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X-bolt accuracy problems...HELP....

Dust270WSM

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 4, 2009
Messages
135
I have a browning x-bolt I am trying to get to be a shooter and it's acting really crazing and I'm kinda stumped on what's going on.

I'm a reloader and I'm trying to get the new Nosler Accu - bonds LR 168 grains to shoot in it. But gettin crazy results. I've tried IMR 7828, H-1000 and reloader 19. The reloader has been the most accurate. But the problem I have is I will get a bout a 1\2 " 3 shot group go throw another one in my reloading room go out and shoot it and it will go 1 1\2 left or right. It never stays consistent. Almost like the scope is lose or something like that. But I have a brand new Vortex PST on it lapped and I've checked all screws and the stocks screws and they are all right. And the the stock is bedded so it's tight.

Never had a rifle that will group good at one time and come back later or another day and it's left or right of where it was set at. And I hunted with 160 accus and was gettin same results. Was gettin 1/4" groups with them but would get set one day and come back another day and get similar accuracy probs.

I have ran about 100 rounds threw it and shot it over crony to. And a lot of the time the cold barrel shot and the crazy flyers the velocity would spike 75 to 100 fps than the 3 that came after the 1st round.
 
What are you using for a rest; if anything? Using a butt bag?
Have you tried another bullet (Sierra, etc.)?
First thing I'd suggest is to make sure your barrel isn't contacting the barrel channel in the stock; that it's free floated over its entire length - muzzle to recoil log - and that the clearance between the barrel and the barrel channel lin the stock is dramatically wide. I'd use a minimum clearance of two thicknesses of card stock (e.g. 3x5 card) and check the clearance immediately after firing five shots in succession.
Then, I'd look at the rest features.
Checking accuracy with a bipod is tricky. Is it the bipod neutral or loaded? Is the rear bag always in the same place, with the same weight load from the butt, is the shoulder position always the same and is the shoulder pressure always the same? Are you using natural point of aim and avoiding forcing the rifle into position to hold on target?
Several other possibilities but those are the easiest to check at first glance.
For example: If the sand bag allows for free movement of the butt on recoil it will print on target differently than if there is a slight buildup of sand bag material or filler at the base of the butt plate. Doesn't take much ......
Best to make sure the base of the butt plate is in free space with the butt bag far enough in front of it to allow for the rifle to move without interference from that venue.
 
Going to check the stock 1st. And see what clearance I have. And yes the gun moves backwards freely. Haven't tried different bullet yet but wouldn't think that would matter in it throwing them to and frow . I have a front stand " the rock I can use if the bipod is bothering it. But figured the Harris wouldn't effect the bullet like that.

Also the velocity spike confuses me to.
 
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Inconsistent MV .....
Inconsistent powder charge or contaminated powder
Powder that has been allowed to stand uncovered, exposted to moisture, etc.
Neck tension
Are you cleaning the inside of necks with wire brush?
Are you using turned brass or "out of the box" brass?
What brass is it (Lapua, Hornady, Wichester, .....)
Runout
Do you or have you checked runout of the loaded round?
Seating depth
Are you measuring seating depth CBOL?
Primer
Primer pocket and/or flash holes inconsistent due to poor quality brass or carbon build up.
Copper fouling
Do you have access to a bore scope
Inconsistent case overall length (some trimmed shorter than others)
Are you trimming cases and what gauge do you rely on to verify lengths

I've been hoping that MudRunner and perhaps J E Custom or Feenix would chime in on this. I'd like to see their ideas and opinions.
 
I have a browning x-bolt I am trying to get to be a shooter and it's acting really crazing and I'm kinda stumped on what's going on.

I'm a reloader and I'm trying to get the new Nosler Accu - bonds LR 168 grains to shoot in it. But gettin crazy results. I've tried IMR 7828, H-1000 and reloader 19. The reloader has been the most accurate. But the problem I have is I will get a bout a 1\2 " 3 shot group go throw another one in my reloading room go out and shoot it and it will go 1 1\2 left or right. It never stays consistent. Almost like the scope is lose or something like that. But I have a brand new Vortex PST on it lapped and I've checked all screws and the stocks screws and they are all right. And the the stock is bedded so it's tight.

Never had a rifle that will group good at one time and come back later or another day and it's left or right of where it was set at. And I hunted with 160 accus and was gettin same results. Was gettin 1/4" groups with them but would get set one day and come back another day and get similar accuracy probs.

I have ran about 100 rounds threw it and shot it over crony to. And a lot of the time the cold barrel shot and the crazy flyers the velocity would spike 75 to 100 fps than the 3 that came after the 1st round.
I had an A-Bolt II 7mmRemMag that did the same thing... I remedied the problem by pulling that ultra-thin browning barrel off of it and putting a new barrel on it.

This might not be the answer you're looking or hoping for, but it's what worked for me after lots of fighting it.

Now, that being said, you could also have a carbon ring buildup right at the throat of the bore. I would do more research on how to remove that. I haven't had to, so I can't give any remedies for that. I'm sure some guys on here can help you out.
 
Brass is winchester cause that's all that's out there.

All the prep on it has been done like the flash hole reamed ect ect. Trimmed accurately with the trimmer that goes off the shoulder and is in a drill.

Powder is all new.

Bullet length is just off lands.

Copper fouling might be the problem.

And how much is it to change out the barrel? Love the gun. HATE the 3 pound trigger.
 
That depends on how much your local smith charges to do the work, and how much the barrel blank costs. There's no real set answer.

You might want to contact Chris at Benchmark Barrels, as they usually run specials during the holidays and for "group buys" for members here on the forum. They can also true up your action, as well, even though most Brownings come pretty squared-up from the factory, from what I'm told.

http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f19/benchmark-barrels-group-buy-146287/
 
... HATE the 3 pound trigger.

How to Adjust Adjustable Triggers - American Rifleman

I wonder if there's a hint in that statement. Accuracy requires confidence Sequential firing may produce some trigger issues that translate into a poorly developed frustration driven trigger activation (push, jerk, etc.) after a series of shots.

I used to run into that training shooters with the 1911. Until they got used to the recoil their flinch reflex caused accuracy issues.

Just a theory ...
 
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Also try changing scopes before you mess with anything else. I don't care that it's a new scope, Vortex is always beloved for their warranty but that's because people have to use it all the time. ANY rifle scope no matter how expensive or new it is can fail.

My XBolt stock took some serious getting used to. The shape of the stock where your trigger hand sits feels nice but when I would dry fire I couldn't believe how much I was pushing or pulling shots. I spent a good hour dry firing at my target off a bench before I felt I had a good technique for that rifle. The XBolt platform is pretty light and any errors or bad form show up a lot.
 
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