• If you are being asked to change your password, and unsure how to do it, follow these instructions. Click here

scope power question.

wilson1080

New Member
Joined
Apr 21, 2013
Messages
2
Location
Northern Colorado
I am looking for a decent scope with high power. I'm either going to replace my 3x9 on my 300 win or my 4x12 on my .270. Or I might just buy a beater rifle like a marlin X7, rem 770, or a vangaurd 2. (25-06 or .257 whby if Vangaurd 2). Everytime I go to the "fill in the blank" sportmans store, I tell these guys what I'm looking for and the first thing they put in my hands is a Swarovski in my hands, which I will eventually get, but when I finally buy that Mark V, or BAR safari that I plan on making a family heirloom.
I hunt antelope in Wyoming every year, in the last 3 years I have tagged 9. So obviously I'm not having trouble, but there have been countless 300-500yd shots that I could have taken but I couldn't tell if it was the right target so I sit there staring through glass, either range finder, binoculars, or my scope and next thing I know its about 8-10am and all the animals are going to bed down. Out of the 9 I have tagged none have been inside 250yrds. My main purpose for the questions below are because I want to be able to take confidnet and ethical shots ranging out to 500-700 yards, for the thrill and the increase in possiblitly.

So I have a multi-part question centered scope powers.

1) Why are people so reluctant to use scopes with (5-6.5)x(18-24) on anything other than varmit and targets?

2) do they lose their zero from recoil easier than a lower power scope, does high magnifications get really blurry and/or hard to see through?

3) If I am hunting in open Wyoming hills which provide little to no cover, and the average distance I can get is around 300-400yds, and I already have 2 other rifles that are scoped and zeroed for 100-300yd shooting, then why would'nt I want a scope with the bottom end power between 5-6.5 and top end 18-25?

4) Given by maxed out I mean 16-17 on a 6x18 or 20-22 on a 6x24, would a 6-18, 50mm have a clearer sight picture at maxed out magnification than a
6-24, 42mm?

5) with everything said above, any recommendations in the $200-$500 range? I have 2 nikkons and I have been looking at Burris and leo. Im not afraid to possibly go up to the $700, I'd rather have a good scope on a cheaper gun than a cheap scope on anything.
 
It's all personal preference. In your price range, look at the Millet LRS, Vortex Viper 6.5-20 or 5-15, Nikon Buckmaster 4.5-14 or 6-18, or the Meuller Tac II. I have the Buckmaster 4.5-14 and love it. I would and have ran that scope to 1000 yards on steel. At 1000, the cross hair buries the groundhogs, but would work fine for deer and antelope. Clear through all ranges. I have also used the Buckmaster in the 6-18 with equal success and traded up to the Viper 6.5-20. I really like Vortex and Nikon scopes. Welcome to LRH
 
i shoot competitively F-class taget shooting i have used 6.5-20, 36, 8.5-25 and the best is a 12-42 NF. for hunting i use a 6.5-20 and an 8.5 -25 on my long range senderos. mine track perfectly. the 300WM is an excellent long range round it can use a high power scope for elk or what ever. clear glass and reliable scopes question - i believe you get what you pay for. i do have a votex it was around 300 and the bushnell 4200 was around 375. both work., better to have ONE Good rifle and scope . do not get a 770. the vanguards with guarantee sound ok. you do not say what your rifles are. the last two bulls i shot were at 11 and 26 yards with a 30-06.
 
For long range shooting, 24x or 18x isn't necessary. 10X will be fine for big game at long range, if you shoot a lot. I have a 6-24 Sightron SIII on my 300wm and it is more power than I need. To get a clear picture at long range on that power you need to buy high quality glass.
 
I really like Vortex and Nikon scopes. Welcome to LRH

+1 for the Vortex PST SFP. A little more than $700 MSRP but has many of the LR features of a high quality scope within a more reasonable price range.
 
First off, thanks to you guys that responded and your replies were helpful.

My two rifles are 300win savage edge with a pro staff 3x9 and my .270win is a vanguard 1 with a pro staff 4x12.

Considering both my rifles are nothing special, but they are consistent and reliable I'm leaning towards just getting a scope with higher magnification. I gonna wait until I can afford a Mark 5 or a browning BAR with a solid 3x18 swarovski.

With all replies taken into account. Do you guys think I would be better off putting my 4x12 on the 300win and getting a stronger scope for my .270?
 
I am looking for a decent scope with high power. I'm either going to replace my 3x9 on my 300 win or my 4x12 on my .270. Or I might just buy a beater rifle like a marlin X7, rem 770, or a vangaurd 2. (25-06 or .257 whby if Vangaurd 2). Everytime I go to the "fill in the blank" sportmans store, I tell these guys what I'm looking for and the first thing they put in my hands is a Swarovski in my hands, which I will eventually get, but when I finally buy that Mark V, or BAR safari that I plan on making a family heirloom.
I hunt antelope in Wyoming every year, in the last 3 years I have tagged 9. So obviously I'm not having trouble, but there have been countless 300-500yd shots that I could have taken but I couldn't tell if it was the right target so I sit there staring through glass, either range finder, binoculars, or my scope and next thing I know its about 8-10am and all the animals are going to bed down. Out of the 9 I have tagged none have been inside 250yrds. My main purpose for the questions below are because I want to be able to take confidnet and ethical shots ranging out to 500-700 yards, for the thrill and the increase in possiblitly.

So I have a multi-part question centered scope powers.

1) Why are people so reluctant to use scopes with (5-6.5)x(18-24) on anything other than varmit and targets?

2) do they lose their zero from recoil easier than a lower power scope, does high magnifications get really blurry and/or hard to see through?

3) If I am hunting in open Wyoming hills which provide little to no cover, and the average distance I can get is around 300-400yds, and I already have 2 other rifles that are scoped and zeroed for 100-300yd shooting, then why would'nt I want a scope with the bottom end power between 5-6.5 and top end 18-25?

4) Given by maxed out I mean 16-17 on a 6x18 or 20-22 on a 6x24, would a 6-18, 50mm have a clearer sight picture at maxed out magnification than a
6-24, 42mm?

5) with everything said above, any recommendations in the $200-$500 range? I have 2 nikkons and I have been looking at Burris and leo. Im not afraid to possibly go up to the $700, I'd rather have a good scope on a cheaper gun than a cheap scope on anything.
At the ranges you are talking about a 3.5-10 or 4.5x14 or 4-16 is going to do the job very well. I've shot rabbits and prairie dogs out to 500 with a 3-10x44 Zeiss Conquest without any problems and bobcats and coyotes out to and beyond 1,000yds with the same in 4.5-14.

The best overall VALUE in a scope for what you are looking to do is probably a used Zeiss Conquest 4.5-15x44 (or x50mm) or a Leupold 4.5-14x50, or the good ole Vortex Viper PST in 4-16x50. You can find any of the above used from around 450.00 up to around 900.00 if you shop classifieds and Ebay carefully.

The LRH classified section is a great place to shop and many of us have had good deals there. I've bought a half dozen off of ebay and never been stung either.

You can spend more without a doubt, but you don't have to if you aren't planning on stretching it out past 1,000yds.

Avoid the cheap "bargain brands" however because while some folks get lucky and get a good one now and again, that is not the rule and there's nothing that screws up a hunt like scope troubles except maybe realizing you just drove a thousand miles or more with your custom odd caliber gun and forgot your ammo!
 
Warning! This thread is more than 12 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.
Top