Some brass not bumping back

[nksmfamjp]

Lol......can you explain how the comp shell holders only work one direction.

The normal shell h9lde4 is +0.000". Touching off on the die is as short as you can make cbtd. Putting in the +0.002" die moves the case 0.002" away from the die while still touching off on the base of the die. Thus cbtd is 0.002" longer.

What this person and most are looking for is the -0.002" shellholder….which is not made! Putting a 0.002" feeler gage under the case should get you that.

 

[nksmfamjp]

The cam over force should be noticeable higher than the force required to drive the brass into the die.

Good point. An additional point is check this when sizing a case. Which just die and shellholder, you will get cam over early, but when sizing, there is enough force that the die is pushed away from shellholder a couple thousandths.

 

[Pdvdh]

I've had to grind 0.020" - 0.025" off the base of resizing dies. I've also shaved that much off the top face of shell holders. I ain't skeered...

This talk of 0.002" increment shell holders is too funny. Once you've established sufficient clearance between those two surfaces, then just adjust the resizing die for proper 0.002" - 0.003" shoulder setback.

If you've got a drill press to spin the resizing die in, and a metal cutting blade to hold against the bottom of the rotating resizing die, it's easy peasy.

Confirm the location of interference first. Then you can solve the mystery. Cuz it's no longer a mystery.

 

[Beluebow]

The normal shell h9lde4 is +0.000". Touching off on the die is as short as you can make cbtd. Putting in the +0.002" die moves the case 0.002" away from the die while still touching off on the base of the die. Thus cbtd is 0.002" longer.

What this person and most are looking for is the -0.002" shellholder….which is not made! Putting a 0.002" feeler gage under the case should get you that.

You are correct.....but that's not using the shell holders to their full potential and only one direction.....

If you set the die up with the #10 and go backwards it gives you a full range of shoulder bump in .002 increments up to .008 (maybe /maybe not you need to test each one in order)...

The typical scenario is you set your resizing die and the brass becomes work harden needing more shoulder bump. Very seldom (unless you set your die up wrong to begin with) do you need less shoulder bump.

Would you agree with that or am I off in left field?

 

[bultinkle]

If you're going to back the die out so that you're not doing metal contact what's the advantage of the shell holder set over just screwing the die in more when needed? Convenience?

 

[DoneNOut]

The normal shell h9lde4 is +0.000". Touching off on the die is as short as you can make cbtd. Putting in the +0.002" die moves the case 0.002" away from the die while still touching off on the base of the die. Thus cbtd is 0.002" longer.

What this person and most are looking for is the -0.002" shellholder….which is not made! Putting a 0.002" feeler gage under the case should get you that.

Bummer.
I finally got a clear head wrapped on this. My problem is I need that negative .002.

Redding competition die set is for cartridges/die combinations that allow a case to be bumped too much. Or in other words, the case is blown to a point the die can bump it.

In my case, my die shell holder combo won't allow any bump, no matter how far I screw the die in. Oh well, maybe it will come in handy with other cartridges...

I'll need to try the feeler gauge, or put something under the case...

 

[Philward]

I'll need to try the feeler gauge, or put something under the case...

Definitely the first step before buying other components.

 

[jensenj71]

I backed off dies to manage shoulder bump for years before I realized how much better results I could get with Redding competition shell holders with a solid cam over. If you are backing off and setting the die to get your desired bump on the first piece of brass don't measue the rest of them. I made the mistake of checking each piece and getting 0.002" plus or minus 0.001" on all pieces was pretty tough. Granted, annealing made it easier. I could usually find a spot where the shorted ones were just right and I could cycle longer ones twice to get them closer or set them aside to cycle with the die turned down slightly more.

Nothing wrong with floating the die if you have the time and patience to manage the process.

If you are only doing it to minimize the work on the brass then perhaps a larger tolerance on shoulder set back is completely reasonable. If the die would normally push back the shoulder 0.010" then backing off the die to get a 0.002" to 0.005" bump makes sense. I wanted all of the brass between 0.002 and 0.003.

In this case, the headspace of the firearm is less than the headspace of the die and shell holder assuming there is complete contact between the die and shell holder. There could be contact at the high points, but more force may drive die to full contact. A firm cam over consistently drives everything to the same dimensions independent of other variables.

 

[BobHu]

Annealing makes all things better. You'll have more consistent neck tensions and better velocity spreads, more consistent seating depths and longer case life. You don't have to spend a fortune on an amp. Try an annealeze machine or even putting them in a socket, chucked up in a drill, to spin them is better than nothing. You'll get your money back in brass life

You can get an Annealeze for $275.00

 

[Jasbo]

Bummer.
I finally got a clear head wrapped on this. My problem is I need that negative .002.

Redding competition die set is for cartridges/die combinations that allow a case to be bumped too much. Or in other words, the case is blown to a point the die can bump it.

In my case, my die shell holder combo won't allow any bump, no matter how far I screw the die in. Oh well, maybe it will come in handy with other cartridges...

I'll need to try the feeler gauge, or put something under the case...

G'evening, I experienced your scenario and called Redding because I had the 0.010 setup and did NOT get a bump. Answer from Redding Tech; my brass (7-08) had not grown suffice after the first firing…still short of SAAMI. Hence, many suggestions on these Forum threads that 3+ loading cycles may be needed to fill your chamber.

 

[DoneNOut]

G'evening, I experienced your scenario and called Redding because I had the 0.010 setup and did NOT get a bump. Answer from Redding Tech; my brass (7-08) had not grown suffice after the first firing…still short of SAAMI. Hence, many suggestions on these Forum threads that 3+ loading cycles may be needed to fill your chamber.

My twice fired AI brass is tight chambering when closing the bolt. I see a little ring formed on the case shoulders.
I think I'm there. I think I'm short in the die. Custom reamer and chamber job.

 

[Jasbo]

Roger that. Thankfully Shell Holders are a great value!

 

[M1A1ABRAMS]

You can get an Annealeze for $275.00

On sale for $238.00 right now. Is the $275 after tax & shipping ? I did notice they were $268
Edit: For anyone interested ? Just bought one. Shipped FREE for a total of $238.00. Better get one before they're gone. Or the price goes back to ???

 

[M1A1ABRAMS]

On sale for $238.00 right now. Is the $275 after tax & shipping ? I did notice they were $268
Edit: For anyone interested ? Just bought one. Shipped FREE for a total of $238.00. Better get one before they're gone. Or the price goes back to ???

Correction on the annealer. I bought the EP Annealer for $238.00. I liked the design better than the Annealize. No rubber wheels to deal with. I think I can design a self feeding system if needed. If I get into quantity. But I am impressed with the design & function for the cost. Not as large a machine as I thought it might be. Which is a plus for the workbench space.