Which die set is best?

Bouieboy

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Feb 27, 2011
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I have a T mag II turret press and a few custom rifles. I'm not a competition shooter, but I do want consistency when loading berger bullets. I have RCBS dies for several calibers and have seen nearly zero consistant COAL. Without breaking my bank account, what should I get? Oh, I'm loading a 300 WSM now...later I'll load for 7-08, 7mm WSM, and 270 WSM. P.S. Where can I get these recommended dies?
 
"Without breaking my bank account, what should I get? "

Personal favorites aside, there is no consistant average difference in the quality of ammo that can be made on any brand of dies. Advertizing claims aside, other than Forster/Redding comp dies, there is a much variation between individual dies of the same maker as there is between makers.

I don't know what "nearly zero consistant COAL" means. ??
 
With standard RCBS dies, the COAL is consistently different with berger bullets. That's the same with reloading my 300 WSM, 30-06, 7mm-08, and 2 308 win. For some reason, the 270 WSM I'M loading for gives no problems. With all of these calibers, in 7 months, I've load +1500 rounds...all with RCBS dies. I'm hearing that the tip of the bullets are hitting the top of the seating die and that is making since to me. I'm very careful with my brass selection, trimming, powder measuring, elc., I'm wanting a better seating die.
 
Well, what makes sense is if the meplats are hitting a positive stop in the seating plug the COALs should be absolutely consistant; runout may be poor but the over-all length should be very precise. ??

IF there was a 'best' die set, or even one that is better than others - on average - they would soon capture the die market. That hasn't happened because - on average - any brand of dies is fully capabile of loading high quality ammo.
 
Call RCBS and tell them you would like to order a seater plug for your dies that will seat the Berger bullet. If they don't already make one they can certainly make one up for you custom. I am sure your not the first person who has run into this problem before. If you get nowhere with them, which is highly unlikely, you could always try Lee dies. They do have seater plugs that work with the Berger VLD bullet. They're a good die and won't hurt your wallet too.
 
I load all standard or shorter cartridges (30-06, WSM etc. . .) length on a T-Mag. I like the press and take the time to precisely set up dies using "O" rings under the sizing and seating dies and a small "O" ring under the seating stem. I use mostly Redding dies and have found them easy to set up and now you may order the VLD micrometer stem as an add on. As others stated most dies will work if proper care is taken setting them up. I'm sure I will get flamed for this but I got my first set of RCBS dies with the purchase of a used rifle and after using Redding, Forster and Lee (yes Lee) the RCBS dies SUCK! They are very hard to set up and my run out was higher than any other die, I just ordered a set of Reddings to replace them.
 
Are your measurements taken off the ogive or the actual tip of the bullet? You will get a more cosistant seating depth measurement if you measure off the ogive than you would off the tip unless you are pre-measuring and sorting each bullet by length and weight. You are going to find not every bullet in a lot is going to be exactly the same length. Your main concern should be is the ogive in the same position on each round and no so much the actual OAL.

Measure off the ogive and you should see better consistancy but first make sure you're using the right seater plug in your die for the type of bullet you are using. A VLD bullet is not the same as a typical pointed/tipped bullet. The ogive on a VLD bullet is set further down from the tip and your seater plug needs to make contact with the ogive.
 
If you are looking for an inexpensive modification to your existing seating die, one might give the following a try before buying a new die set.

To eliminate the bullet tip bottoming out in the seating plug, a pressure ring on the ogive and perhaps some concentricity problems one can modify a replacement seating stem for a few bucks. The modified stem will be an exact match for the particular bullet used. Here's how I did it to a 7mm RM Hornady die I use.

Purchase a replacement seat stem and some epoxy. I used a JB Weld that mixes to a very thick consistancy. Thicker is better than thinner. You'll see why in a moment. You will also need a mold release agent. I had a can of a silicone based agent from another project using fiberglass. Select a bullet with a good point on it; not dinged up or otherwise damaged. Coat the bullet liberally with mold release and seat it in a dummy case. More release agent on the "cartridge." Next disassemble the die and coat the die, inside and out, with release agent. don't be shy with the release agent. This will make any cleanup much easier later. Next, mix enough epoxy to fill the NEW seat stem and fill the stem. Use a tooth pick to force the epoxy to the bottom and to get the inevitable air bubble out. Now before the epoxy sets up and you need to move quickly here otherwise a thin epoxy will run out; re-assemble the die with the epoxy filled stem and screw the die to the press. Run the dummy cartridge up into the die to the point where the bullet just starts to seat a little deeper AND STOP! FREEZE! Don't move the ram. I put a work glove on the ram handle to weight it so it wouldn't move. Let the epoxy setup undisturbed. i.e. come back the next day. Once the epoxy is cured, remove and disassemble the die. Clean up any runs or drips and clean the release agent off everything.

You now have a seating stem that will exactly match the bullet you are using. If you change to a different bullet later, simply repeat the process with the new bullet. Don't forget to label each stem! I got lucky with my 7mm Rem Mag die when I did this for Berger 168 VLD's. The loaded bullets are always concentric to less than .0005". So far, if the runout is greater, the case has been the culprit.

I still bought a Redding S neck die and Comp Seater So I could use those features but when I load Berger 168 VLD's, it's the modified Hornady die I use. someday I'll do the same to the Redding die.

If you do try this, make a few dry runs first so one is able to move quickly without having to 'backup.' And use plenty of release agent. So You know I'm not perfect, I screwed up a reasonably good .223 die by not putting enough release agent on it. Now I cannot get the last remnants of misplaced epoxy off and of course, it doesn't work so good now.

Does anyone know how to remove epoxy without using heat?
 
Doesn't a check for $7.95 to cover return shipping along with your seating die and 5 bullets or something like that sent to RCBS get your a custom made seating plug for that bullet?
 
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