Recoil management-poor shooting

Lion Country Supply, has the Kick Killer Recoil Pad, leather,slip-on. Akton shock absorbing pad, like $34 bucks. Pretty nice and the leather keeps the rifle from hanging up on the hunting coat's shoulder material. Tikkas ain't as user friendly as a $2500 Cooper, so's they might need a bit of soft'N up.
 
Hi everyone, I need some help. I own among many other rifles of sako finnlight in 300 WSM. For the life of me I cannot sight it in anything better than a 3 inch group... Unfortunately, I have to admit this is due to my inability off managing the recoil and shooting it without a flinch. The gun is about 7 1/2 pound scoped and it beats me up bad. I also own a 9 pound 375H&H and I can shoot that one with no problem... This little WSM however just beats me. I'm planning to take this rifle for a mountain hunt this summer and I am wondering what should I do to properly sight it in? Would you have it threaded and use a muzzlebreak or a can? The problem is I detest muzzle breaks and a can make the gun rather unwieldy. Would you think sighting it in in a lead sled like device would be reasonable? I can shoot it for a couple rounds without the sled but then the wheels come off as it starts to beat me up, therefore I am unable to even sight it in right now.... Anyways, any suggestions are welcome and if you think it is best to thread it where would you have it done? I live in by the twin cities in MN.
Get you a EC tuner/brake , have your barrel threaded 5/8x24 for the tuner/brake, recoil and accuracy will change to make you happy , just use ear protection when shooting
 
I shoot a .300 WSM Mod 70 Winchester. I experienced similar problems. I had a brake installed and trigger adjusted. I was able to shoot 200 gr bullets with minimal discomfort . However, the next day I had a sore shoulder. I replaced the rather hard factory butt pad with a Limbsaver and that did the trick. If I had powder, primer and bullets, I could shoot the 200 gr bullets all day. I am now trying the 181 gr Hammer Hunter, with noticeably less recoil. Getting .5 moa groups with this bullet.
 
I shoot a .300 WSM Mod 70 Winchester. I experienced similar problems. I had a brake installed and trigger adjusted. I was able to shoot 200 gr bullets with minimal discomfort . However, the next day I had a sore shoulder. I replaced the rather hard factory butt pad with a Limbsaver and that did the trick. If I had powder, primer and bullets, I could shoot the 200 gr bullets all day. I am now trying the 181 gr Hammer Hunter, with noticeably less recoil. Getting .5 moa groups with this bullet.
Yup my original post I voted for the muzzle brake. But really I should of said the Sims Limbsaver first and then if needed the muzzle brake.
 
I have both a 270 WSM and a 300 WSM. The 270 is a Featherweight Model 70 Winchester. The 300 WSM is in a Ruger #1. I shoot 150 Nosler BT in the 270 at 3084 FPS. The Ruger is shooting 180 Nosler BT at 3058 FPS. I concur with the posts that using a lighter projectile will reduce felt recoil. In my 60+ years of shooting I sincerely believe that with todays projectiles available to reload with that somewhere between 2700 FPS and 3000 FPS is the sweet spot of the designed performance of the projectile. I would not worry about velocity as much as the rifles accuracy. It may be that your particular rifle performs best at a velocity below 300 FPS. That being said, a 1 minute group at 2800 FPS is a confident booster and knowing the trajectory of your rifle out to 600+ yards and practicing often will result in dead animals on a very regular basis. Good luck and enjoy the fun of working the kinks out of your excellent rifle.
 
Have a buddy load an empty or full chamber and pass you rifle. You'll loose flinch eventually.
This is actually a really good idea. Or focus on your squeeze as much as the target. If you're insisting on that particular shooting style, triggers and squeeze are a huge factor
 
Hi everyone, I need some help. I own among many other rifles of sako finnlight in 300 WSM. For the life of me I cannot sight it in anything better than a 3 inch group... Unfortunately, I have to admit this is due to my inability off managing the recoil and shooting it without a flinch. The gun is about 7 1/2 pound scoped and it beats me up bad. I also own a 9 pound 375H&H and I can shoot that one with no problem... This little WSM however just beats me. I'm planning to take this rifle for a mountain hunt this summer and I am wondering what should I do to properly sight it in? Would you have it threaded and use a muzzlebreak or a can? The problem is I detest muzzle breaks and a can make the gun rather unwieldy. Would you think sighting it in in a lead sled like device would be reasonable? I can shoot it for a couple rounds without the sled but then the wheels come off as it starts to beat me up, therefore I am unable to even sight it in right now.... Anyways, any suggestions are welcome and if you think it is best to thread it where would you have it done? I live in by the twin cities in MN.
I have owned and still own many rifles, Like you, I never witnessed the same type of recoil response I get with my Browning in 300WSM, I restocked it and put a nice Pad on it and it still rocked me while trying to shoot it from a rest. I put a muzzle brake on it and it changed from a nightmare rifle I was ready to get rid of, to a real go-to rifle for me. If you really hate brakes but just want to try it get a nice clamp on brake from Witt machine and see if getting it threaded etc. is worth it for you.
 
Recoil pads and brakes are both great ideas but if you can't soot the rifle then you won't have confidence or control. You owe it to yourself and the animals to use a rifle you know you can shoot well and have confidence with
 
I agree with the recoil pad and brake upgrades. You'd be amazed at what just a good pad will do. You can also get a Caldwell Field Shield Ambidextrous pad to wear on your shoulder for targeting. One thing about a good brake is that it can mitigate the jump which not only makes it nicer to shoot, but also gives you the ability to spot your shots. A good brake will surprise you with what it can do. APA or Painkiller to name two... My big 7 Allen Mag with the Painkiller brake seriously kicks less than an un-braked Creedmoor, which isn't much.
 
Wow. Literally takes gun "slinging" to another level ;) Just keep ahold of your bang stick after the shot or you might take "follow-through" to another level too. :) Interesting idea though.
I didn't know what to think of the idea at first when my partner came to me with it, but after experimenting with the concept I found that it really works, and has no detrimental effects either. It is simple and easy to use on most of the benches I have seen, and with every long gun I know of. If you only use it at the range to sight in your rifle you will be comfortable and able to concentrate on placing the shots, and confident it is sighted in. It really is a pleasant experience.
 
I didn't know what to think of the idea at first when my partner came to me with it, but after experimenting with the concept I found that it really works, and has no detrimental effects either. It is simple and easy to use on most of the benches I have seen, and with every long gun I know of. If you only use it at the range to sight in your rifle you will be comfortable and able to concentrate on placing the shots, and confident it is sighted in. It really is a pleasant experience.
Yeah it's ingenious for sure. After I joked about it, I thought it might have felt like mockery. I didn't intend it that way, so my apologies for my ill manners. The concept made me chuckle and it spilled into "ink". But you know, some of the most cost-effective and effective solutions are simple and readily available. I'm always impressed with what a practical imagination can come up with. When I was a little fella with no "natural" padding, I'd stuff rags under my shirt to shoot the big guns. :) Also, learning how to hold a rifle to the shoulder can help reduce the pain factor..
 
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