Anneal before sizing, if you have the funds the amp machine is awesome but there are tons of great equipment that will provide the same results for a lot less money
 
I never tumble loaded rounds.
Why do you tumble ammo for 10/15 minutes to get lube off when step #6 gets the lube off?
I would anneal after cleaning but before sizing.
Because I add a little bit of lube when I seat my bullets. Thanks I think I will definitely anneal after cleaning. That makes sense after I thought about it.
 
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