Recoil management-poor shooting

hello all
i use a steyer sm12 notmal weight in 300 wsm . i loaded 150 gr barnes tsx on top of hodgon superperformance . recoil isnt bad at all , of course a muzzlebreak would reduce it much but i feel i not need that and 150 grains barnes with 3362 fps (measured with labradar ) should suit most of game . and shoots really accurate .
 
Hi everyone, I need some help. I own among many other rifles of sako finnlight in 300 WSM. For the life of me I cannot sight it in anything better than a 3 inch group... Unfortunately, I have to admit this is due to my inability off managing the recoil and shooting it without a flinch. The gun is about 7 1/2 pound scoped and it beats me up bad. I also own a 9 pound 375H&H and I can shoot that one with no problem... This little WSM however just beats me. I'm planning to take this rifle for a mountain hunt this summer and I am wondering what should I do to properly sight it in? Would you have it threaded and use a muzzlebreak or a can? The problem is I detest muzzle breaks and a can make the gun rather unwieldy. Would you think sighting it in in a lead sled like device would be reasonable? I can shoot it for a couple rounds without the sled but then the wheels come off as it starts to beat me up, therefore I am unable to even sight it in right now.... Anyways, any suggestions are welcome and if you think it is best to thread it where would you have it done? I live in by the twin cities in MN.
Ftothhadd, I am so puzzled right now. I have a several rifles without a brake on them. between my two 270 wins and my two 270 WSM's the WSM's shoot soft with heavy slugs and nearly maxed out loads. I have shot many friend's 300 WSM's I own two 300 W/M's myself. the WSM shoots soft. what I can tell you is to find out of your have a length of pull suitable to your body. IF not then you need to add or subtract length to make it shoot as soft as I have experienced with my friend's 5.5 pound featherweight Winchester 70. I had a 270 winchester that did this exact same thing to me before adding 3/4" to the butt stock. it hammered my shoulder for all it was worth. after the additional length was added the 270 shot very soft.
as for a muzzle brake, you can go that route after making sure you have the correct length of pull. there are small brakes that do a wonderful job and do not make it anything but loud to shoot.
have a great one.
 
Hi everyone, I need some help. I own among many other rifles of sako finnlight in 300 WSM. For the life of me I cannot sight it in anything better than a 3 inch group... Unfortunately, I have to admit this is due to my inability off managing the recoil and shooting it without a flinch. The gun is about 7 1/2 pound scoped and it beats me up bad. I also own a 9 pound 375H&H and I can shoot that one with no problem... This little WSM however just beats me. I'm planning to take this rifle for a mountain hunt this summer and I am wondering what should I do to properly sight it in? Would you have it threaded and use a muzzlebreak or a can? The problem is I detest muzzle breaks and a can make the gun rather unwieldy. Would you think sighting it in in a lead sled like device would be reasonable? I can shoot it for a couple rounds without the sled but then the wheels come off as it starts to beat me up, therefore I am unable to even sight it in right now.... Anyways, any suggestions are welcome and if you think it is best to thread it where would you have it done? I live in by the twin cities in MN.
I have an option that a partner of mine and I made for just these situations, sighting in hard kicking rifles and shot guns.
Especially for the novice and those that are recoil sensitive.
You will be able to concentrate on placing the shot without worrying about recoil.
It will save wasting expensive ammunition and barrel wear too!
This is a simple nylon strap that absorbs the recoil just like tow straps for a vehicle.
It works best on a bench resting on a bipod or front bag, but can be used without a rest too.
Just attach the ends to the bench legs with the strap looped around the butt like in the photo.
QD buckles make it easy to adjust and there is a cross strap that makes a pocket to keep it on the the butt.
Pull the rifle into your shoulder applying tension on the strap, put it on target and press the trigger, simple as that!
It is simple, small enough to fit in your pocket, and can be used just about anywhere you can anchor it down, even in a hunting blind with some ingenuity.
It can be used for other things too, a hasty sling for carrying items, a pack strap, dragging deer out of the woods etc.
I would be glad to send one to you free of charge, just PM me with your shipping.
Please try it out and let everyone know what you think, in any event it will be yours free!

My name is Steve, I hope this is of some help to you or possibly others.

Here is what I am talking about:
Sling Shot 2a.jpg
Sling Shot 1a.jpg
Sling Shot 3a.jpg
 
1/2-28 might leave a thin barrel wall and a 5/8-24 might not leave enough shoulder to butt up against the muzzle brake. I make my own muzzle brakes and for thinner barrels I thread the barrels for 9/16-32 and the compromise usually works. Muzzle wall thickness is good and there is a good shoulder for the brake to butt up against.
 
I have an option that a partner of mine and I made for just these situations, sighting in hard kicking rifles and shot guns.
Especially for the novice and those that are recoil sensitive.
You will be able to concentrate on placing the shot without worrying about recoil.
It will save wasting expensive ammunition and barrel wear too!
This is a simple nylon strap that absorbs the recoil just like tow straps for a vehicle.
It works best on a bench resting on a bipod or front bag, but can be used without a rest too.
Just attach the ends to the bench legs with the strap looped around the butt like in the photo.
QD buckles make it easy to adjust and there is a cross strap that makes a pocket to keep it on the the butt.
Pull the rifle into your shoulder applying tension on the strap, put it on target and press the trigger, simple as that!
It is simple, small enough to fit in your pocket, and can be used just about anywhere you can anchor it down, even in a hunting blind with some ingenuity.
It can be used for other things too, a hasty sling for carrying items, a pack strap, dragging deer out of the woods etc.
I would be glad to send one to you free of charge, just PM me with your shipping.
Please try it out and let everyone know what you think, in any event it will be yours free!

