Will definitely do this!! Thanks
Brass annealer
- Thread starter SHEDKING
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Citified
Well-Known Member
ButterBean:
You are probably right. Probably just another wives tale that isn't true. I just wipe mine off with a cloth.
Steve
You are probably right. Probably just another wives tale that isn't true. I just wipe mine off with a cloth.
Steve
I wipe mine off with a a cloth and rubbing alcohol but you are correct, its just gibberish, powder is mass produced, dumped into 1# and 8# containers, shipped to the retailer, shipped to us, dumped into the brass and then carried all over the place hunting, 15 minutes in a tumbler aint gonna hurt a thing, for someone to even suggest that just make's me shake my head
I set up a little differently. New cases out of the box. I setup and cut the case all to the same length to be consistence, which bevels inside and outside, at the same time. Cut the necks for thickness. Deburr the flash hole. Check the primer pocket for consistencies. volume weight the cases. Check I.D. of neck. Adjust if needed for tension. First bullets down the tube are reduced loads and bullets into lands to fireform the cases using 2nd bullets, primers I don't like, and powder I really load with except for forming the case. When annealing I clean the cases, and then anneal. Determine if I need to clean again. Set up an FL size my cases. Bumping the shoulder .001 to .002.
Fired cases Not from the rifle that's going to be used. it's a little different in set. De-prime, clean, anneal, FL sizing, Mandrel to push out necks to prep for trimming to length, and cut necks for thickness, then the other steps. I probable left out something. I don't wipe my case down with WD-40. WD-40 can work it's way into the primer pocket. Guess what?
Fired cases Not from the rifle that's going to be used. it's a little different in set. De-prime, clean, anneal, FL sizing, Mandrel to push out necks to prep for trimming to length, and cut necks for thickness, then the other steps. I probable left out something. I don't wipe my case down with WD-40. WD-40 can work it's way into the primer pocket. Guess what?
If your process works for you, excellent! I am a bit concerned that your steps state that you tumble after loading. My best hunting bud used to do this and had 1 round (30.06) detonate destroying the tumbler, partially destroying the bench, 1 of the bullets went through the wall-ending up in the living room wall. He was not in the garage at the time, thankfully for him. His wife went berserk! Please consider.
Wallie
Well-Known Member
I'll also agree with everyone saying to anneal before resizing. It makes your shoulder bump more consistent, and normalizes your neck spring back.
Mine:
Tumble clean
Anneal
Lube/Resize
Short tumble to remove lube
Trim/check flash holes for media
Prime
Load
I can only imagine all the folks recommending to wipe lube off by hand don't load the batch sizes I do… I do multiple batches of 1k for my 223AI varmint rifles (prime/throw charge/seat bullet on the Dillon, but pre-prep brass the same elsewise) and even my 220 Swift, 6XC, and 260AI I do minimum batches of 100. Wiping each case by hand would drive me insane.
www.corrosionpedia.com
I made a coil induction annealer, then a case feed based off of Dillon's, and feed it into a solenoid controlled progresser that is all ran with a programable 4 stage timer and relays.
The end result is I can dump a batch of 1k cases (223/223AI/300 BLK with one feed plate, and 6XC/260/308 with another) in the hopper, set my dwell times, and do other stuff for about an hour. I love it so much I would be extremely loathe to go back to touching each case another couple times each. Once to resize, once to prime, and once to dump powder/seat bullet. On my dillon batches it's just twice total, resize and feed into dillon.
Mine:
Tumble clean
Anneal
Lube/Resize
Short tumble to remove lube
Trim/check flash holes for media
Prime
Load
I can only imagine all the folks recommending to wipe lube off by hand don't load the batch sizes I do… I do multiple batches of 1k for my 223AI varmint rifles (prime/throw charge/seat bullet on the Dillon, but pre-prep brass the same elsewise) and even my 220 Swift, 6XC, and 260AI I do minimum batches of 100. Wiping each case by hand would drive me insane.
Bill it's probably another case of an over abundance of caution, but one should at least be aware that ammonia is corrosive to brass, and can have a metallurgical effect.
What is Ammonia Corrosion? - Definition from Corrosionpedia
This definition explains the meaning of Ammonia Corrosion and why it matters.
www.corrosionpedia.com
I also started with a flame annealer, and built an induction annealer, which I love. My goal wasn't strictly cost savings (although I agree AMP is overpriced) it was to reduce individual handling of brass via automation.
I made a coil induction annealer, then a case feed based off of Dillon's, and feed it into a solenoid controlled progresser that is all ran with a programable 4 stage timer and relays.
