chickm1
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You need to load no more than 10 loads, of any given load, until you shoot it, and find the best group. After that, you can experiment with OAL.
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You need to load no more than 10 loads, of any given load, until you shoot it, and find the best group. After that, you can experiment with OAL.
ratrod54
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Have you looked at the brass for the rounds you shot? Did you have a sticky bolt when trying to eject the round? Primer flattened or cratered? If you're not showing pressure, you would be fine to move on to the next load.
If you don't mind, What's the jump between the load you last shot vs the next? (Hopefully you haven't already posted that. if so, sorry for asking again) As others have said, I've shown pressure way below max in a 300NM with one powder and back close to max on another. I've exceeded max in my 300WSM. So many variables. Pay attention to the feedback your rifle is giving you and you'll be fine.
Everyone has their own method for load testing. I've found that I start at the min and work up. My 6.5 has a sweet spot at 41.1 of H4350 but the velocity is lower than what most like. Probably wouldn't have found that node had I or started low. It will shoot sub 1/2 at 500yards all day.
If you don't mind, What's the jump between the load you last shot vs the next? (Hopefully you haven't already posted that. if so, sorry for asking again) As others have said, I've shown pressure way below max in a 300NM with one powder and back close to max on another. I've exceeded max in my 300WSM. So many variables. Pay attention to the feedback your rifle is giving you and you'll be fine.
Everyone has their own method for load testing. I've found that I start at the min and work up. My 6.5 has a sweet spot at 41.1 of H4350 but the velocity is lower than what most like. Probably wouldn't have found that node had I or started low. It will shoot sub 1/2 at 500yards all day.
milo-2
Well-Known Member
I said your post was idiotic, you called me an idiot. Good Job!
I did. Glad u caught that.
Forest, you show great wisdom and fortitude to admit such mistakes friends in person. To admit it internationally on the internet is..., well, I don't think I could have done that.
Anyways... couple of things: 1) don't use one manual, use them all. More info is better when making miniature bombs. 2) use a separate note pad to document your load developments for each firearm you are reloading for - even if you have multiple firearms shooting the same cartridge. 3) the more detailed your notes, the better off you are. 4) if it wasn't a "safe" piece of equipment, you probably wouldn't have found it for sale in a shop. Liability lawsuits took care of that back in the 80's & ****. 5) there are NO stupid questions when reloading. You can literally blow your face off doing it wrong.
Anyways... couple of things: 1) don't use one manual, use them all. More info is better when making miniature bombs. 2) use a separate note pad to document your load developments for each firearm you are reloading for - even if you have multiple firearms shooting the same cartridge. 3) the more detailed your notes, the better off you are. 4) if it wasn't a "safe" piece of equipment, you probably wouldn't have found it for sale in a shop. Liability lawsuits took care of that back in the 80's & ****. 5) there are NO stupid questions when reloading. You can literally blow your face off doing it wrong.
Max due to liability issues for the publisher are SAFE....and so are you....but don't exceed it...for now!
bassassassin104
Well-Known Member
As always, lots of good advice from the people here.
1. Take good notes during load development. Pay attention to bolt lift and inspect every piece of brass carefully. I have a separate notebook for each rifle. I could definitely do better myself though.
2. Always work up any time you change bullets, certain designs can show pressure much earlier than others.
3. The kinetic puller is safe, but they can damage tips. The ear plug in the bottom is a great suggestion. I have never used a different type of puller myself.
4. Pull a few bullets from what you have loaded and work back up to 47. There are lots of posts on LRH with great pictures to show what to look for.
5. Everyone has an opinion, some are better than others. Take them, analyze them, and make your own decisions.
I have loaded for several rifles chambered in 308 win. and Hodgdon Varget has worked very well for me.
1. Take good notes during load development. Pay attention to bolt lift and inspect every piece of brass carefully. I have a separate notebook for each rifle. I could definitely do better myself though.
2. Always work up any time you change bullets, certain designs can show pressure much earlier than others.
3. The kinetic puller is safe, but they can damage tips. The ear plug in the bottom is a great suggestion. I have never used a different type of puller myself.
4. Pull a few bullets from what you have loaded and work back up to 47. There are lots of posts on LRH with great pictures to show what to look for.