My name is Steve, I hope this is of some help to you or possibly others.

Here is what I am talking about:View attachment 277395View attachment 277396View attachment 277397
OMG! That's quite the contraption to set up for hunting.
 
Shot placement is significantly more important than the caliber you are using in North America. Not so much in Africa for an elephant or Buff. As someone else said convert to a 280AI and Accubond bullets. A gentle 7mm combination which is a deadly combination and very pleasant to shoot all day
 
C&H Research in Lewis, KS makes a Mercury Recoil Suppressor goes in the stock under the recoil pad,different weights and lengths. installed one in a few too light rigs that burn 80-95gr powder, helps and few ounces additional weight is nothing on an elk rig. Beartooth Products comb raising kit,reduces felt recoil and improves shooting comfort. Protects the stock and shrinks group size for anything from 416 Rigby on down to the 300 Ultra Mag. Holds a few backup rounds too, excellent craftsmanship on a $24 thing that works. Good Luck!!
 
Hi everyone, I need some help. I own among many other rifles of sako finnlight in 300 WSM. For the life of me I cannot sight it in anything better than a 3 inch group... Unfortunately, I have to admit this is due to my inability off managing the recoil and shooting it without a flinch. The gun is about 7 1/2 pound scoped and it beats me up bad. I also own a 9 pound 375H&H and I can shoot that one with no problem... This little WSM however just beats me. I'm planning to take this rifle for a mountain hunt this summer and I am wondering what should I do to properly sight it in? Would you have it threaded and use a muzzlebreak or a can? The problem is I detest muzzle breaks and a can make the gun rather unwieldy. Would you think sighting it in in a lead sled like device would be reasonable? I can shoot it for a couple rounds without the sled but then the wheels come off as it starts to beat me up, therefore I am unable to even sight it in right now.... Anyways, any suggestions are welcome and if you think it is best to thread it where would you have it done? I live in by the twin cities in MN.
Sell it!!!! Sorry
 
My first heavy recoiling rifle (an 8lb. 338 Win Mag) was a big step up in recoil from previous rifles I had owned. It took me 7 trips to the range to get it dialed in. I stopped shooting it as soon as I felt the flinching starting. First few trips were only a couple of shots each.
Now it is no problem for 15-20 shots. Guess I got used to it. Be patient and persistent, it may just take some time for you to get used to it.
 
Sell it!!!! Sorry
AGREE with THIS ^^^ and said so,.. in Post #3 ! There ARE, lots of GOOD / Fun to shoot Cartridges, to choose from.
Tikka's, ARE,.. WONDERFUL, Light weight, Accurate, Rifles,. Just NOT, any "Fun" to shoot, IN,.. .300 or, .338 Mag's !
UNLESS,.. Weight added and,.. Braked
 
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YOU NEED MORE RECOIL PAD!!!!! Get a cushy LimbSaver Slip-On Recoil Pad. It will take a lot of the recoil out, so you can site the rile in. It will add a little bit to the length of pull though. Then you can decide to leave it on for the hunt or not. I would stay away from a lead sled or similar. the Limbsaver pad is a lot more cost effective too.
I shoot a lot of 300 WSM in a lighter rifle. So, i know where your coming from.

Pull the OEM recoil pad, it only takes a few seconds, and then slip the limbsaver on. That should keep your LOP the same or close.
Best Regards and God Bless, Col
 
I'd go with a muzzle brake. Unless your able to master this weapon during sighting in then IMO I **** sure wouldn't take it on a hunt.
 
I have an option that a partner of mine and I made for just these situations, sighting in hard kicking rifles and shot guns.
Especially for the novice and those that are recoil sensitive.
You will be able to concentrate on placing the shot without worrying about recoil.
It will save wasting expensive ammunition and barrel wear too!
This is a simple nylon strap that absorbs the recoil just like tow straps for a vehicle.
It works best on a bench resting on a bipod or front bag, but can be used without a rest too.
Just attach the ends to the bench legs with the strap looped around the butt like in the photo.
QD buckles make it easy to adjust and there is a cross strap that makes a pocket to keep it on the the butt.
Pull the rifle into your shoulder applying tension on the strap, put it on target and press the trigger, simple as that!
It is simple, small enough to fit in your pocket, and can be used just about anywhere you can anchor it down, even in a hunting blind with some ingenuity.
It can be used for other things too, a hasty sling for carrying items, a pack strap, dragging deer out of the woods etc.
I would be glad to send one to you free of charge, just PM me with your shipping.
Please try it out and let everyone know what you think, in any event it will be yours free!

My name is Steve, I hope this is of some help to you or possibly others.

Here is what I am talking about:View attachment 277395View attachment 277396View attachment 277397
Wow. Literally takes gun "slinging" to another level ;) Just keep ahold of your bang stick after the shot or you might take "follow-through" to another level too. :) Interesting idea though.
 

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