Recoil Bedding; Attempt on HMR

[General RE LEE]

I took a swing at bedding the recoil lug on my Bergara HMR today. I used JB Weld and Imperial sizing die wax as the release agent. I taped the bottom of the lug only.

Can someone asses my lug recess? I pulled the barreled action after 6 hours to clean up the excess. It seems I probably tightened it up in there which would be a good thing.

Pics

 

[nksmfamjp]

I can't tell what im looking at exactly. It looks like you didn't have enough bedding compound, pulled it too early, not enough hardener, something. I think you could possibly use sizing wax, but it seems like drying wax would be much better.

Trying to keep bedding in a tiny spot seems like a good idea, but it is probably better to bed the whole thing and clean up afterwards. It is a big job, but worth it.

 

[zr600]

I did my hmr also. But I used marine Tex and bought the Brownells release agent. I also bedded the whole action. Inlet it cure for like 5-6 days.

 

[nealm66]

I use Hornady one shot lube. Just spray it on and seems to work pretty good for me. It looks like there's a weird little ridge that you may want to grind off behind the recess? Check to see if it rocks

 

[nealm66]

I use devcon. Can't remember which one

 

[General RE LEE]

I use Hornady one shot lube. Just spray it on and seems to work pretty good for me. It looks like there's a weird little ridge that you may want to grind off behind the recess? Check to see if it rocks

Sorry for the dumb question but how do you check to see if it rocks? Before torquing down action screws?

 

[Apex Custom Rifles]

While im sure its better than it was, I'de try again. Don't use blue tape, that's going to stick like it did. Try electrical tape. Add more epoxy in there and try to spread it when you mix it instead of stiring. This helps keep bubbles out of the mixture. Think of it like spreading peanut butter about 40-50 times over the same spot and scraping the bottom once in a while to make sure its well mixed.

Get a can of clear shoe polish and that lasts most guys forever. I've gone through several cans.

I did one of these for a friend, I was helping him with load development. We were getting random flyers. Just did the front and back because I told him ide do it for free. Much less work than a full properly done job. Took care of the fliers and it's actually an honest 1/2 MOA gun with some factory ammo he found that shoots well.

Good luck.

 

[General RE LEE]

While im sure its better than it was, I'de try again. Don't use blue tape, that's going to stick like it did. Try electrical tape. Add more epoxy in there and try to spread it when you mix it instead of stiring. This helps keep bubbles out of the mixture. Think of it like spreading peanut butter about 40-50 times over the same spot and scraping the bottom once in a while to make sure its well mixed.

Get a can of clear shoe polish and that lasts most guys forever. I've gone through several cans.

I did one of these for a friend, I was helping him with load development. We were getting random flyers. Just did the front and back because I told him ide do it for free. Much less work than a full properly done job. Took care of the fliers and it's actually an honest 1/2 MOA gun with some factory ammo he found that shoots well.

Good luck.

Thank you. I will try to sand it down and add more epoxy to the recess.

 

[nealm66]

Sorry for the dumb question but how do you check to see if it rocks? Before torquing down action screws?

Yes, before action screws. It should sit nice and flat with no high spot it can rock on. I've had to make a 1/8 " wide band of electrical tape around the tang to get one to lay flat and then bed again after I removed the tape. Hopefully you've got a dremel or similar. Like others have mentioned, I bed everything that should make contact and go a little thicker and just dremel off the excess. I'm definitely not a pro but I've screwed up enough times to qualify as amateur. I also lightly tighten the action screws and then tape tight and pull the action screws out. Definitely want to make sure the inside threads are clean of any bedding before assembly. I think the devcon I purchased cost about $100 but have done 5 or 6 and still have plenty left. Dremeling the excess wasn't too bad. I hate to say but I'd probably start over with yours just by the pictures but definitely more knowledgeable guys on here than me

 

[General RE LEE]

While im sure its better than it was, I'de try again. Don't use blue tape, that's going to stick like it did. Try electrical tape. Add more epoxy in there and try to spread it when you mix it instead of stiring. This helps keep bubbles out of the mixture. Think of it like spreading peanut butter about 40-50 times over the same spot and scraping the bottom once in a while to make sure its well mixed.

Get a can of clear shoe polish and that lasts most guys forever. I've gone through several cans.

I did one of these for a friend, I was helping him with load development. We were getting random flyers. Just did the front and back because I told him ide do it for free. Much less work than a full properly done job. Took care of the fliers and it's actually an honest 1/2 MOA gun with some factory ammo he found that shoots well.

Good luck.

I went back and tried to remove what was already in the recess. I went ahead and filled it up pretty good and reassembled the barreled action to the stock. I bet it's going to be in there right when I check in the morning lol.

 

[338 dude]

Thank you. I will try to sand it down and add more epoxy to the recess.

I use modeling clay in front of the recoil lug and build a dam to stop any flow forward. It will result in a cleaner looking job also clean up as best you can remove tape and add a second coat and redo what you have it will be just fine.

 

[General RE LEE]

I pulled barrel last night and added more epoxy to the lug recess channel. Now there is zero play forward and back when the barrel is in the action with the action screws removed. It's now a tight fit.

 

[RWE]

I look forward to hearing how the bedding worked out as far as your groups! Thanks for sharing!

 

[Hugnot]

Last pic reaffirms my belief in using JB weld as a bedding compound. Nice job! I assume that it was JB Weld Steel. I use Kiwi shoe polish as a release agent. One package of JB weld epoxy & hardener (2 tubes) is enough for most bedding jobs - cheap at less than $10. I have used JB Weld Steel at temps over 400 deg F to fix stuff and it has not failed.