Which dies are the best?

[Marble]

Got a 7 STW today. So now I need some reloading supplies for it. I have been reloading for about 20 years, but not for the purpose of trying to eek out every bit of accuracy. So I have four different powders to try and some 7mm bullets, but not the ones I want. I'll work on that later. Trying to source some other reloading components. What I really need is a really good die.

I have been a long time RCBS user and have been rather happy. But with some of their dies there is some run out variances between dies and I would like something maybe a little better. It seems like a lot of people here prefer other brands and I really don't know why. I would like to know what you guys use and why.

The press I use is an RCBS. Will any die work in it? I'm looking for a set that includes full length, neck sixing and bullet seating.

Thank you guys so much for the help.

 

[Deleted member 46119]

All dies should work.. Should that is 7/8x14 thread on your press.

Redding is the next rung up on the ladder though I prefer Forster's. Top of the crop Whidden custom.

 

[RHC]

Hornady or Redding for me.

 

[FearNoWind]

I rely on RCBS, Redding and Wilson dies. RCBS for hunting, Redding for long range and Wilson for bench rest competition.

 

[Dosh]

Marble, my best loads for long range hunting loads have come out of Redding dies. Good luck with the STW.

 

[Unofficial Gun Addict (UGA)]

I personally like the redding FL dies, lee collet dies for neck sizing, and the forster ultra micro dies for bullet seating. I think that the forster ultras are amazing and responsible more for the accuracy of my rifles than the guy behind the trigger.

 

[Deleted member 46119]

I personally like the redding FL dies, lee collet dies for neck sizing, and the forster ultra micro dies for bullet seating. I think that the forster ultras are amazing and responsible more for the accuracy of my rifles than the guy behind the trigger.

I agree 100% For long range that is my preferred combo.

 

[Trickymissfit]

the Forster seater is without a doubt the best money can buy unless you opt for an inline setup with an arbor press. If you using a factory chamber the Forster full length die will also be better than the chamber. If neck dies are a must (a total waste with unturned factory brass and a factory chamber), the best are still inline dies from somebody like Wilson. Your also going to need an Innovative Tech die sooner or later, or else be buying a lot more brass.
gary

 

[ArchAngelCD]

I agree Forster makes one of the best, if not the best micrometer seating die in the business. The cost is ~$70 but that's below those made by Redding or RCBS.
Forster Ultra Micrometer Seater Die 7mm STW

If you don't feel the need for a micrometer seating die Forster also makes a Benchrest seating die that is superior to most other seating dies. @$50 it's well worth the price.
Forster Bench Rest Seater Die 7mm STW

I don't use these dies but my shooting buddy does and I must say, they are very accurate. (I'm too cheap and nothing I shoot is all that important lol)

 

[Marble]

Thank you gentlemen! I'm going to start shopping around get something that will get me shooting.

The gun is 100% factory. But In the future, a different barrel will most likely be put on.

 

[Unofficial Gun Addict (UGA)]

If neck dies are a must (a total waste with unturned factory brass and a factory chamber), the best are still inline dies from somebody like Wilson. Your also going to need an Innovative Tech die sooner or later, or else be buying a lot more brass
gary

Heya Marble... I totally agree with trickymisfit about the neck turning. It really is critical with factory brass... And even on good lapua brass, but especially factory brass. If you google "neck turning reloading", there's a great article from the top choice that comes up that explains why it's important... And some useful tools to consider when getting started. I personally turn my necks with the k&m carbide neck turner and it does an extremely good job. I'd advise if you decide to go that route...(neck turning that is), that you don't waste time doing it by hand... Too slow and less effective. Better to buy the adapter to chuck up your case in a drill or if you have access to a lathe...even better.

All the best luck. I hope you are putting out the eyes way out there in no time. Those bulls will never see you coming.

 

[Trickymissfit]

Heya Marble... I totally agree with trickymisfit about the neck turning. It really is critical with factory brass... And even on good lapua brass, but especially factory brass. If you google "neck turning reloading", there's a great article from the top choice that comes up that explains why it's important... And some useful tools to consider when getting started. I personally turn my necks with the k&m carbide neck turner and it does an extremely good job. I'd advise if you decide to go that route...(neck turning that is), that you don't waste time doing it by hand... Too slow and less effective. Better to buy the adapter to chuck up your case in a drill or if you have access to a lathe...even better.

All the best luck. I hope you are putting out the eyes way out there in no time. Those bulls will never see you coming.

assuming the press doesn't have a lot of wear in it, and still loading for a factory chamber; the full length die will do everything you need. You don't have a minimum spec chamber and undersize neck. Just buy good brass, and take it from there. Lapua brass usually cleans up with .002" shaved off the necks (sometimes less). If the necks are concentric to within .002" TIR, I wouldn't bother shaving necks. The chamber is probably not that good! On the otherhand, I would start with a 7mm Rem. mag seater, and ream it to fit the case. Forster will sell you the sleeve, and the rest is easy. Of course using unturned brass will negate the need to ream the sleeve.

The Forster seater without the micrometer head is identical to the one with it, sans the micrometer. You can buy the micrometer head and install it on the Co-Ax seater, and you have the Ultra die. The real issue is getting the sizer concentric (no matter what die by the way). Otherwise you have garbage in and garbage out! I usually size within .001 TIR, and seat to about .0015"TIR or less. Every step adds a little error.
gary

 

[Marble]

Heya Marble... I totally agree with trickymisfit about the neck turning. It really is critical with factory brass... And even on good lapua brass, but especially factory brass. If you google "neck turning reloading", there's a great article from the top choice that comes up that explains why it's important... And some useful tools to consider when getting started. I personally turn my necks with the k&m carbide neck turner and it does an extremely good job. I'd advise if you decide to go that route...(neck turning that is), that you don't waste time doing it by hand... Too slow and less effective. Better to buy the adapter to chuck up your case in a drill or if you have access to a lathe...even better.

All the best luck. I hope you are putting out the eyes way out there in no time. Those bulls will never see you coming.

I do turn the necks on my 300 WM and my 7mm guns. They are both factory chambers. I have a tool for inside, and outside. I have never been told how to do it. But I basically do the inside first, after resizing, then the outside. With the outside I turn the micrometer until it touches the brass then test turn it to see how much brass is taken off. It seems there is always one side with a little more metal than the other. Sometimes 2/3-3/4 of the neck will have fresh shiny metal afterwards cause there is a thinner spot. I'm not really concerned with overall diameter, just making sure the metal is all about the same in thickness. After I am done I resize again to make sure I didn't do anything goofy to the neck, then check length, chamfer in and out of the end of the neck then prime.

After I am done reloading, I run each round through a concentricity gauge to see how everything turned out.

Am I wrong? Or close at least?

I have been reloading for 20 years, but mostly by reading the speer and nosler books and a lot of trial and error. I have two real old guys that I bounce questions off of when I see them. In the last few years I have taken much more time on each stage as I have become more picky about my ammo...and it's a good break from four kids.

 

[Marble]

I do not have a lathe but I have plenty of drills. I use a drill for the inside piece but not the outside. And a little extra time in at the loading is therapy.

As far as runout, it's interesting. Each one of my dies are a little different. My 7rm will range from .002 -.008 after being completely loaded, 7-08 AI and 300wm is around .002-.004 and the 300 rum is .005 give or take .001.

I have been looking around for an old drill press with an adapter to I can speed up the neck turning process.....

Appreciate the help gents. I race cars and spend a lot of time discussing that topic with my buddies, but I am on this forum much more, absorbing the experiences of guys that have been doing this as long as I have been alive.