Some brass not bumping back

Zactly!!

In your case, what other people said about taking some metal from the mouth of the die, has to be done. Not all dies come out to spec and somebody's off day on Quality Control can land you in a bad place.

Me? I'd never try taking that metal away from the die mouth. Ensuring a flat angle is there after you've finished is beyond my skill set. Might be worth asking other people just how to go about it though.
I would not be scared to take a belt sander (36 grit) to a shell holder. Just go slowly. Not a lot of pressure while sanding. It may get a little warm, so vice grips may be needed. And measure often. Shell holders are cheap enough. As someone else suggested.
 
I was considering a mini lathe in the future to play with. My neighbor has a Grizzly. Fairly nice size. He makes shotgun barrels and chokes
To skim necks on my bench, I went with 21st Shooting Inc's lathe. Kind'a pricey, but it worked well for my limited need. The lathe set me back all of 250 bucks when I bought it. Price is triple that now, so the Grizzly may definitely be the way to go (investment wise).

I think 21st Shooting Inc may have gone under. The website link I had for them leads to a fertility clinic now. You can still find their products at re-seller sites.
 
To skim necks on my bench, I went with 21st Shooting Inc's lathe. Kind'a pricey, but it worked well for my limited need. The lathe set me back all of 250 bucks when I bought it. Price is triple that now, so the Grizzly may definitely be the way to go (investment wise).

I think 21st Shooting Inc may have gone under. The website link I had for them leads to a fertility clinic now. You can still find their products at re-seller sites.
Perhaps the fertility clinic needs a donation, to direct you, to the correct website ?
 
Perhaps the fertility clinic needs a donation, to direct you, to the correct website ?
I load for 10 calibers. Each die is 'permanently' mounted so the only variables happen at the top of the die or a shellholder swap (below the die). I 'felt' I had to do this, because the dies I'd get from some factory weren't any better than 'factory quality'.

The machinist(s) at 21st had craftsmanship that left nothing to be desired. I purchased a die body for each rifle caliber I needed to neck turn. They're virtually the same, but the reason I bought the 'extra' ones was so I didn't have to move them around in my turrets and could keep the one for my single stage right on-hand. But, I found I could take any one of those die bodies (bought over a span of several years) and substitute it anywhere in my loading process without a visual variance. IOW, the way they cut the threads into the dies never once changed. If anything was ever off-kilter, it was something I was doing and I could spot that right away.

If you opt-in on a Grizzly, let me know so I can be jealous. 🤣
 
To skim necks on my bench, I went with 21st Shooting Inc's lathe. Kind'a pricey, but it worked well for my limited need. The lathe set me back all of 250 bucks when I bought it. Price is triple that now, so the Grizzly may definitely be the way to go (investment wise).

I think 21st Shooting Inc may have gone under. The website link I had for them leads to a fertility clinic now. You can still find their products at re-seller sites.
 
I'm now new to reloading but I am going into this fully expecting and hoping this is a simple issue and I'm just overlooking something, or didn't know something's Happens to us all :)

Iirc that thread was concern of variance, while my issue is just not being able to move the shoulder of a small number of cases at all.
Have u tried annealing the stubborn ones? I know!
Once fired Lapua. Can't hurt!
 
metals have a property called "modulus of elasticity". For brass, every time you fire (stretch) it and then resize it you have changed that parameter. Your bras that will not "push back at the shoulder" has a higher modulus of elasticity from being worked. The only way you can change that parameter back to a level where you can get the shoulders to not spring back is to anneal. The reason for annealing is to reset the modulus of elasticity to as close to the same value as you can get for each piece of brass. Otherwise, you will see what you have now. The other thing to do is check inside the case at the base of the neck for donuts.
 

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