Rust removal????

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing' started by robert6715, Aug 17, 2018.

  1. robert6715

    robert6715 Well-Known Member

    Feb 7, 2012
    Greetings all,

    I found a Remington Nylon 66 at the dump. It was very rusty & the action was seized up. Upon disassembly with LOT'S of Kroil, I found the firing pin free & moving & was able to get all other parts moving.

    The rifle was found amongst a bunch of old Halibut fishing gear, & I suspect it was used as a Halibut shooter (lots of external exposure to salt water). The internals are not that bad considering how rusty the outside is. The rifling actually looks pretty nice after only 3 passes with a brass brush soaked in Kroil.

    My question's are as follows.

    #1 What to use to remove all the rust on the internal parts? I live very remote in Alaska & ordering liquid's is almost IMPOSSIBLE. I have Ospho, which is a rust converter (changes iron oxide to iron phosphate).

    #2 Will the rust converter change the outside dimensions? Obviously, if the conversion from iron oxide to iron phosphate adds to the overall size of a part, its a no go.

    #3 Am I wasting my time trying to resurrect a free firearm? I know it's only a 22LR

    #4 Should I just cut the receiver into 3 pieces to dispose of it properly & leave well enough alone.

    Thanks in advance
  2. marioq

    marioq Well-Known Member

    Jan 7, 2012
    Tagging in. I had moisture in my safe and my guns got some rust. Even the ones cerakoted!!! Can’t believe it.
    Anyway I would like to hear too
  3. cohunt

    cohunt Well-Known Member

    Jan 21, 2016
    Naval jelly or krud kutter....i wouldn't use a rust converter I'd stay with the rust remover....but they all contain acid so I'd keep them out of the bore since they could damage the rifling.

    Muriatic acid actually works the fastest but it can easily eat the base metal too if your not careful
    Last edited: Aug 26, 2018
  4. MagnumManiac

    MagnumManiac Well-Known Member

    Feb 25, 2008
    Molasses will dissolve rust and leave the steel bright and shiny......after several weeks or months.
    Vinegar will also remove rust, however, it will not eat the pits out cleanly.
    Scrubbing with oil soaked (any oil) and 00-0000 steel wool will also remove rust.

    A buffing wheel is the fastest method I know of.

    Hope this helps.

  5. shortgrass

    shortgrass Well-Known Member

    Mar 31, 2010
    Bead blast with glass beads. That won't cause any dimensional change in the parts. After glass beading, the outside cover will really show the pitting that is beneath the rust. Decide then if you will save it, part it out, or cut it up. Kinda' sounds like a piece of junk that belonged in the trash, to me. I'd probably part it out, as Nylon 66 parts have some value.
    jrock likes this.
  6. Bravo 4

    Bravo 4 Well-Known Member

    Jul 20, 2007
    I would also have your local police department run the serial number through NCIC to make sure it hasn’t been reported stolen.
  7. LoneTraveler

    LoneTraveler Well-Known Member

    Feb 7, 2014
    Being a retired Wild Life Officer I would go with having the rifle being run through NCIC. It may be actual evidence in a crime. It could be stolen. Or used in a crime.
  8. KyCarl

    KyCarl Well-Known Member

    May 10, 2017
    If you go to the law they will just find some excuse to take it!
    I like the maroon colored Scotchbrite to clean up smaller parts.
  9. piute

    piute Well-Known Member

    Jan 21, 2011
    Best stuff I used for cleaning metals is "Evapo-Rust", no acid.
  10. Ckgworks

    Ckgworks Well-Known Member

    Mar 6, 2018
    robert6715 likes this.
  11. ragsflh

    ragsflh Well-Known Member LRH Team Member

    May 4, 2011
    soak in white will eat rust.still has the pits but it will eat all rust.blast in soda beads or will never get all pits out.get rust off,creote paint,flat black grill paint works too
  12. clemens

    clemens Well-Known Member

    Jul 31, 2010
    Look up product call metal rescue. Non toxic. Safe on wood, plastic, safe on skin, bio degradable,
  13. johnlittletree

    johnlittletree Well-Known Member

    Apr 13, 2018
    Evapo-Rust is a chelating agent that only chelates iron oxide not healthy steel. It is not remotely like an acid it is very similar to chelation used to remove heavy metals like lea from human beings.

    If you have a lot of time Molasses and water works well.

    My last choice is fast but you have to understand how electricity behaves as it relates to both electroplating and the removal of unwanted oxides.

    Just keep in mind that anything that removes rust is going to remove blueing as well. When I was in elementary school maybe middle school the only method I knew of was using acids and steel wool to card.
    Hand Skills likes this.
  14. cheechin

    cheechin Well-Known Member

    Jun 28, 2018
    One of the few that won't further degrade the bluing is this one:

    Buy a can of Kroil.
    Liberally apply a coat of Kroil to the rusty areas and allow to soak at least 24 hours.

    While it soaks, make a scraper from sheet brass, or by squashing a brass rifle case mouth closed and filing it into a sharp chisel shape.
    Also buy a brass "toothbrush".

    After soaking, apply more Kroil and use the brass scraper to scrap the crusty rust.
    Then give the entire area a brushing with the brass brush.

    After the rust is removed, wipe clean and apply a coat of CLP Breakfree.
    The CLP will prevent further rust, and will continue to "work" on any hidden rust.

    Unlike steel wool or other methods, this doesn't damage the remaining blue.
    After the rust is gone there will still be tiny pits and missing blue, and there's nothing that can be done about that except a full refinish.