Recoil Bedding Attempt: Part Deux

I disagree with your analogy of using large pillars that conform to the action surface from real-world hands-on, experience in bedding all kinds of Remingtons with just brass tubing. I do my own machine work and have my own rifle range to 3oo yards. If a barrel is not shooting in the 2's and lower, it becomes a varmint hunting barrel. The larger pillars that are contoured to fit the actions are actually for marketing purposes and pride of ownership. The public's perception of what is needed is very often far from the truth, but if enough people repeat something, it becomes gospel Truth.

The 22 PPCs, 6 PPCs, and 6 BR's that I have bedded using just simple pillars from copper tubing have shot extremely well. My first 22 PPC was on a 40x, bedded in the Remington 40x BBR stock. On the first registered match, I shot with this 22 PPC, my agg for five- five-shot groups was .189 and the warm-up five-shot group was .069. The old German Gunsmith was well known for building benchrest rifles and no idiot.

We learned a long time ago, metal on metal produces strange harmonics(action resting on the pillar), so a tad bit of bedding material on top of a pillar should be protocol. Of course, the same thing applies to Al bedding blocks in stocks, but some will shoot very, very well in spite of no bedding. I bed every stock of mine that has a bedding block before I ever fire the first shot.

The Devcon product has varied so much in quality, I ditched the product for Grey Marine Tex, so have thousands of others.
 
Bedded my 7mm STW Remington Sendero last night. I'm amazed how clean some of yalls bedding jobs look. I did the all the steps and it still looks kinda janky.

A liquid release agent has nowhere to go when you load the action into the bedding mtl and it pools.
Use KIWI hard shoe polish or a liquid that dries very thin and you can buff; you can apply KIWI directly, then "polish" with a rag. After that I wipe a rag on a piece of the wax then polish the action a 2nd time with my finger tip in the rag. The release agent will be invisible if you polished it correctly.
For bedding I now use marine tex grey, way cheaper than devcon and has 13,000 compressive strength. WD-40 on a q tip does wonders to remove the squeeze out. The only place I use tape is at the tang.
The finish on your action plays a big part in the finish of your bedding as well. This is a Defiance, my factory Rem never had a shiny bedding job.

I did both of these this week.

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I think there's a difference as you get into the higher recoil rifles. What works with small cartridge, very low recoil benchrest rifles might be put to test with a light weight heavy recoil ( no brake ) hunting rifle. Lots of different practices that work but may not last
 
I disagree with your analogy of using large pillars that conform to the action surface from real-world hands-on, experience in bedding all kinds of Remingtons with just brass tubing. I do my own machine work and have my own rifle range to 3oo yards. If a barrel is not shooting in the 2's and lower, it becomes a varmint hunting barrel. The larger pillars that are contoured to fit the actions are actually for marketing purposes and pride of ownership. The public's perception of what is needed is very often far from the truth, but if enough people repeat something, it becomes gospel Truth.

The 22 PPCs, 6 PPCs, and 6 BR's that I have bedded using just simple pillars from copper tubing have shot extremely well. My first 22 PPC was on a 40x, bedded in the Remington 40x BBR stock. On the first registered match, I shot with this 22 PPC, my agg for five- five-shot groups was .189 and the warm-up five-shot group was .069. The old German Gunsmith was well known for building benchrest rifles and no idiot.

We learned a long time ago, metal on metal produces strange harmonics(action resting on the pillar), so a tad bit of bedding material on top of a pillar should be protocol. Of course, the same thing applies to Al bedding blocks in stocks, but some will shoot very, very well in spite of no bedding. I bed every stock of mine that has a bedding block before I ever fire the first shot.

The Devcon product has varied so much in quality, I ditched the product for Grey Marine Tex, so have thousands of others.
You have clearly found a method that works great for your use case. Like I am sure you will do, I would keep doing that. It is always good to get a selection of successful methods for people to consider employing for themselves. Congratulations on shooting some great scores. Those should definitely get you in the top 3 at pretty much any competitve shoot.
 
As you can imagine, Dean, I beat everyone by a considerable amount. If I had large pillars contoured to action dia, I would put a skim coat of bedding on top, as you said, then you are good to go in case some idiot puts a 100-inch pound torque wrench on the screws!

When you put a magnetic base on the barrel, with an indicator touching the stock, then loosen and tighten the front guard screw with no movement on the indicator dial, this is the "acid test" of your bedding method/results. This dispels the theory that liquid or spray-on-release agents should not work, but real-world testing says differently

A guy should tape off the bottom of the recoil lug or relieve it with a straight 1/8" Dremel carbide router bit that only cuts on the bottom(smooth on the sides)

The Wax method produces the most beautiful finishes, but I have seen a LOT of new guys have trouble with wax, no trouble with Brownell's Accra Release...none ever

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I have not bedded a rifle yet, but just watching vids and reading lots of material, what I notice and others have mentioned is not enough bedding material that will overflow out of the stock. That is the only only thing I can really suggest and maybe more prep work. I plan to try on my HMR in the next month, I get to see how much of a pain it is and hopefully I can improve my groups. The stress test, I would get an indicator with a magnetic base or devise a clamp around the barrel, then do what everyone has mentioned. I think you are doing just fine, perfection takes time and practice, so keep doing what you are doing and listen to those that have provided great advice.
 
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