Powder fouling from case lube?

[Snowbird]

has anyone here seen Hornady One Shot cause powder fouling? I admit there was liberal use of the "one shot" this round when sizing. I loaded a bunch of federal nickle brass and had to hit them again with the lube to run through my sizer. out of the 22 rounds shot today, 2 of them were squibs that went half distance and were noticeable audibly and by lack of recoil. so, i obviously need to change something up. should i start wiping them down and using a neck brush instead of spraying? any other ideas?

 

[MagnumManiac]

Never heard of your problem stemming from case lube, unless your primers were affected by the lube, I don't know the answer.
I use 100% bees wax, my family are aparists, so I have a fairly good supply of clean and pure bees wax.
Imperial case lube is very similar, ditch the spray lube and use wax, it's easier to apply and clean up.

Cheers.
gun)

 

[MudRunner2005]

I used to use the roll pad and RCBS case lube, but after a few months of that I swapped to the Imperial wax, and it is all I have used since.

 

[robert6715]

I always like to tumble in corn cob after sizing just to clean cases of lube & a cap full of mineral spirits added to the tumbler helps. Cant say for sure what caused your squibs, but oil based lube & powder dont mix.

Rob

 

[dig]

Question? Are you priming prior to lube and sizing. If you are using that much lube are you getting dented cases after resizing? One shot has worked fine for me on the smaller cases .223 etc. although not my favorite. I rinse in a little alcohol prior to load so get rid of residue as it will cause powder to coup in the case.

 

[SidecarFlip]

I used to use the roll pad and RCBS case lube, but after a few months of that I swapped to the Imperial wax, and it is all I have used since.

Not me, I stick with the pad. far as One Shot goes, relegate that crap to initial die lubing (after cleaning the bore). One shot is junk in my opinion.

My regimen (no matter what I lube with (and incidentally PAM cooking spray is as good as or better than One Shot and much cheaper) is, I run the cases through a wet tumble (stainless pins in my FA tumbler AFTER sizing,) not before.

I never clean a case before sizing other than wiping it off. I leave my decap stem in and size and decap and the clean....always.

The exception is a bulk brass run (like 223 cases from Wideners). They get a cob clean, then decap and size and then off to the wet tumble.

Wet tunbling eliminates entirely, the primer pocket fiddling issue. Why I like it.

 

[FearNoWind]

I use Imperial sizing wax so I don't worry about contamination. Obviously, you prefer the quicker "spray 'em all" method.
To protect against load contamination with spray lubricants I recommend:
1. Leave the primers in the fired cases
2. Clean and cases to remove any accumulation of dirt etc (doesn't take very long using a tumbler style cleaning process)
3. Place the cases, case mouth down, onto pegs mounted on a board (in stead of a typical multi-hole loading block or other similar method)
4. Spray the cases and allow them to rest for a time.
5. Wipe any excess lube off of the base of the cases ad proceed as usual
6. De-prime and size the cases
7. Prime and load .......

 

[450hunter]

If I don't use a little lube inside the necks of my cases, they want to hang up in my press. A couple of times it turned into a some what a major problem but I have never had a firing issue with mine.

 

[Snowbird]

I use Imperial sizing wax so I don't worry about contamination. Obviously, you prefer the quicker "spray 'em all" method.
To protect against load contamination with spray lubricants I recommend:
1. Leave the primers in the fired cases
2. Clean and cases to remove any accumulation of dirt etc (doesn't take very long using a tumbler style cleaning process)
3. Place the cases, case mouth down, onto pegs mounted on a board (in stead of a typical multi-hole loading block or other similar method)
4. Spray the cases and allow them to rest for a time.
5. Wipe any excess lube off of the base of the cases ad proceed as usual
6. De-prime and size the cases
7. Prime and load .......

The only real change, aside from a second spray, was removing spent primers before lube and sizing. Maybe I should change that.

 

[SidecarFlip]

One shot has it's place for convenience and quickness but thats about it. Like I said, PAM does the same thing as one shot and it's much cheaper....

No reason to clean your brass prior to sizing, the die is hardened inside anyway, much harder than soft brass (I wipe mine off prior to sizing, thats it).

On the subject of dies, I never run expander balls so neck deposits aren't an issue anyway. Expander balls are just working the brass more and decreasing case life... JMO......

and...... wet tumbling removes any residue INSIDE the case and neck rendering the inside as clean as the outside.

I haven't trimmed a case in years for case length....Why? Because the expander ball stays in the die box, where it belongs and I exclusively use bushing dies.

The only useful use I see for an expander ball is if the case mouth is deformed.....to make it concentric again. Thats it.

 

[KYpatriot]

Everyone i have talked to about stuck cases has been using one shot. Id ditch it and use the imperial. I just wipe off the cases with an old t shirt with alcohol on it.

All i takes is a tap of the index finger on the imperial wax, and aquick twist of the case between you thumb and finger at the shoulder and down the cases. Literally it takes me 2 secs per case, as I pick it up and set it in the press. It is just the thinnest smear on the case, hardly even visible, and doesnt have to be uniform or even cover the whole case.

 

[robert6715]

One shot has it's place for convenience and quickness but thats about it. Like I said, PAM does the same thing as one shot and it's much cheaper....

No reason to clean your brass prior to sizing, the die is hardened inside anyway, much harder than soft brass (I wipe mine off prior to sizing, thats it).

On the subject of dies, I never run expander balls so neck deposits aren't an issue anyway. Expander balls are just working the brass more and decreasing case life... JMO......

and...... wet tumbling removes any residue INSIDE the case and neck rendering the inside as clean as the outside.

I haven't trimmed a case in years for case length....Why? Because the expander ball stays in the die box, where it belongs and I exclusively use bushing dies.

The only useful use I see for an expander ball is if the case mouth is deformed.....to make it concentric again. Thats it.

For the new reloaders out there that are reading this, I want to make it clear that removing the expander from a standard die (non bushing) is a bad idea.

Removing the expander from a bushing die is standard practice.

Rob

 

[FearNoWind]

For the new reloaders out there that are reading this, I want to make it clear that removing the expander from a standard die (non bushing) is a bad idea.

Removing the expander from a bushing die is standard practice.

Rob

I disagree with you, Rob. I haven't used an expander ball in my resizing dies for many years; because they tend to work the brass too much. I simply use an expander mandrel to round out the necks of my cases before bullet seating. Using the expander mandrel in place of the expander ball provides a much better result.

 

[robert6715]

I disagree with you, Rob. I haven't used an expander ball in my resizing dies for many years; because they tend to work the brass too much. I simply use an expander mandrel to round out the necks of my cases before bullet seating. Using the expander mandrel in place of the expander ball provides a much better result.

But you are still expanding, just in a different step. I agree that using a mandrel die is better than draging the expander back thru the neck when sizing.

All I am trying to say is that to a new reloader who reads this, they might think that they should pull the expander out of their FL die & after sizing go straight to seating. Not a good idea in my opinion. Unless you are using a bushing die with proper bushing.

Rob