epoletna
Well-Known Member
Read (and appreciated) the whole thing. I'll go back and re-read later today. I've been salt bath annealing, and am thinking about $witching to an AMP. Not particularly happy about salt bath annealing.
My long winded thoughts on annealing
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ed209clark
Well-Known Member
I can't even find one for sale, looks like the are made in NZ? I've been using a gas AGS model and get good results but propane is a pain. Time to upgrade if I could find one…anyone have a lead on where to get one in a reasonable amount of time? Many thanks, Ed
xsn10s
Well-Known Member
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A calibrated induction forge would provide the most accurate, consistent results. But would be out reach for me. Or I couldn't justify it for ME. Maybe one of the $200 diy might be something I could do. For now a drill, socket, and propane torch will do. Ideal? Nope. But probably better than not annealing 5x's fired brass. I'd love to upgrade though!
ed209clark
Well-Known Member
The AGS one is less than 300$ On ebay has em they ship fast even though it's coming from Serbia. you will need a cheap power supply and of course a torch head of some kind and fuel.I know folks that have done some "interesting" stuff with camping stoves and a cordless drill but the consistency just isn't there, AGS is ok if you take the time to figure things out and compile the data.
I disagree, you can be very consistent with the drill, it's not hard to do at, folks just want to make it complicated for some odd reason, all of the OP's information is 100% correct but will mean absolutely nothing to 98% of folks here as they have no way to test bras or grain structure, so why make it hard and confusing? once again it's really easy to do and this is not the Bench Rest Central forking
Accuracyman
Active Member
Petey308 I appreciate you taking the time to post this informative information. It appears you have used every method with the exception of salt bath annealing. I went straight to induction annealing mainly because I didn't want open flames in my shop. I know people use them effectively but I prefer induction for safety and repeatability. I chose to build my unit instead of purchasing one to get familiar with the benefits and basically prove to myself it is worth the effort. I now believe the effort is justified and will probably invest in the AMP machine. I do recognize the effort these chaps have put into the research and design of their product.
I do recommend people who can, build an induction annealer to get their feet wet if they are not sure if the investment is worth it for them. Like Petey308 mentioned the Gina-Eric annealer has been built and used by a lot of reloaders successfully. Mine is similar to that one but is my own design. They work well and do not cost a lot.
The challenge with any method is getting your brass annealed properly. Not enough heat doesn't help and over annealing is worse. That is what sets the AMP machine apart from the rest. They have done the research!
I do recommend people who can, build an induction annealer to get their feet wet if they are not sure if the investment is worth it for them. Like Petey308 mentioned the Gina-Eric annealer has been built and used by a lot of reloaders successfully. Mine is similar to that one but is my own design. They work well and do not cost a lot.
The challenge with any method is getting your brass annealed properly. Not enough heat doesn't help and over annealing is worse. That is what sets the AMP machine apart from the rest. They have done the research!
Not so much to make ourselves FEEL BETTER Brother Bean, I just think if we couldn't get our daily doses of frustration from one thing...we gotta get it from another....or everyone would walk around Happy....can't have that....especially if you're a Psychiatrist!
pdshooter2
Well-Known Member
remembering this is a primarily a hunting site, annealing is a tool to better, more consistant ACCURACY. i anneal on an AMP all the time period. i shoot some long range, accurately. make your choices where you spend your money and time, but if i was on a once in a life time hunt, i would want to KNOW i had prepared all the right tools for the task.
ohh and he did say long winded..it was..but for a reason, facts, not just opinions.
ohh and he did say long winded..it was..but for a reason, facts, not just opinions.
NICE!!!! WHO DA MAN? YOU DA MAN!
I doubt many would debate that, although I'm sure there are a few that would debate anything given the chance. That said, other annealing methods/tools work with a good procedure, period.
A once in a lifetime hunt has a bigger chance of being ruined by bad luck, missed wind call, wrong elevation or a crappy load before the amount of anneal on your brass ever will IMO.
entoptics
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- 847
I built my own salt bath setup, and did some testing early on. A couple years down the road, and my mind has not changed. It works.
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I also have a hard time believing it can't achieve "full anneal" (is that even necessary?), or similar consistency to an AMP, Annealeez, or torch/socket.
I run mine at 540° C (removed thermostat from Lee pot), with a PID temp controller and thermocouple. That's 1004° F. The Draper Point (glow) is 525°C. I built a little depth control rack. I can run two pieces of belted mag brass at a time. (8 sec dip). My temp fluctuates ≤ 10°C. If it's really cold in the garage, I do sometimes have to pause for a minute or two after 30-40 cases to let it run back up 10°.
My setup was ~$100. That's 1/2 or 1/3 of the next cheapest option. It's near enough idiot proof (metronome app on phone for timing), and I can do 200 pieces of brass in less than a half hour.
The salt is a little scary I'll admit, but my depth rack serves as a lid, and I've never had an incident of any kind in several thousand anneals. Of course I wear leather gloves, long sleeves/pants, and safety glasses.
Salt Bath Annealing setup and quantitative assessment.
Just finished constructing and first testing of a salt bath annealing system. First post will just be the components and schematics for the rig I built. Second post on opinions of use and efficacy testing. Links are amazon, cause they’re easy to do. Shop for yourself. Prices are estimates for...
I also have a hard time believing it can't achieve "full anneal" (is that even necessary?), or similar consistency to an AMP, Annealeez, or torch/socket.
I run mine at 540° C (removed thermostat from Lee pot), with a PID temp controller and thermocouple. That's 1004° F. The Draper Point (glow) is 525°C. I built a little depth control rack. I can run two pieces of belted mag brass at a time. (8 sec dip). My temp fluctuates ≤ 10°C. If it's really cold in the garage, I do sometimes have to pause for a minute or two after 30-40 cases to let it run back up 10°.
My setup was ~$100. That's 1/2 or 1/3 of the next cheapest option. It's near enough idiot proof (metronome app on phone for timing), and I can do 200 pieces of brass in less than a half hour.
The salt is a little scary I'll admit, but my depth rack serves as a lid, and I've never had an incident of any kind in several thousand anneals. Of course I wear leather gloves, long sleeves/pants, and safety glasses.
ed209clark
Well-Known Member
You are right Bean, it's adequate and simple, I was talking about the camp stove modifications my buddy did lol, but it worked and he used what he, had so even better! The AGS is cost effective and pretty automated, a lot more expensive than my dewalt though, which I used before I bought the AGS, I've put thousands of rounds through the AGS. I'd get some tempil liquid (700-750deg) and paint the inside of a few cases to help you characterize the dwell with your setup. There are ways to test the insertion pressures and by association the neck tensions, but this is overkill for hunting not necessary unless you are (as mentioned, for f class) or a data junkie engineers like me, data is your friend but if you can keep it simple, keep it simple.
