Load development newb help

[bstomper]

I have been wanting to reload for some time now and have finally bit the bullet, pulled the trigger.....pun intended, on some reloading equipment. Press, dies, scale, case trimmer, tumbler, reloading manual, powder measurer.......All the stuff should be here by the end of the week. I have been researching the crap out of the subject but I still have a few questions on the load development process. Heres what I have:
Winchester Model 70, 7mm rem mag. twist rate is 1-9.25. Still has the manufactures plastic stock (and yes I know they are garbage) but I did glass bed the action. Spent cases are a mix of remmington, winchester and federal.
Now heres where I need some clarification. This is going to be a hunting round for moose elk and deer and I want something that will be good for longer ranges out to 1000yards (can't shoot that far yet but I want a bullet that can) so I have settled on giving the hornady 162gn sst or the 162gn eld-X a try.
First question is how do I settle on a powder from all them listed in the load data. I'm assuming part of it would depend on what is readily available to me, but how do I decide from there. Is there certain powders that preform better in the 7mm rem mag that others. Will I have to try out several different kind to find what works for my particular setup. I am more concerned about accuracy than top speeds, I can adjust for elevation.
2. Once I find out which powder to use, is there a rule of thumb as to where to start for the charge weight and what grain increments to jump up (.5gr or 1gr) for the next loads for testing.
3. Once I find my OCW do I then load bullets in a smaller gr incement such as a .1gr and retest until I am happy with the groups.
4. As a newb to this reloading thing I will follow the manual for the C.O.L of 3.290" but where does the seating depth come into play, that I keep reading about. Does it also increase accuracy.
5. Now to crimp or not to crimp. Do I have to crimp and what are the advantages and disadvantages.

Sorry for all the questions but I'm just trying to learn and couldn't find the answers.
Thanks in advance

 

[FearNoWind]

Remember - whatever you read on these forums represents only the opinions of those who contribute to your post. You'll usually get some good ideas. Sometimes not so good .......

Winchester Model 70, 7mm rem mag. twist rate is 1-9.25. Still has the manufactures plastic stock (and yes I know they are garbage) but I did glass bed the action.
Is yours the Super Grade, Sporter or ES?
Spent cases are a mix of remmington, winchester and federal.
For practicing purposes, I'd work with the Winchester and save the others.
Now here's where I need some clarification. This is going to be a hunting round for moose elk and deer and I want something that will be good for longer ranges out to 1000yards (can't shoot that far yet but I want a bullet that can) so I have settled on giving the hornady 162gn sst or the 162gn eld-X a try.
Measure your barrel length (front of recoil lug to muzzle) and see if you can give that to someone on the forum (along with your bullet data) who will run a QuickLoad analysis for you. They should be able to give you a MV node objective with the highest percentage of powder burn within safe load limits.
Even if you had to pay for the service it'd be worth it just for the savings in powder.
First question is how do I settle on a powder from all them listed in the load data. I'm assuming part of it would depend on what is readily available to me, but how do I decide from there. Is there certain powders that preform better in the 7mm rem mag that others. Will I have to try out several different kind to find what works for my particular setup. I am more concerned about accuracy than top speeds, I can adjust for elevation.
See previous response.
2. Once I find out which powder to use, is there a rule of thumb as to where to start for the charge weight and what grain increments to jump up (.5gr or 1gr) for the next loads for testing.
We all have our opinions on this subject. I would start with the mid-range load data recommended in the reloading manual and work up (I like .3 grain increments) to find the best performing load - staying well away from maximums. Then I'd compare it with Qucikload data to validate the range results. I worked up a load this week and the results suggested I was somewhere near a node. Quickload validated (within 5 fps) what I saw on target.
3. Once I find my OCW do I then load bullets in a smaller gr incement such as a .1gr and retest until I am happy with the groups.
Once I found your accuracy node the next step I'd take is using something similar to the Berger load testing routine (Getting the Best Precision and Accuracy from VLD Bullets in Your Rifle | Berger Bullets Blog ) which can be done using bullets other than Bergers. But I'd never start with jamming - just my own margin of safety. Plus, I've never found it necessary to "jam" any load to find a node that worked.
4. As a newb to this reloading thing I will follow the manual for the C.O.L of 3.290" but where does the seating depth come into play, that I keep reading about. Does it also increase accuracy.
Don't confuse COL with CBOL. You'll have better outcomes if you rely on CBOL. Seating depth effects accuracy. Whether or not it increases accuracy is relative to where you started. Using the information on the Berger ballistics
5. Now to crimp or not to crimp. Do I have to crimp and what are the advantages and disadvantages.
Unless there's some reason to expect your bullets will be moving in/out of their seated neck positions I don't see any reason to crimp anything. I don't know any serious hunter who crimps 7mm (except perhaps for a lever action)

