Levels: Checking&Using&Specs for scopes


Well-Known Member
Oct 4, 2002
I usually install a scope by leveling the rifle with a 6" level placed on the base. Hang the scope loose and line up the vert. hair on a colored line attached to a plumb-bob at 100yds BUT was curious about accuracy of my level.
I tested 3 levels, a 6" El Cheapo, a 6" Stanley and a 4' Stanley alum. framers level using an angle meter made by Central (used for setting up drivelines).
I found some interesting things: The El Cheapo and the 6" Stanley show dead-on (assuming the Central guage is accurate). The 4' was about 1/2 a degree off (again the assumption) but what I found most interesting was the tremendous sensitivity difference among the 3. When I moved the 6" Stanley 1 degree the bubble went clear off the scale, a 1/2 a degree even appears severe. The others gave obvious changes but not nearly as severe. This made me feel pretty good that this is the one that I have used for scopes, always fighting for that last nano-hair of level.
So what is level to you 1000yd pro's?
What edquipment you use?
Is your technique or method similar?
Hey Augustine,

I use a slightly different method that you may want to try. I find it very repeatable.

If you have a benchrest stock, or one that will stay put on a relatively hard surface, try leveling the table you place the rifle on, (this assumes you have the action straight up/dn in the stock) then look through your scope at a building somewhere. The building is your reference for the crosshairs to be plumbed to.

Be certain the scope is centered in both planes before you set it as the crosshairs will "bend" at the edges of adjustment.

After getting the scope square, CAREFULLY tighten the rings both sides simultaneously so as not to disturb the scope. Recheck till it's relatively tight, then finish torqueing the screws. I've had mine off my match gun countless times in the last year and it's dead on the money every time. Even worked after being rebarreled. I DO NOT resight the gun.
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