What is the proper way? Lug

thork91

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May 2, 2008
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Location
northern New York , Sacandaga area
I have a Kimber hunter in 6.5 creedmoor, when I put action into stock and action screws snug I can move barrel forward,backwards .is there something wrong? Holding gun upright so that the barrel lug contacts stock square I have to center barrell in forearm and the torque front screw then back screw, is this right. The gun is pillar beded, no other visable bedding, lug is in a slot, webbed forearm looks all poly, barrell floated , I should bed the pillar right, suggestions? I can shoot 4 inch group at 100 which sucks, I can hit paper plate constantly, I cool gun off after three shots , no matter what I can't get the first two close. I believe the action moves,
 
Check to make sure your screws are not bottoming out before they apply pressure between stock & action you should not be able to move the barreled action once screws are even snug. with forearm screw snug will the bolt open?
need more info but best guess is your pillars are too long.
 
Check to make sure your screws are not bottoming out before they apply pressure between stock & action you should not be able to move the barreled action once screws are even snug. with forearm screw snug will the bolt open?
need more info but best guess is your pillars are too long.

If I snug the screws I can't move the action , if I slightly loosen I can move it a hair forward and back, I believe because the action screws are smaller than the pillar holes. The bolt will open easy. When slightly loose I can move barrel left and right slightly. I'm new at this ,So if I set on floor with barrel up, screws loose, let lug touch back inside stock. Make sure it looks straight then snug screws, then torque is this the right way to assemble? The screws should not touch inside of pillars,right. It seams that when screws are centered the lug might not be touching. It should right. I think the screws touch when Back of lug is making contact. This would not be good right?
 
i would bed the action or have it bedded. Your barreled action should not be moving side to side or front to back with snug screws. In fact correctly bedded you should have to work a bit to the get the barreled action free of the stock without any screws installed. it will be difficult in my opinion to ever get the rifle to shoot well until it is bedded. just sounds too loose to me. Bedding is fairly easy but I wouldnt practice on a Kimber. Gumsmith will do it right for under $200 and you'll have a nice shooter
 
If I snug the screws I can't move the action , if I slightly loosen I can move it a hair forward and back, I believe because the action screws are smaller than the pillar holes. The bolt will open easy. When slightly loose I can move barrel left and right slightly. I'm new at this ,So if I set on floor with barrel up, screws loose, let lug touch back inside stock. Make sure it looks straight then snug screws, then torque is this the right way to assemble? The screws should not touch inside of pillars,right. It seams that when screws are centered the lug might not be touching. It should right. I think the screws touch when Back of lug is making contact. This would not be good right?
DO NOT bed the pillars!
The pillars NEED that gap to function, no screw should be touching a pillar or stock.
The forward and aft movement is for ease of disassembly, otherwise the action would bind in the bedding and be a PITA to remove.

I think you'll find the action and barrel are bedded, I know my Kimbers are.
The way I do it, place action in stock with all necessary hardware, such as mag box, put rearward pressure on the barrel, and FINGER tighten the FRONT screw, then FINGER tighten the rear screw, check for ANY movement, then when the action is settled in the stock, tighten the front screw to full tightness then the rear screw just slightly less than the front screw, maybe 5inch/lbs difference.
The stock and action should self align doing it this way.

To check contact points, we use either prussian blue dye or smoke soot from a candle. Soot/blue the bottom of the action, do as above, remove and check to see if it's possible the screws are touching the pillars, if the are, you'll need to relieve them.

Hope this helps you out.
4" groups are not acceptable in anyone's book.

Cheers.
gun)
 
This Kimber is a Hunter model, it only has pillars the rest is plastic/poly, the lug lays in a slot, there was s no bedding the Montana,elite and Adirondacks are ,this is the new cheaper one.
 

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91, bedding material does not bond to plastic very well. Perhaps a bedded aftermarket stock is an option, it's well worth the effort in accuracy and appearance. Good luck
 
Thank you for replying, I will bed this stock ,it is one of those one stock fits all . It is new I payed $500 a guys girlfriend bought the wrong gun for him on his birthday and he traded in for the $1800.00 mountain elite. From what I have seen the Hunter is basically the same except the elite is fluted, beded, skeletonized bolt, and fancy camo I like the gun if I can get it to shoot better, it is 5.8lbs without bullets.
 
DO NOT bed the pillars!
The pillars NEED that gap to function, no screw should be touching a pillar or stock.
The forward and aft movement is for ease of disassembly, otherwise the action would bind in the bedding and be a PITA to remove.

+1

Place the barreled action in the stock without installing the action screws and turn the rifle upside down. Look in/through the Pillars and look to see if the action screw threads are centered in the pillars (There should be space all round the pillars for screw clearance.

Holding everything together, move the barreled action back and forth to make sure there is still clearance around the screws. Be sure and push the barreled action back as far as it will go. (This is where it will/should end up after firing unless the action screws are holding it off.

If the action screws are touching the pillars, they become recoil lugs and can cause inconsistent
accuracy.

If this condition exist, you can ether enlarge the hole in the pillars or re bed the action with the screws centered. (I use electrical shrink tubes on the screws to center them, and after bedding, I remove it to get the clearance needed).

J E CUSTOM
 
I did the above with screws out when I push back holes are center, I can push forward a tiny bit and the holes are off. I been playing with it and possibly a problem were the lug is touching the plastic stock, no bedding, I can see slight scuff marks on one side of the flat surface were the back of the lug touches. It must Not t be square to lug.I am going to bed the lug maybe to make it square?
 
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