levels for scopes good or better

I should mention the Vortex level I had trouble with was the cheaper model. I have one of the more expensive ones and it worked great and was more compact. How ever the cheaper one looks more rugged and gives you a bigger level to look at.
Yes that's one thing I'm worried about is the fit as far as my height in the scope I ordered one we'll see how it fits I appreciate the info
 
I have a Flatline Ops articulating level on my LR rifle and I love it. It's great because it folds out of the way so it won't get caught on stuff, but it's not cheap.


+1 on that. If I have to pay for a level, it will be Flatline Ops. I have the B-Square (I think), Vortex and a Holland. I stopped looking when I picked up a Flatline. As stated, they're expensive for a level but IMHO they are quite a bit better than anything else I've used.


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I'm not sure which level is on amazon but I don't have two levels the same and I've purchased the cheap($4) ebay levels from China and they work. They aren't precisely machined, but once you get them level, they hold. They're not a complicated thing. A bubble in liquid. I did notice in -20 the bubble does slow in movement because the liquid thickens but it works. Tubbs levels are nice. Really comes down to what you want to spend, they all do the same thing.
 
I'm not sure which level is on amazon but I don't have two levels the same and I've purchased the cheap($4) ebay levels from China and they work. They aren't precisely machined, but once you get them level, they hold. They're not a complicated thing. A bubble in liquid. I did notice in -20 the bubble does slow in movement because the liquid thickens but it works. Tubbs levels are nice. Really comes down to what you want to spend, they all do the same thing.
There is a difference in the precision of the vials and what they are filled with if you buy just the vials separate. There are precision ones and there are plastic ones. Not sure if more costly scope levels use the more precision ones or not though.
 
I went with the level integrated in the Hawkin's rings. I'm new to this using a level, I don't notice any issues whil carrying. I've glanced at it while target shooting. You definitely need to level to rifle and scope reticle.

F1B8B79D-3791-4FC9-B8AE-2F6231BE0DB8.jpeg


https://redhawkrifles.com/products/...-precision-ringsmountsrails/hawkins-precision
 
Maybe I'm the dunce in the class. I spend as little as possible to get the job done. Mine cost about $10. I make the level level with the reticle and then mount it on the rifle. Easier that way.
How do you know the reticle is level?
 
Can't the scope be level and be canted in the rings which would make the rifle canted?
You can know the reticle is level/plumb using a basic plumb bob. When your reticle is plumb, throw your bubble level on the scope if you want.

Once you have that basic step established, and if you're mildly serious about shooting, you will static mount the optic and check tracking. Not only that the turret adjustments are the correct magnitude, but the reticle subtends correctly, and that the reticle moves horizontal & vertical as it should.

From there, you can properly mount the optic to be plumb with gravity when the rifle is naturally connected to your body.
 
You can know the reticle is level/plumb using a basic plumb bob. When your reticle is plumb, throw your bubble level on the scope if you want.

Once you have that basic step established, and if you're mildly serious about shooting, you will static mount the optic and check tracking. Not only that the turret adjustments are the correct magnitude, but the reticle subtends correctly, and that the reticle moves horizontal & vertical as it should.

From there, you can properly mount the optic to be plumb with gravity when the rifle is naturally connected to your body.
I made a sight gauge to bring the horizontal in concert with the rifle and to make sure the scope is aligned vertical within the rings. Of course a well fitted stock should go into correct position when mounted. The rod goes across under the rifle and held with rubber bands. The hash marks are at scope level.
 

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