 

[Jud96]

First off, I would read your loading manual and try to get another one if you can. The more books you have the more data available to you.

As far as powders, every cartridge has its list of powders that have the optimum burn rate for the round's diameter, case capacity, bullet weight, etc. Depending on what bullet weight and barrel length you have, you narrow down those pet powders until you find a few that give the optimum performance with the bullet you intend to shoot and the length of your barrel. Out of the handful of powders that will work, you have to find one or two that is readily available in your area. Since you want to shoot 162s and you most likely have a 26" barrel, look for H4831, H1000, IMR 7828, IMR 7977, RL-22, RL-23, RL-26. Any one of those should get you 3000+ fps and give you the accuracy you are looking for. Most of the time if you select anyone of the powders that are top performers in your given cartridge, you will find an accuracy node. Sometimes you may have to try a couple powders to get everything where you want.

For working up loads, try to find 2-3 sources and see what the starting load was for everyone of them. Most of the time they are very close, so you can start at the lowest suggested minimum or average the minimum loads and find your starting point. For a big magnum you can work up in 1gr increments until you find pressure and find your most accurate charges. Once you narrow down the most accurate loads with 1 grain increments, then you can further break them down in .2 or .5 grain charges. From there you will find the best node. In a magnum like a 7mmRM, 0.1gr is a very small percentage of the overall powder charge and often times does not change a whole lot, but you can try it if you choose to. If you are new to reloading and do not understand how to read pressure correctly, then do not exceed maximum book loads.

Seating depth has a lot to do with accuracy with certain style bullets. Tangent style ogives like found on most Sierra MatchKings and GameKings are generally not very seat length sensitive, but their Berger VLD counterparts are. I have heard mixed things on seat length with the new ELD-X bullets. Some guys are jumping them a good bit and others are close to the lands. I would measure your rifle's max O.A.L. then back off .020 and see if a round loaded that long will fit in the magazine. If it does fit then start there with your load development and if accuracy doesn't show, back off some more and try them .040 off and if that doesn't work try .060 off and so on. If your mag box won't allow you to feed shells loaded that long, then measure the box, subtract .010 or so for reliability and try them there.

Do not crimp. Crimping is only really needed in a semi auto, very hard recoiling rifles, or a tube magazine gun like a .30-30. Ammunition loaded without a crimp will be more consistent and accurate.

 

[jaeger19]

Some good advice here. I can remember when I started out. The first thing the reloading books said was "reloading is simple and easy" and then the next paragraph was how doing it wrong could kill you!
First. You might want to figure out what bullet you want to use. Personally I would avoid the sst...because I question it's ability to hold up against moose and elk. ( I have a load using them for my dad's 3006) they perform well for antelope but I would not use them for elk.
Then research 5 or 6 powders/loads. Personally I would pick powders that are readily available. Then I start midrange for each powder. Use the recommended seating depth. Primer etc. Only powder should very. After shooting your groups. Being sure to clean barrel between strings and cool barrell. Then see what powders the gun likes. Then pick the 2or3 tightest. And then ratchet loads up looking for signs of too high pressure. Sticky cases ... Primer changes iand indications of case separation.
Then pick best load at highest speed.
Then if you need a tighter group play with seating depth. But stay within recommended depths.

 

[bstomper]

Thanks guys that answers alot of questions. The missing info for the rifle is it's a sporter model with 26" barrel and is stainless steel, if that matters. I will do some checking on which powders are readily available and I'll check out the berger info.