5. Everyone has an opinion, some are better than others. Take them, analyze them, and make your own decisions.
I have loaded for several rifles chambered in 308 win. and Hodgdon Varget has worked very well for me.
You are wise to ask questions like this and be cautious. Fortunately you really have to be off to have any major problems with ammunition you load.
****my biggest concern is you are using the Lee book to load the Hornady GMX bullet***
****A monolithic bullet like the GMX bullet is longer and will likely result in higher pressures than a lead core bullet they were using to test the load data for the lee manual.****
I'm guessing that 47 grains is over max. Monolithic bullets almost always have lower recommended max loads. I have the most recent Horandy book and could look up the recommend max load for the 165gr GMX with BLC2 powder if you don't have access to it.
I've pulled hundreds of bullets with a kinetic puller. They work and are safe as long as you aren't hitting the primer against something. If I'm just pulling one or two bullets then I find the kinetic puller is faster. You could pull 50 bullets with a kinetic puller but you would probably save an hour or possibly two hours of work if you use a collet puller.
I've loaded ammunition for over 20 rifles and have been doing it over 20 years and have never seen any serious overpressure signs at max load. This doesn't mean you won't have pressure issues at max recommend book pressures but it is very very unlikely. There are multiple minor changes in a cartridge that you load that can cause unsafe pressure. Different brass can have different case capacities. A heavier piece of brass likely has less case capacity than a thinner walled piece of brass and that heavier piece of brass with a thicker wall can actually be less safe around max loads. Shooting monolithic bullets like GMX or seating bullets "deeper" will result in less case capacity and higher pressures. Different lots of powder or primers can also result in different pressures.
Even though I doubt you will have any issues with the bullets you loaded, I would caution you against shooting them.
***Just because you don't have any issues with max Lee book loads with BLC2, doesn't mean you won't have issues with Lee book max loads for H4350 or Varget.***
****my biggest concern is you are using the Lee book to load the Hornady GMX bullet***
****A monolithic bullet like the GMX bullet is longer and will likely result in higher pressures than a lead core bullet they were using to test the load data for the lee manual.****
I'm guessing that 47 grains is over max. Monolithic bullets almost always have lower recommended max loads. I have the most recent Horandy book and could look up the recommend max load for the 165gr GMX with BLC2 powder if you don't have access to it.
I've pulled hundreds of bullets with a kinetic puller. They work and are safe as long as you aren't hitting the primer against something. If I'm just pulling one or two bullets then I find the kinetic puller is faster. You could pull 50 bullets with a kinetic puller but you would probably save an hour or possibly two hours of work if you use a collet puller.
I've loaded ammunition for over 20 rifles and have been doing it over 20 years and have never seen any serious overpressure signs at max load. This doesn't mean you won't have pressure issues at max recommend book pressures but it is very very unlikely. There are multiple minor changes in a cartridge that you load that can cause unsafe pressure. Different brass can have different case capacities. A heavier piece of brass likely has less case capacity than a thinner walled piece of brass and that heavier piece of brass with a thicker wall can actually be less safe around max loads. Shooting monolithic bullets like GMX or seating bullets "deeper" will result in less case capacity and higher pressures. Different lots of powder or primers can also result in different pressures.
Even though I doubt you will have any issues with the bullets you loaded, I would caution you against shooting them.
***Just because you don't have any issues with max Lee book loads with BLC2, doesn't mean you won't have issues with Lee book max loads for H4350 or Varget.***
Stgraves260
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All ways start low. Do a latter test it will save you a ton of frustration. Will save you a bit of money too.
Stgraves260
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Yes good advice. I try to all ways use the reloading book on the bullets I'm using. I shoot Berger and Hornady so I have a Berger and Hornady reloading book.
nicholasjohn
Well-Known Member
Actually, Sir, there IS such a thing as a dumb question ….. it's the one you didn't ask. Please don't ask me how I know this.
Stgraves260
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Look up ( Grip-N-Pull ) also. It's easy to use. I like it cause it does multiple calibers.
I just got done with mine for a .35 Remington took max -10% loaded three rounds. Add .2 to each set of three in total shot 36 rounds found two good groups one at 38.1 and one at 38.7 if that helps
thethirdpig
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Max can be ok. Do you know how to look for pressure signs? Do not shoot max in hot weather if they were tested in cool weather and showed no pressure signs.
