Removing ejector on Howa 1500?

[timberelk]

I'm attempting to establish the correct bullet seating depth for my new howa 1500. Removing the firing pin was a piece of cake but I can't find any instructions on removing the ejector/extractor so that when I close my bolt I feel no resistance unless the bullet is seated to deep.

Does anyone have a video on how to remove the extractor/ejector?

 

[Canhunter35]

Why are you removing your firing pin and ejector to measure your coal to the lands?

 

[okie man]

It's the best way!best way too set your sizing die too

 

[timberelk]

It's the best way!best way too set your sizing die too

That's what I've been told...

 

[timberelk]

Why are you removing your firing pin and ejector to measure your coal to the lands?

How would you recommend establishing where the lands are?

 

[Canhunter35]

Take unprimed brass, cut the neck, load bullet of choice and load it. The rifling will push the bullet into the case, telling you distance to the lands.

 

[timberelk]

Take unprimed brass, cut the neck, load bullet of choice and load it. The rifling will push the bullet into the case, telling you distance to the lands.

I did a similar thing last night. I took once fired brass from my gun (still had the spent primer in) pinched the case mouth with the my fingers so I made the mouth slightly smaller so my bullet wouldn't slide in or out of the case mouth too easily.

Then I removed the firing pin, and chambered the dummy round. Did this twice with the same bullet and brass and it resulted in a reading of .324 and .325 when using a Hornady bullet comparator measuring tool.

But if the shoulders on my once fired brass are ranging by approx .001-.003 wouldn't that make the seating depth fluctuate by .001-.003?

But a few thousands shouldn't matter much because I was thinking of seating the bullet .020"-.025" or so off the lands for this Nosler BT bullet

But I was also thinking that measurement I got was with the bullet probably pushed into the lands a few thousands. That is why I would like to try to remove the extractor so I know when the bullet is contact the lands and when it is free by .001 or so

 

[Canhunter35]

If ur using a calliper and measuring off the tip, your bullets will fluctuate that much. Honestly, I wouldn't worry about it.

 

[timberelk]

If ur using a calliper and measuring off the tip, your bullets will fluctuate that much. Honestly, I wouldn't worry about it.

I am using a caliper and I'm using the Hornady comparator which measures off the olive of the bullet so I believe it gives me a more acurate measurement vs measuring off the tip of the bullet

 

[Canhunter35]

It would, but I think your measuring to tighter tolerances than needed. What bullet are you using?
Things such as leveling primer pockets, weight sorting brass, annealling the case necks, will affect consistency more than .001" bullet seating difference

 

[timberelk]

It would, but I think your measuring to tighter tolerances than needed. What bullet are you using?
Things such as leveling primer pockets, weight sorting brass, annealling the case necks, will affect consistency more than .001" bullet seating difference

I'm going to try shooting the Nosler 140 grain BT. This howa is a new rifle and I've only fired 10 round through it (all factory ammo) with cleaning between each shot per howa's recommendations


*Side Note* I am measuring with the primers in tack because I'm not sure how to remove the primer without realizing the brass. But I believe the primers are below the case head so I don't think it is a effecting my measurements. An to be honest I'm really only looking for .5mpa-1moa grouping with this hunting rifle. I may be going in to deep but I want to make sure everything is don't right to avoid as much damage as possible and increase my accuracy as much as possible

 

[Canhunter35]

Ballistic tips are not fussy about seating depth. If you have access to 400yds I would do a ladder test. .3-.5gr increments, find your node. Then play with your depth if not satisfied after that.

But you can measure yourself to death without gaining anything. If you're having trouble achieving accuracy then start trouble shooting. I've built sub Moa loads with ballistic tips without ever measuring the lands. I stuck them in at noslers seating depth, walked up in powder charge until it tightened up then done.

 

[timberelk]

I'm going to try shooting the Nosler 140 grain BT. This howa is a new rifle and I've only fired 10 round through it (all factory ammo) with cleaning between each shot per howa's recommendations


*Side Note* I am measuring with the primers in tack because I'm not sure how to remove the primer without realizing the brass. But I believe the primers are below the case head so I don't think it is a effecting my measurements. An to be honest I'm really only looking for .5mpa-1moa grouping with this hunting rifle. I may be going in to deep but I want to make sure everything is don't right to avoid as much damage as possible and increase my accuracy as much as possible

Ballistic tips are not fussy about seating depth. If you have access to 400yds I would do a ladder test. .3-.5gr increments, find your node. Then play with your depth if not satisfied after that.

But you can measure yourself to death without gaining anything. If you're having trouble achieving accuracy then start trouble shooting. I've built sub Moa loads with ballistic tips without ever measuring the lands. I stuck them in at noslers seating depth, walked up in powder charge until it tightened up then done.

Awesome, that sound easy enough. Thanks for the help!

One last question, when building up those sub MOA loads, did you bump the shoulder on the brass back a few thousands or did you just FL size it back to Sami specs?

 

[Canhunter35]

Full length sized it. Ive neck sized without bumping the shoulder and found zero accuracy difference. Now I just fl size it.

I've shot groups too to determine the nodes, but it's very easy to bugger up a shot and miss your node.