 

[Dosh]

b, all good advise which should get you an accurate load. The major non-load area needing to be addressed is the black plastic stock, replace it. Carbon fiber, laminated or even walnut and bedded. Replacing the Tupperware and a good bedding will greatly improve accuracy of most rifles. If funds are limited, the laminate is an outstanding "bang for your buck" (there's that pun again). Personally I've seen a lot of elk and some deer taken with 168 Berger VLD and H1000 in several 7mm Rem rifles, it just seems to work well in this caliber and twist. Good luck

 

[FearNoWind]

Thanks guys that answers alot of questions. The missing info for the rifle is it's a sporter model with 26" barrel and is stainless steel, if that matters. I will do some checking on which powders are readily available and I'll check out the berger info.

I believe that's the Extreme Weather model 70. The factory stock on that rifle should be a Bell & Carlson that uses some proprietory "layup" (as opposed to injection molding) manufacturing processes and aluminum bedding block. That makes the stock weather proof, strong and stable. I wouldn't be in too great a hurry to replace that stock.
Not all synthetic stocks are inferior.

 

[bstomper]

Yes it is the extreme weather model. I am going to pick up a new stock eventualy. I really like the thumbhole stocks.
I already have a box of the hornady sst bullets and they have the knurled crimp area (for lack of better words) on them. Some of you say not to crimp and I don't want to if I don't have to. the question is, do I have to crimp these bullets or will they be ok if I just seat them to the correct depth.

 

[RockyMtnMT]

You do not have to crimp them.

I have never been a crimper, but recently have been doing some crimping. Only because our bullets don't have much baring surface contact on the case neck because of design. In compressed loads they are prone to pushing back out. I do not see any adverse accuracy results from crimping. That said it is one of those things that were commonly done years ago that has faded away. I have heard that some in the bench rest crowd are starting to crimp again for more consistent neck tension. If you do decide to crimp it is very important that your case length is the same on each piece of brass or the amount of crimp will vary.

The cannelure (groove around the bullet) is designed as a place for the case neck to crimp into without deforming the bullet.

Steve

 

[bstomper]

Thanks for the replies guys, this has helped answer alot of my questions. With the info I have gathered here and in my reserch I think I can give this a try.

 

[roninflag]

Re-26, WLRM primers, you pick the bullet. .030 off for lead, .050 off for mono. I use nosler brass for most of my 7mm rm

 

[bstomper]

Well I sized, deprimed, cleaned primer pockets, tumbled, and trimmed 500 casings this week end. I was actualy surprized that it went alot quicker than I thought it would. I'll be picking up some powder and primers this week and hope to start doing my load development. Will temperatures effect my result much. By the time I can get out the temps are supposed to drop to around -15 C (5 F). If I do my load development in these temps will that effect my results for summer shooting. Most of my hunting will be between 0 and -20C anyways.
I plan on finding my OAL for my cartrage for my specific rifle before I actualy start seating bullets. I guess if the OAL is longer than what my magazine is, I'll have to make them to fit my magazine. If not, how far should I keep the bullet from the lands.

 

[jaeger19]

Well I sized, deprimed, cleaned primer pockets, tumbled, and trimmed 500 casings this week end. I was actualy surprized that it went alot quicker than I thought it would. I'll be picking up some powder and primers this week and hope to start doing my load development. Will temperatures effect my result much. By the time I can get out the temps are supposed to drop to around -15 C (5 F). If I do my load development in these temps will that effect my results for summer shooting. Most of my hunting will be between 0 and -20C anyways.
I plan on finding my OAL for my cartrage for my specific rifle before I actualy start seating bullets. I guess if the OAL is longer than what my magazine is, I'll have to make them to fit my magazine. If not, how far should I keep the bullet from the lands.

Start with the oal recomended by hornady since thats the bullets you are using Its a good time to test your loads because some powders are more temp sensitive than others.

 

[roninflag]

Re-26, WLRM primers, you pick the bullet. .030 off for lead, .050 off for mono. I use nosler brass for most of my 7mm rm

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