Is my Bergara Bergarbage?

Call Bergara and see what factory ammo they recommend see how it shoots with that. If it's not up to par I would call them and have it sent in. I have an hmr b14 6.5creedmoor it is plenty accurate, there customer service was very good for me too. I did have to send in my rifle too was gouging my brass. They had it only 2-2.5 and it was sent back didn't cost me a penny. Good luck I would call them and give them the chance to make it right. I know of 4 of these Guns that are accurate as any other factory rifle.
 
Guess I'll be watching this thread. Just got the same rifle in yesterday, Bergara B14 HMR Wilderness 300 WM. I plan on going to the range next and burn up some old factory ammo to check it out before reloading. I have new Norma brass, H1000, and Berger 215's to start my handloads on. Hopefully it goes better than the OP, 101stCurrahee.
 
I wouldn't even know how to load ammo with 200fps es. Normally my ladder test don't show 200fps. I would check the length of your chamber to the neck with a neck length tool. Easy to make one. See how long your chamber really is and trim brass according to that measurement. If your necks are touching At the front it can cause all kinds of erratic things to happen. Run factory ammo through your chrono to verify its acting right. 200fps is huge. Something big is happening somewhere.
Shep
 
First off, a load with a 200 fps ES is not the best way to judge rifle accuracy. You need to figure out what is causing the big variation. That said, factory ammo doesn't shoot well either so I would measure the ES on the Factory stuff too. If they are also very wide that will tell you a few things. Second, I have worked on quite a few Bergara and they are prone to multiple defects. In order, bedding is bad, glass or pillar bed to fix, Chamber issues, needs to go back for new barrel. The chamber issues are sometimes so bad you can actually see them on the once fired cases and or they show up in measuring the various critical points. Also check to see it has enough throat, short throated chambers have been an issue too. Crown issues and sundry feeding issues round out the common defects. Unfortunately the track record of the warranty depot for fixing these issues properly is very poor and Bergara won't pay for a qualified smith to fix them locally. The good news is, except for the ones with poorly made chambers, once bedded and crowned most of them shot really good. The feeding issues are usually not that hard to repair.

My personal opinion after experience with them and the very poor customer support, there are much better rifles in the same price range. Let us know what you find.

Thanks for the replies. I'm going to try and fill in the missing info.


That really sucks, and I'm guessing it's some sort of defect if you've noticed those issues.


Primers are CCI 250s. My muzzle velocities on my last test are:

76.8- 2783, 2956, 2898
77-2807, 2930,2898
77.2-2879, error, error
77.4-2923 ,2783, 2749

I started a ladder test at the lowest safe charge weight and increased until where I am now. 76.8 gave me the "best" group although it's still 1.5-1.7 on average. I stayed here and played with the 0.2 increments, but in either direction it's back to huge groups. I also tried backing down the other way a grain or two with the same results.

I can definitely start the ladder test all over, but I'm thinking it might be a waste of time given my last results.

I'm using a NightForce NX8 4-32, with NF rings, that was installed by a smith. It is not touching the barrel or mount.

I have tried doing these tests letting the barrel cool and not. Same results. I do not allow rounds to sit in a hot chamber.

I have let a buddy shoot it as well as using a sled to take out as much human error as possible.



I guess my next step is to go buy a box of quality 300WM, run it through the chrono and see what the results are.
 
Those velocities are all over the place. Check chrono. Brass trim length and powder scale. One of these is wrong.
As far as accuracy goes either change bullets or powder or both. Keep us posted. These are my favorite kind of threads. This is where we learn something. One time my scale started sticking in the middle giving me as much as 1 grain difference. I was lost to what was wrong with my gun till I figured it out. You can do it.
Shep
 
Step One check every fastener on the rifle.
Step Two check bedding.
Step Three buy a box of Federal Premium Terminal Ascent 300 Win Magnum
Step Four get a chronograph that is verified
Step Five clean bore to bare metal
Step Six put it on paper

Report back.
Will do. Isn't a free-floating barrel not bedded?
What do you mean by verified chronograph? throw out my pro chrono and buy a better one?
 
I think he means just make sure the chronograph is working correctly. Take something else along to shoot through it and see if it's reading right. Your action should be bedded. Bergara doesn't do the best bedding jobs. And could probably be done way nicer. But that is not causing the es issue.
Shep
 
Good to know, thanks. I'm curious though isn't bedding the barrel essentially using resin to mate it to the stock? Isn't having it free-floating better for consistent harmonic vibrations?
 
I am going to take back my statement about seating depth. One rifle I had hated having the bullets seated at the lands so much it caused crazy high es. Other than that I have never seen seating depth change velocity spreads by more than 30-40fps.
 
I've never saw 200 fps es. I have a prochrono. Make sure you have it far enough away from the muzzle. I keep mine about 35 ft away. The prochrono is probably like all other optical chronos, finicky depending on light. Late in the evening it can lie. It doesn't like being in the shade and can also lie early in the morning. Also, physically check your twist rate. Factory twist rates are notorious for being wrong and can be grossly wrong. 180gr accubond nosler loaded ammunition was the best shooting ammo bar non in my old 300 win mag. It was supposed to be 10 twist but was an 11 twist. The 208 eld has been the least finicky bullet I have ran in big 30 cals. Last bit of advice : big heavy 200 grain & up bullets in a sporter weight 300 win mag can be alot to manage & require perfect recoil management.
 
Good to know, thanks. I'm curious though isn't bedding the barrel essentially using resin to mate it to the stock? Isn't having it free-floating better for consistent harmonic vibrations?
Bedding is typically done in the action/recoil lug area only. Some do bed the barrel but for the most part that practice has gone to the wayside.
 
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