Muzzle break info needed

[WildRose]

Guns are loud; even .22s. Don't make provisions for shooting without hearing protection.

They get a lot louder when most of the blast is directed back at the shooter instead of down range too.

 

[WildRose]

How can you keep things CONSISTENT WITH A UNSECURED SLED. Answer is you can't. So i disagree with that statement

There's an old thread on here somewhere, "How to manage recoil" or "Managing Recoil" you should dig up.

Many snipers use the "free recoil" method.

Consistency is attained by handling it the same shot after shot and there are many ways of managing recoil that produce consistency.

There's actually a chance of severely damaging your rifle and optics if the rifle is not allowed to move backward at all.

I once saw a USO broken in this manner and that's about the toughest scope ever built.

I've also seen scope ring mounting screws sheared off doing the same.

The energy of recoil is going somewhere.

 

[WildRose]

Yes, I cant help you on hearing loss or noise.....You gotta go with a suppressor for that and or good ear muffs.

I did ask and think about a change in barrel harmonics before I bought mine though, because I am also interested in accuracy.

What I planned and am working up is an integrated barrel tuner with brake. I think for smaller calibers say less than .30 you can probably go with the Eric Cortina tuner brake and be ok. For larger magnum rifles though recoil reduction has to be a big part of the answer?

Why? Because barrel harmonics and torsion are going to be worse in big magnums. So is human flinch.....So my approach has been get the best brake with most recoil reduction you can, combine it with a barrel tuner and you will have a more flinch free, small group experience.... But you do have to wear ear protection or just go to suppressor.

It is my belief that if you trade off noise for amount of recoil reduction, you are implicitly trading off accuracy too.
Lots of recoil but quiet muzzle blast is not going to result in small groups. Just my opinion.

Get the most recoil reduction you can if you can use earmuffs for noise control.....

I sure admit I dont like shooting benchrest next to a big .50 with muzzle brake, even with ear muffs.
Those rifles shake the whole shooting line.

No, I just use a Muzzle Break that doesn't redirect most of the blast back at me.

 

[WildRose]

if the sideports are shaped correctly you don't need top holes .
here is a 4 port beast. 338 lapua

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here is a early design muzzle brake and more , with top holes on my 300 wby. you can see the difference in the side hole shape .

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I shoot with a guy that has a terminator, the chassis gun in the pic . that brake blows back hard enough that it disturbs my labradar to the point it will not give a reading . I position the labradar over the front bell of the scope . so far that is the only brake that bothers the labradar in this position .

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one guy uses a bastard brake with 2 rows of top holes . this is the heaviest rifle out of our group , it's probably 25+ pounds . I don't have an opinion on it , one way or the other . it seems to do what it needs to do , and it can be shot through my labradar set up over the scope . another guy came with a savage with the factory brake . it only took a handful of shots and he had enough recoil, for the day . a week or two later he had a 5 port beast , he can shoot it now .

radial brakes blow to much dirt to be used on a prone rifle . this is a 7 rem mag

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this big radial brake doesn't reduce recoil as well as the 4 port beast .

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Shooting prone in sandy country into the wind a radial break can kick enough sand up to temporarily blind you. In the snow it can kick up enough to obscure your target as well and leave you wondering if you scored a clean hit or not.

For me side ports are the only reasonable answer for field shooting other than a suppressor.

 

[Veteran]

my 5 port beasts mbm are side ported only. I prefer two equal side ported models with no holes on top or bottom for better accuracy and less harmonics. Im shooting a 26 inch barrel, so they really dont disturb me much but arent canted back much towards me either

 

[6.5x300 WBY]

There's an old thread on here somewhere, "How to manage recoil" or "Managing Recoil" you should dig up.

Many snipers use the "free recoil" method.

Consistency is attained by handling it the same shot after shot and there are many ways of managing recoil that produce consistency.

There's actually a chance of severely damaging your rifle and optics if the rifle is not allowed to move backward at all.

I once saw a USO broken in this manner and that's about the toughest scope ever built.

I've also seen scope ring mounting screws sheared off doing the same.

The energy of recoil is going somewhere.

I understand everything you just said and agree totally. My use of consistency was based on another poster about muzzlebrakes testing and the sled used. That's all