Load Development for .357 Revolver

I crimped about 20 rounds and went to the range. Group sizes are decent. 2.5 moa at 100. My dies are an old RCBS 3-die set designed for semi wad cutters. After I seat the bullet, I back the seating stem out then lower the die body to crimp the shell. Following the instructions. The crimping process seats the bullet a few thousandths further into the casing even with the seating stem backed way out.

What die set should I buy that will seat the bullet and crimp at the same time? Is this even an option? I am using Hornady XTP bullets.
There are two types of crimps, a roll crimp and a taper crimp. The most typical crimp can be done with standard dies. Then there is another die available called a taper crimp die commonly used on 45 acp loads, it seats the bullet via a seating stem and has a tapered bore that crimps with a taper and not a roll in crimp like is used in standard dies.
 
most of us cast bullet shooters simply use a washer when seating to back off the crimp then pull the washer/ back the seating stem up for the crimp. I hardly ever adjust a crimp die other than the seating stem. I don't like seating/crimping in one step on pistol as it's hard on the bullet. It can be done in one pass with jacketed, but I never do.
Good to know. Thanks for that tip. I have always just run it in a single pass.
 
Been down the center fire rifle rabbit hole for years. Just started reloading for a Smith & Wesson 686-4 in .357 mag. I topped the gun with a Burris 2 x 7 handgun scope. Using H110 and Hornady XTP in various weights. My COAL is 1.578. My first trip the range was promising.

Does the COAL factor on a revolver similar to a rifle?

I suspect I can adjust powder loads and shoot over a chronograph looking for velocity nodes.

Thoughts and suggestions ??
I just load to the cannelure and call it good, I didnt find it to matter much in revolvers. I did find with a 158 gr XTP and Win 296 (same as H110) that it actually liked the minimum load. I crimp separately on a Lee FCD. CCI Small Mag primers. Printed a nice little group at 10 yards with irons and its deadly on deer to 50 yards. According to hodgdons website, minimum charge was 15 and max of 16.7 gr. I loaded 5 rds of each going up in .4 gr increments. 15 gr was the best. I would definitely confirm it over a chrono, that will elimate as much human error.
 
Not .357, actually its .45lc, but while we are talking wheel guns with cast bullets...I keep getting this ring from the seater stem (even without adding a crimp). Going to machine the sides a little tr try and take that edge out of the seat stem. It won't have an effect on performance, but its an OCD thing...
 

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Not .357, actually its .45lc, but while we are talking wheel guns with cast bullets...I keep getting this ring from the seater stem (even without adding a crimp). Going to machine the sides a little tr try and take that edge out of the seat stem. It won't have an effect on performance, but its an OCD thing...
Yup, your bullet isn't fitting the seating stem well. a flat nosed stem may help with the wide metplat of that bullet or a modded/ custom stem. Have you tried a round nosed stem to see if it pushes on the edge without distorting the bullet?
A twist of steel wool sometimes cleans up mild seating marks on lead pills too but that looks pushed in a bit.
 
Yup, your bullet isn't fitting the seating stem well. a flat nosed stem may help with the wide metplat of that bullet or a modded/ custom stem. Have you tried a round nosed stem to see if it pushes on the edge without distorting the bullet?
A twist of steel wool sometimes cleans up mild seating marks on lead pills too but that looks pushed in a bit.
That is actually the SWC seat stem. Going to open it up to get meplate instead of ogive contact on the seating stem. Have not run the round nose stem.
 
You can lap it into a good fit as well. Grap a tube of valve lapping compound from autoparts store. Might need a jacketed bullet though. I have had that issue with pointy rifle bullets before leaving a ring or sticking. Tge lapping compound did the trick. Got a very good fit.
 
I was looking at some old chrono data back when I was trying H110 and Lil Gun on 170 grain for long range. So I went back to the Hodgdon Reloading site to verify what I had in my notes. Lil'Gun is pretty good stuff for heavies with a longer barrel. :)

Later I zoomed in A 300-MP
 
I was looking at some old chrono data back when I was trying H110 and Lil Gun on 170 grain for long range. So I went back to the Hodgdon Reloading site to verify what I had in my notes. Lil'Gun is pretty good stuff for heavies with a longer barrel. :)

Later I zoomed in A 300-MP
Yes it is. It's also really good for the 500S&W 500gr+ It's my goto powder. In most every revolver I have 3 loads. Full power heavy and light bullets and a light power target/practice load.
 
Adjust the die up and lower the seating stem to get the bullet seated to where you want it. Once the bullet is seated to your desired depth, run the seat stem up out of the way and start working the die down to set your crimp. Once you have the desired amount of crimp set, run your seating stem back down to firmly contact the top of the bullet when the ram is topped out and lock it down. Then you will seat and crimp in one motion. You shouldn't have to adjust the die up and down between seating and crimping. Those rcbs dies will do you just fine.

Does this make sense?
HB, It makes sense. Thank you for the replies.
 
Lee progressive all set up for .38/.357.
I have seen it rated over 600/hour.
 

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powder choice is plentiful , but try to find a bulkier choice to get a better case fill , h110

i have a little J frame , so i try to load everything in my bench on the lighter side , its way too snappy on even my ogre wrist when loading on the high side

if revolver , no need to cycle and action so you can run a starting
if loading a lever , barrel length may like a higher near max
 

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