The end result is I can dump a batch of 1k cases (223/223AI/300 BLK with one feed plate, and 6XC/260/308 with another) in the hopper, set my dwell times, and do other stuff for about an hour. I love it so much I would be extremely loathe to go back to touching each case another couple times each. Once to resize, once to prime, and once to dump powder/seat bullet. On my dillon batches it's just twice total, resize and feed into dillon.
That's what I try to do is bump the shoulder back .002. I have never used wd-40
Jeff Heeg osoh
Well-Known Member
I throw all used brass in the tumbler to clean any dust, dirt and carbon off
Then lube and full length size with a neck bushing
On some stuff I the use a expander mandrel on the neck after sizing
Then trim cases to length if needed
Then chamfer the case mouths inside and out and clean primer pockets
Then I finally anneal everything with the Bench Source
Then a quick bath in IOSSO then rinse with hot water
Then dry using a hair dryer which is fast - the brass looks like new again.
Then prime, powder and seat the new bullet
The Bench Source has done thousands of rounds from 260, 6.5x47 308, 338 375 Cheytac to 416s it works great and is easy to setup.
why do I anneal later in the process?
when sizing brass the the shoulder bump and consistency of that can be measured using a caliper and bump gauges. And yes they are very consistent from one piece to the next. After all the work has been done to the brass then the neck/shoulder area gets annealed. This produces and very consistent seating depth of the new bullets as well as the pressure needed to seat it, also in turn it should carry the same consistency in the release of the bullet as pressure builds.
So I'm the odd duck in the crowd and have done this for years, annealing definitely save the brass from the necks getting hard and cracking but I also appreciate the accuracy as well if its only mid range or even more importantly with the big guns and expensive brass as the last 3 years now we get pushed out to 4200 yards at some events.
Either before or after its still helps annealing take the great info folks are posting and good luck shooting!
JH
Then lube and full length size with a neck bushing
On some stuff I the use a expander mandrel on the neck after sizing
Then trim cases to length if needed
Then chamfer the case mouths inside and out and clean primer pockets
Then I finally anneal everything with the Bench Source
Then a quick bath in IOSSO then rinse with hot water
Then dry using a hair dryer which is fast - the brass looks like new again.
Then prime, powder and seat the new bullet
The Bench Source has done thousands of rounds from 260, 6.5x47 308, 338 375 Cheytac to 416s it works great and is easy to setup.
why do I anneal later in the process?
when sizing brass the the shoulder bump and consistency of that can be measured using a caliper and bump gauges. And yes they are very consistent from one piece to the next. After all the work has been done to the brass then the neck/shoulder area gets annealed. This produces and very consistent seating depth of the new bullets as well as the pressure needed to seat it, also in turn it should carry the same consistency in the release of the bullet as pressure builds.
So I'm the odd duck in the crowd and have done this for years, annealing definitely save the brass from the necks getting hard and cracking but I also appreciate the accuracy as well if its only mid range or even more importantly with the big guns and expensive brass as the last 3 years now we get pushed out to 4200 yards at some events.
Either before or after its still helps annealing take the great info folks are posting and good luck shooting!
JH
- deprime
- clean primer pockets
- anneal
- size
- neck turn
- trim, deburr, chamfer
- tumble to clean
- prime
- load
Just ken
Active Member
| New Brass |
| Primer cleanup, 1 time |
| Flash cleanup 1 time |
| Neck turn, 1 time |
| Reload |
| Deprime |
| Wet tumble clean 45 min |
| Inspect |
| Anneal |
| Length_Trim |
| Chamfer mouth when trimmed |
| Sort by weight |
| FL neck die, .002 shoulder bump .004 undersize neck |
| Lube_FL size_Prime_Hand clean |
| Dry lube_Inside mandrel .002 undersize |
| Load powder |
| Seat bullet |
| Ogive length check |
| Weight check, as double check powder load |
| Final Inspect |
Think about this.... Loaded rounds.... Tumbling.... This is NEVER a good idea! Primers are sensitive to shock and static electricity. As has been previously stated, powder kernels will break down causing a change in burn rate. Don't do it.
Once again gibberish
Well, I don't know how important your ammunition is to you, but I spend a lot of time and money on making precision ammunition, for precision long range shooting, in expensive rifles, with my cheek on stock. I do not want to do anything to potentially damage my ammunition in any way. I do not believe there to be a good reason for tumble cleaning live ammunition if there is any possibility of causing a change in consistency, reliability or safety. It just is not worth it to me, especially when tumbling can be done before loading. Why risk it?
There is no risk involved, at all
