Load Development for .357 Revolver

[G19Jeeper]

Not .357, actually its .45lc, but while we are talking wheel guns with cast bullets...I keep getting this ring from the seater stem (even without adding a crimp). Going to machine the sides a little tr try and take that edge out of the seat stem. It won't have an effect on performance, but its an OCD thing...

You should be able to get a seating stem that works better for big, fat flat nose bullets. My RCBS dies do that too on a lot of different bullets. I always figured a really good polish of the seating stem and knocking down the sharp edges of it would help immensely

 

[boston4]

Where are you in Ohio? I am N. Central.

Lancaster

 

[Fiftydriver]

Been down the center fire rifle rabbit hole for years. Just started reloading for a Smith & Wesson 686-4 in .357 mag. I topped the gun with a Burris 2 x 7 handgun scope. Using H110 and Hornady XTP in various weights. My COAL is 1.578. My first trip the range was promising.

Does the COAL factor on a revolver similar to a rifle?

I suspect I can adjust powder loads and shoot over a chronograph looking for velocity nodes.

Thoughts and suggestions ??

To get the best accuracy and consistency out of a revolver, you need to trim all your cases to the exact same length and you need to be crimping your ammo exactly the same. Even a 357 will have minute bullet creep under recoil which is one of the two main reasons you need to crimp. The other is to give some resistance so that you will get good consistent powder ignition. Without a crimp, the bullet will easily start to move in the cylinder just from the blast from the primer, especially if using a full charge that fills the case and using magnum primers. Key is to get powder ignited before bullet started moving. That will get you best consistency. I actually prefer H-LilGun in my magnum revolvers. Its much better over a wider range of working pressures where as H110 and Win296 really are best at the top 5% of their pressure working ranges and LilGun often matches velocities at a bit less pressure. Use it in the 357 mag, 44 mag, 45 colt, 454, 480, 50 AE and 500 JRH. H110 will make great loads in each of these but lilgun just does it easier And with more flexibility..

 

[Huckleberry75]

To get the best accuracy and consistency out of a revolver, you need to trim all your cases to the exact same length and you need to be crimping your ammo exactly the same. Even a 357 will have minute bullet creep under recoil which is one of the two main reasons you need to crimp. The other is to give some resistance so that you will get good consistent powder ignition. Without a crimp, the bullet will easily start to move in the cylinder just from the blast from the primer, especially if using a full charge that fills the case and using magnum primers. Key is to get powder ignited before bullet started moving. That will get you best consistency. I actually prefer H-LilGun in my magnum revolvers. Its much better over a wider range of working pressures where as H110 and Win296 really are best at the top 5% of their pressure working ranges and LilGun often matches velocities at a bit less pressure. Use it in the 357 mag, 44 mag, 45 colt, 454, 480, 50 AE and 500 JRH. H110 will make great loads in each of these but lilgun just does it easier And with more flexibility..

FYI, Bruno's has 1#, 4# and 8# jugs of Lil Gun in stock, as of 2 minutes ago

 

[Fiftydriver]

Not .357, actually its .45lc, but while we are talking wheel guns with cast bullets...I keep getting this ring from the seater stem (even without adding a crimp). Going to machine the sides a little tr try and take that edge out of the seat stem. It won't have an effect on performance, but its an OCD thing...

Need to have your seater machined wider for that bullet.